On the Street...English Rose of Brooklyn, London

On the Street....Just Off Savile Row, London

On the Street....Espadrilles, NYC

Espadrilles - I wore them in the 80's but not since.

Does anyone wear them anymore?

Am I missing out on a great Summer footwear option?

I just remember them falling off my foot all the time.

I think they look great in this photo and it makes me reconsider the concept but if I had to choose between my Converse and espadrilles I would still lean toward the Converse.

Help me out and let me hear the pro side to espadrilles.

Surprise!! Rain in London

Hopefully pictures starting tomorrow from not sunny London.

On the Street....Spring Flannels, NYC

A rare sighting of the "Spring flannel" was reported in West Chelsea recently.

Thought to be almost extinct, Spring flannel pants still make perfect sense in the unsettled weather of April and May.

On the Street...West 23rd, NYC

On the Street....The Sales Exec., NYC

Style Profile...Sohiny Das, New Delhi

Sohiny Das

Job?
I am a fashion designer and a freelance stylist, and I am trying to dabble in a bit of fashion journalism here in India.

Best Sartorial advice from your parents?
'Subtle is best'.

Style icons
No one in particular, but I admire many.

Describe your personal style
More like permutation and combination of limited items, and I try to wear them in a different way every time. I don't think much about what to wear..and that is why the result is a grunge-ethno-preppy mish mash.

I build my daily look around
My schedule for the day..generally a big bag with spare shoes and some make-up, just in case there's an unplanned change.

Personal Style quirk
Oversized items, and menswear.

Favorite designers
Madeline Vionnet, Nicholas Ghesquire, Issey Miyake, Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Anamika Khanna.

Most cherished item
A black dress by Ghost- it is a miracle versatile dress that was made for me- I believe.

I feel best wearing?
Anything loose and slouchy.

The first thing I look at in another Sartorialist's outfit ...
Combination and comfort level.

I always break this fashion rule.
Blend with the trend.

I never break this fashion rule.
Wear it with a sense of humor.

Never caught wearing?
I think I've worn them all...disaster or not.

Most underrated item in menswear/womenswear?
The plain-Jane grey/ black top that goes with everything, and can be teamed up in every possible way.

Dress to impress who?
The mirror, mostly. And my boss..sometimes. It helps.

Shine your own shoes?
No point when you are walking about in India.

Favorite stores?
Flea markets and vintage stores.

Your next "must have" purchase?
Orange Lipstick, and Yellow eyeshadow.

I only buy __________ in Europe.
Lots of jackets..when I lived there.

I skimp when buying ...
Everyday office-wear. No point, in this weather. And dust.

I splurge on.....
Quality inner wear. Very fussy.

Favorite item of clothing
Right now- tapered dark Indigo jeans..not very tight and with a front pleat. Casual, semi formal, dressy.

Guilty pleasure
No guilt in pleasures.

Cologne, skincare?
Dior Addict, Body Shop Tea Tree Range.

Most stylish city (Milan, Paris, London, New York, other)
I have only been to London among the ones mentioned...and yes, people there have very good aesthetics mostly. I like the result of the multicultural mix in the sensibilities, and the fact that the city has something for anyone-from anywhere.

When I was high school I wore?
My own creation- a disaster haircut, and mighty smug about it.

Sports?
Rowing, Badminton.

Favorite fashion magazine?
Spot and Street, Tank, ID..and I only saw a couple of issues of 'Rubbish'.

Favorite vacation spot?
Anywhere, as long as I am with my friends. If on my own, then London.

Favorite neighborhood restaurant?
Leopold's and Mondegar in Mumbai for relaxed unpretentious let-your-hair-down ambience.

On the Street...Black & White Spring p2, Manhattan

On the Street...Navy Trench, Paris

I hate that it's past Mid-May and I could still wear a great look like this in NYC right now.

On the Street...Dresses That (go to) Work, part 2

This whole look is made by the fact that it fits her sooo perfectly at the waist and ribcage.

click on the image for a larger (and better) view

A Closer Look

I am currently in full-on Spring shopping mode.

Whenever that happens I usually start the process by looking at my photos from the previous year and seeing what ideas I want to pull forward.

This time ,while I was reviewing old images, I found this side view of one of my favorite Summer shots.

Even though this is a simple look it's brilliantly executed and actually brings up several interesting issues regarding menswear.

First, the half-tuck shirt.
Very difficult to execute

Do you just tuck a tiny bit above the belt buckle?

Do you go for a full-frontal tuck as Mr. Cortina as done here?

I think that how the back of the shirt hangs in more important than the method of front tuckage. The length of the shirt has to be short enough so you dont have a ton of fabric folded up back there.
Polos are usually a safe option for the half-tuck.
In the Summer I will usually only do a half-tuck if I am wearing a jacket so only the front can be seen.
The half-tuck is undeniably comfortable and casual but loaded with so many obstacles.


