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The Sartorialist

 
 
 
 
 















Friday, September 29, 2006

Outside Jil Sander



I had the most interesting angle at the Jil Sander show.
As the girls walked out, they would hit a spot where they were perfectly lit from the front and back. If they had on a look with any movement it became really dramatic. I might play with them a bit and see if i come up with three or four goods ones.

What did you think of the Jil show?

October GQ and Links

This is one of the images from my first page in GQ.

Fabio Borrelli (in blue) was really cool and I loved that little tendency that he does with his collar stays - you have to read GQ to find-out what! it is!

Also, you guys asked for a link to my Style.com blog and to GQ so I have added them in the sidebar.

If I haven't already, I want to send a big public thanks to all the people at Style.com and GQ for their support. I have been overwhelmed by the amount of freedom and opportunities I have been given - they are working me hard but I love it!

Thanks guys!!

Thursday, September 28, 2006

Beppe Due

Master Sartorialist

Stefano Tonchi At Alberta Ferretti

Stefano always looks great

At Alberta Ferreti

Wednesday, September 27, 2006

The Sartorialist Is 1 Year Old!!

I just realized The Sartorialist is one year old!!!

I knew it was around this time but I didn't remember the exact date.

Thank you all so much for your support - I can't believe all that has happened in one year.

I'm so proud of the community I have built and that you all seem to understand exactly what this blog is all about.

I spend so much time alone that it still shocks me how many people know the blog and really like it. I have been working my ass off but i love it and your comments and input make it so worth while. Guess what, i have been invited to Hong Kong!! hopefully it will work for November and maybe GQ will spring for a pop over to Japan. - I haven't told GQ yet so if your reading this Adam guess what my next email will be about!

Thanks again guys, you cannot imagine how much I love writing this whike slightly buzzed on white wine in Milan after a full day of shows and great shots!

now back to work.

At Moschino - My shoot-out w/ Gilles Bensimon


If you notice, Gilles has a grey pencil in his breast pocket. I asked him why and he said because it is like the weather - grey and cloudy.

At Marni

Tuesday, September 26, 2006

Prada show

I just got back to the hotel after the Prada show - Well I can't wait to hear what you think
I'm not saying anything but i think once the photos are up it will make for very interesting conversation.

I can't decide if I think the feelings will be split or pretty much all one way.

I got great shots today at Marni, Moschino and Prada - if you get a chance say hi over at Style.com -

I miss all my great audience over there - i know it is a pain to register but I'd love to hear what shots you guys are liking. It is funny that i have become so addicted to shooting and posting - sometimes even though I'm exhausted I cant wait to get back and start working on the shots because i know you guys will like them. .


I have had a lot of great moments since I have been here. The best was at Burberry last night. i was going to take a shot of Carine Roitfeld but i was having problems focusing in such lowlight. She was losing patience but I could hear Fabien Baron whisper to her that I take good pictures - that really really made my day.

At Armani.......Beppe Modenese, Milano

Mr Modenese is one of my favorite guys to shoot in Milan - I can always count on him to look sharp at the shows.

On the Street.....Black Velvet, London

Monday, September 25, 2006

On the Street.....Via Montenapoleone, Milano

On the Street....... Grey Suit, London

Savile Row would be fine if it made more suits like this.

On the Street.......Belted Raincoat, London

On the Street......UPDATE Red dot dress, London

While I was editing other photos I re-looked at this one and noticed her mix of pearls and funky name-grill - perfectly playful.

Sunday, September 24, 2006

On the Street.......All 80's, London

I can't believe I'm old enough to say I remember selling this the first time around when I was a teenager working at Chess King!!

Saturday, September 23, 2006

At Dover Street Market

Comme Des Garçons just seems so right for London - more believable in London than New York. It seems to fit the personalities here better - a little intellectual and a little playful

One thing that I love about Comme (and Dries for that matter) is that it is more about an attitude than a body type so it fits many different body types very well.

The Sartorialist / Saks Fifth Avenue Windows and Events

I am so proud to announce that The Sartorialist is going to be featured in the windows of Saks Fifth Avenue in New York City from October 16th-23rd !!!

I just finished selecting the images before I left for Europe and I have to say I'm pretty excited. It is like my first retrospective. I tried to choose a really great mix of styles/ races/ages etc except it is all mens images which brings me to my next announcement.


Beginning in San Francisco on Saturday the 14th of October I will begin a series of events with Saks Fifth Avenue - a kind of "An Evening with The Sartorialist featuring....". The first in San Fran will Jean-Claude Colban of Charvet.

I will conduct a short interview with Jean-Claude, the audience can ask questions, and I will present Jean-Claude with questions that have been emailed to me before the event. Of course I will photograph the event and the (hopefully super-stylish) audience and will post the replies of Jean-Claude to the questions you have emailed.



The second event will be at Saks New York with Michael Bastian on Oct 17th.

Michael is very passionate about his work and his journey to his current position of hot(tie) New York menswear designer is actually quite interesting.
Again I hope we have a great turn out of The Sartorialist fans. I will announce any further events as they are confirmed.

If these events go well they could expand for the Spring and give me a chance to not only visit more stores but also to shoot for my blog in even more cities around the United States.

The Sartorialist on Style.com

I am in the airport now - only one and a half days in London. I got some great women's shots but the mens I have to hold onto for GQ.

I also just received the final list of show i will be attending in Milan and Paris
Wow, it is like my Christmas shopping list!

The good thing is that most of the show are either very early or later afternoon which gives me plenty of time to walk around the streets of both cities. I will also have a driver available sometimes which will make it easier.

I have to say I was so pleased with how many of the people I met in London already knew my blog. It is still crazy and great to be spotted while I'm shooting and have someone say hello or nice work.

I have to get my thoughts together but we have to talk about this whole Savile Row thing and what the future will bring to that famous street. I have to admit I'm not too misty eyed about seeing it evolve. The retail scene surrounding it is so dramatic that there is no excuse for them not to have anticipated rents rising. A few like Kilgour and Gieves have adjusted and new guys like Spencer Hart are making a name but is it too little too late?

Friday, September 22, 2006

On the Street.......Red dot dress, London

Just Arrived in London

The next three weeks I will be posting from the fashion capitals of Europe!

Wednesday, September 20, 2006

On The Street... Casual Chic

On The Street... Just Right

Her look was a mix of blue and black which some people think is taboo
It works for me

Tuesday, September 19, 2006

Backstage At Ralph Lauren

Outside Catherine Malandrino


Sorry for the late post - problem uploading photos this morning

Monday, September 18, 2006

Update from Style.com shot


After i posted this shot on Style.com, I was told that this gentleman is a quite the interesting character. Apparently he has several tattoos under his bespoke facade, is a big time surfer, was born in New York but works in the Far East because he speaks fluent Japanese. I will have to do a profile on this gentleman because he seems like just the kind of guy I would want to learn more about.

On The Street... The Buyers, Fifth Avenue

Just to bring the Robert Burke thing full circle - I was on Fifth last week and saw theses two young ladies exiting Bergdorf.
I asked to take their picture and asked they were in town for fashion week. They said yes and that they bought for a store in Moscow. "Do you work with Robert Burke?" I asked, they looked at me like I had three eyes. I knew Robert was working with someone there so I just guessed.
I love surprising people - I should have taken the photo right after mentioning Robert but that would not have been fair.

At the Tents.......Robert Burke

Robert always looks great.

His shirts fit perfectly with his initials very discreetly monogramed in red on the front. I asked him why he did this and he said it was to keep me from trying to steal his shirts from his dry cleaner.

I have an idea, if we all mail Robert one dollar maybe he will tell me the location of his secret shirt tailor outside Milan.

At the Tents.......All White


Wow!

Sunday, September 17, 2006

On The Steps.....Hamish Bowles


Love that pattern mix on the shirt and tie

At Rag & Bone

Saturday, September 16, 2006

All Giovanna All The Time!

What A Week!

What a week!
I hope you enjoyed the photos here and on Style.com - I loved that image of Lauren Hutton at Calvin Klein.
Working with only available light can be a challenge but the rewards can be so great.
I was disappointed I wasn't able to write more but I had to shoot all day, edit, color correct etc and load by by around midnight so by the time I had a chance to write I was exhausted. I fell asleep at my computer twice!

Besides most of the outfits were so well-executed that I didn't feel I could add much more.
In retrospect I feel they were a little too perfect - safe almost. I kept waiting for that one look that would really surprise me. With a more international audience for the European shows I think the mix of styles will be more dramatic in Milan and Paris plus I hope to get some good stuff my two days in London.

Anyway I know that the time difference while I'm in Europe will help give me that little extra time I need to completely mangle my thoughts in only a way I can do!

The highlight of the week for me was talking to Bruce Weber briefly before the Ralph show. He is really my only photographic influence. I saw sat behind Peter Lindbergh at the Donna show - that was cool.


By the way - my show-down with Anderson Cooper never happened.
I guess he was off doing something to save the world and with all the rain I didn't wear my suit anyway.
I really have to stop writing about myself. You cannot imagine how many people at the shows asked if I was wearing the Ralph or Marc stuff I wrote about. It was very rewarding though when they said I was the best-dressed photographer they had ever seen - I didn't remind them about Astaire in Funny Face!

New GQ

I just bought the October GQ with the debut of my page!!

If you are looking for it in the West Village, sorry, I think I bought them all

I love it

I can't wait to hear what you think

I just saw the final layout for the November page and it looks great.

This week I'm off to London for GQ before the women's shows in Milan and Paris.

Since I got a lot of practice shooting in the rain this week I'm all set for London.

Friday, September 15, 2006

At Calvin Klein

Thursday, September 14, 2006

At The Tents.......Pink Shoes


The look is basically updated Trad but when he added the pink shoes he really took it to a new place.

At Trovata


So is this look about her actual accessories or is it more about the bold shot of color they provide her look?