Second, waistband rolling.
Apparently designers and manufactures think all men huge enormous butts.
I always have so much extra room in the back leg panel of my pants that it is really hard to make khakis look even remotely sexy.
I guess it is true that you never hear I guy asking "Do these Dockers make my butt look hot?"

When I have pants altered, the tailor will often bring up the back panels a little bit at the waistband in a similar way that he will remove a roll on the back of a sportcoat.

On a jacket it is called "dropping the collar" or ,in this situation, I guess it is called "dropping the waistband"

Again rolling the waistband is something i do often but only in the back half of the waistband and only when i am wearing a jacket or coat. (often the inner waistband fabric doesn't blend with the fashion fabric, so you would only want to roll the back half anyway)


Third, two inch pant cuff
Dramatic, formal and yet sporty.
The wider cuff just feels more sturdy than a standard cuff width.

Fourth, Italian pant length
I am sure it will change someday (thats fashion) but right at or slightly above the ankle still looks good to me, especially for casual Summer pants.


Fifth, those half-sock/footie things to wear with dress shoes in the Summer for a "no sock" look.
Personally most of the ones I have tried have been very flimsy and never work well.
This Summer I am going with Nike "no show" running socks or soft suede loafers that are much more comfortable to wear in the heat than hard leather shoes.


I bet you didn't think I could get five issues out of this look.

Next Week....London!

I understand that since London is in a different hemisphere than New York that it is already Summer in London!

I can't wait to shoot some of the famous London Sun Bunnies! or at least run into some of the Top Gear guys.

On the Street...Fifth Ave., Manhattan

A little Zoran, a little Chloe

On the Street...Horizontal Stripes for Spring

Style Profile...Michael Arenella

Michael Arenella

Job?
Musician, Singer, Orchestra Leader
(www.dreamlandorchestra.com)

Best Sartorial advice from your parents?
I went to Catholic School as a young boy, and on the "Out Of Uniform Day", my mom did me up right. She was very imaginative and tasteful, and showed me that color and panache could work on boys, too, and at no sacrifice to their toughness.

Style icons
Max Linder
(French silent film actor, 1883 - 1925, known as "The Man In The Silk Hat")
Harlem musicians in the '30s
Cary Grant

Describe your personal style
Jazz Age through French Resistance

I build my daily look around?
Where I'm playing that day or evening.

Personal Style quirk
I wear sock garters

Favorite designers
I’m into old stuff.

Most cherished item
My 1925 Studebaker

I feel best wearing?
Cap, goggles, gloves and a linen duster

I never break this fashion rule.
Tuck in your shirt

Never caught wearing?
Pajamas

Most underrated item in menswear/ womenswear?
Menswear- the hat
Women - the dress

Dress to impress who?
Nobody

Shine your own shoes?
Yes

Shoetrees?
Yes

Favorite stores?
Flea Markets and EBay

Your next "must have" purchase?
3-piece cream linen bespoke suit

I only buy __________ in Europe.
Cuban cigars

I splurge on.....
Dry cleaning

Favorite item of clothing
Straw Boater with a Chartreuse band

Guilty pleasure
Afternoon drinks

Cologne, skincare?
Bay Rum cologne, any brand

When I was high school I wore?
Khakis, Oxford shirts, canvas shoes

Favorite fashion magazine?
Apparel Arts
(Apparel Artists the de facto magazine of record for men's clothing in the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s)

Favorite vacation spot?
Canoeing the New York Harbor (really)

Favorite neighborhood restaurant?
Sam’s Restaurant and Pizzeria
238 Court St, Cobble Hill, Brooklyn
(between Baltic and Kane Sts, Cobble Hill, Brooklyn)

On the Street...Dresses That (go to) Work, part 1

Cantarelli Reversible Sportcoat

While I was at Pitti this past January was intrigued by this reversible sportcoat by Cantarelli.

I think it is in-store at Bergdorf and Neimans right now.

I'm still undecided about the concept of a reversible jacket but ,at least here, the execution of the jacket is very good.

Makes me seriously consider trying one out.

On the Street...Black & White Spring, Manhattan

From June GQ....Ivy League Style, Yale

Style Profile...Renata Molho, Milan

Renata Molho

Job?
Journalist/ writer

Best Sartorial advice from your parents?
Keep straight! Do not deceive yourself and: the material makes the　difference.

Style Icons?
Its difficult to say: from Jeanne Moreau or Juliette Greco to the simplest African or Indian woman met by hasard. If I have to choose one clear now is Jane Birkin.

Describe your personal style?
Emotional, eclectic, not conformist, displaced, stateless

I build my daily look around?
My mood

Personal Style quirks?
Instinct: it's like drawing or painting, if you have some material in front of you, you just put shapes and colors together and a sort of harmony comes out.

Most cherished item
Coats and pullovers!!!!!!

I feel best wearing?
Coats pullovers and special evening dress

The first thing I look at in another Sartorialist’s outfit ...
If it fits with the figure and the face… if its original to gain a place on the Sartorialist or because it responds to a sort of authentic eccentricity.