I think if you changed some of the design details on the bag or necklace it wouldn't really matter that much but if you changed or toned down the bold color they provide I think the overall look would be less dramatic.

Wednesday, September 13, 2006

At Marc by Marc Jacobs


I'm trying to figure out how to say how well done i think this is but it just keeps sounding dumb so I will stop typing now.

Labels:

Terron Schaefer of Saks Fifth Avenue



I really have to figure out how to shoot Terron folding his pocket square because it is a true sartorial art form.

Labels:

Sweet As The New Rebellion

Derek Lam Show


What did we think about the Derek Lam show?

I was slightly surpised by how much I liked it - he is always good but this was better than I expected.

Tuesday, September 12, 2006

At Proenza Schouler - Bold Women

Update - Everyone seems to love the woman in the top photo.
Her name is Giovanna Battaglia, fashion editor L'Uomo Vogue.
I have another shot of her at the Thom Browne show on Men.Style.com
Check the Saturday archive

Marc jacobs - Game Over, He is just That Good

How is Marc Jacobs that much better than everyone else?

He exaggerates proportion just enough, he layers without getting too heavy, and he makes complete looks. Every girl that comes out you really have to study for a few moments to see what is going on and yet it rarely seems like too much.

I'm curious to hear who you think can top him in New York this season.



ps add about two or three points to what you see in these photos because the actual colors of the clothing are even more lovely in real life.

Italian Television Interview


I was interviewed yesterday by Italian national news channel RA/1 for a Sunday morning fashion and lifestyle show that is covering New York fashion week.

Don't worry I'm not mentioning anything about dubbing this time!

Monday, September 11, 2006

At DKNY - Boys Brooks Brothers Jacket

I guessing that this is a Brooks Brothers sportcoat from the boys department.

I have seen a few young ladies do this before and it always looks great.

The proportion is spot on for this woman's body with just enough femme/masculine to be perfectly androgynous.

I think the Brooks Brothers boy's department is the last place for women to buy anything close to a Helmut Lang suit.

Sunday, September 10, 2006

I Rememeber 9/11

I remember 9/11 like it was yesterday.

I remember I was working on the the seating chart for James Coviello's fashion show which was the next day.

I remember a model telling one of the designers about the planes just as my phone rang and James told me about the planes and I looked down at my computer and the photos were on CNN.com.

I remember a few moments later walking up 7th Avenue towards James office. The streets were jammed packed with people walking up from downtown. It wasn't until that moment that I began to really realized how big this could get. The towers still hadn't fallen but you could just tell how bad this could end. After about one more block I turned and headed straight home.

I remember that even before I made it home I was quickly going into emergency mode. I needed to get cash, I need to get water, I needed to get canned goods. I have never been in a war or natural disaster but it is odd how clear the basics become when you are in that position.

I remember going into the nearby grocery store. It was packed with people and absolutely silent. no one was talking and no cell phones ringing because all phones were down. I remember there were so many people in there that no carts or hand baskets were available so people were packing groceries in empty shipping boxes and pushing them around the store with there feet because they were so overloaded with essentials. i remember seeing one guy buying only fruit and yogurt, that seemed like an odd strategy to me. When I got home one of my neighbors asked why I was buying so many groceries "because we are on an island" I said, the look on his faced changed and he walked away.

I remember being able to watch news coverage on tv and being able to look out my South facing window next to the tv and seeing the real scene. It was truly surreal.

I remember it was beautiful and sunny and it was that way for the next few days but all I wanted was for the rain to come and wash away the smoke and the smell.

I remember feeling so isolated because Manhattan is an island and it is tough to get off an island quickly especially with a two year old. By the same token, it is tough to get things onto an island so I really worried about if we would have enough food and supplies. The stores were picked clean and there was no telling how long it would take to restock.

I remember seeing the towers fall while watching tv but not understanding what I was seeing while it was happening. I didn't see it on the videos we all see now, I saw it from a video shot from a news helicopter above - the angle was so weird that it was hard to grasp what was happening.

I remember jogging from my apartment down to the WTC all that summer. I can still picture in my mind exactly how it looked down there and still when I walk down there I still expect to see the towers, Even more than missing the towers when I'm downtown I sometime think I will run over to the Borders bookstore that was at the base of WTc completely forgetting it is not there anymore.

Five years later I still remember everything about that day and I probably always will.

At Thom Browne - Bruno Danto - Editor in Chief, Vogue Hommes


I saw Bruno all over the mens shows in Europe during the summer but never got a really great shot of him. When he walked into Thom Browne I was not missing that opportunity again. Handsome Devil

Speaking of Thom Browne, I can't wait for the photos of his new collection to go up on Men.Style.com and hear what you think.

Also did most of you hear that Thom will be creating a small collection for Brooks Brothers? Apparently both mens and women's and at a higher price point than their usual collection but not as outrageous as Thom's signature collection.

I think it is great for Brooks Brothers and Thom. I hope they let Thom do what he feels is right but at the same time I hope they push him forward a little, I'm ready to be surprised again by what Thom is doing.
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