I always break this fashion rule.
Elegant- elegant
Beautiful- beautiful
Clever- clever etc.
I do not like symmetrical combinations.

I never break this fashion rule.
Not too many beautiful things together: one particular element and the rest must be something cooler, silent and respectful like a frame in a picture.

Never caught wearing?
Already Fashionable things, in the meaning of trendy.

Most underrated item in menswear/womenswear?
Gloves

Dress to impress who?
Myself: in the meaning that dressing for me is just a way to share the space with others, so sometimes I feel like giving a strong contribute to the picture, and sometimes I just need to be transparent, to pass through without making any noise. But it’s always referred to my mood in relation to the others.

Shine your own shoes?
Never

I skimp when buying ...
I do not know: I don’t have items, I have different periods: or I become mystic and don’t by anything or I buy everything I meet and I can afford.

I splurge on.....
Bags and jewels bijoux etc.

Guilty pleasure?
To buy two of what I like.

Cologne, skincare?
Mainly Clinique for the skin and Guerlain mixed with something else for perfume.

Most stylish city?
Berlin, Paris

When I was high school I wore?
Very conformist and bourgeoisie.

Sports?
Swim, tennis, playing cards.

Favorite vacation spots?
Instinctive answer: Istanbul, Terschelling(Holland), Ramatuelle, Baratti.

On the Street...Shiny Happy Models Wearing Hats, Uptown

On the Street....Yellows & Greys, Park Ave.

On the Street....Soho, NYC

On the Street....Twins, NYC

Style Profile...Dario Spadea Pandolfi, Milan

Dario Spadea Pandolfi

Job?
Cesare Attolini Executive

Best Sartorial advice from your parents?
My grand father and my father says always: “The elegance is something that must be whispered and not shouted…”

Style icons?
If in the past, men like Duke of Windsor, Cary Grant, Fred Astaire, the Kennedy or Giovanni Agnelli set the trands in matter of elegance. The trendsetters of today are the international designers and young actors and artists. Think about the architect Rem Koolhaas, or Jeremy Irons, mixed with the street rappers. Many of them are propositional toward a new and intelligent way of dressing that needs to be elaborated and customized in the details…and go on, the new dandy people like Manfredi Della Gherardesca or the young generation from good and noble family like Raphael Abascal Medina Duke of Feria who has attitude and elegance since they were born…or people from fashion system like Mario Sorrenti.

Describe your personal style
Sunglasses: Persol
Shirts: Cesare Attolini
Polo shirts: Lacoste
Knitwear: Cashmere made in Scotland
Denim jeans: Levi’s 501 col. White or denim.
Jacket: Cesare Attolini
Suit: Cesare Attolini
Watches: Omega or Swatch
Umbrella: Mario Talarico - Napoli
Gloves: Mario Portolano - Napoli
Shoes: Churc’s, John Lobb, Alden, Car shoes
Fashion shoes: YSL
Sport shoes: New Balance, Nike

I build my daily look around?
My humor

Personal Style quirk?
A touch of navy blue

Most cherished item?
Travel luggage set by Goyard – Paris

I feel best wearing?
A Cesare Attolini suit!

The first thing I look at in another Sartorialist?s outfit ...
How they match the colors and the proportion of the items they are wearing.

I always break this fashion rule.
The birth of fashion stylist and designers in the 80s and 90s had totally changed the way of thinking: Fashion shows started to set the rules, men became more “fashionist”. It’s not like that anymore. I seem to feel embarrassed in wearing fashion clothes; I claim my own role, reviving the value of men’s clothing embellished by personal researches, never banal nor ridiculous.
I don’t want to be fashionable; I want to be admired for my style…Sartorial and customized style!

Never caught wearing?
Short white socks!

Most underrated item in menswear/womenswear?
The socks!

Dress to impress who?
Nobody…myself!

Shine your own shoes?
Not often!

Shoetrees?
Round

Favorite stores?
Milan- Antonia Uomo
Riccione- Nick & Sons
Arezzo- Sugar
Tokyo- United Arrows
Paris- Old England & L'Éclaireur
NY- Bergdorf Goodman

Your next "must have" purchase?
Custom made sandals from Island of Capri

I skimp when buying ...
T-Shirts

Favorite item of clothing
Shoes

Guilty pleasure
Shoes and bags

Cologne, skincare?
Cologne:
Black Tie by Washington Tremlett
10 Capri by Carthusia
Caron Pour Homme by Caron

Skincare:
Nickel for Men – Manhattan/West Village NY
The Art of Shaving - NY

Most stylish city?
Paris, NY and Tokyo

When I was high school I wore?
Uniform…It was a Private Catholic School

Sports?
Equitation

Favorite fashion magazine?
L'UOMO VOGUE, POSH

Favorite vacation spot?
Island of Capri – Campania
Island of Salina -Sicily

Favorite neighborhood restaurant?
Milan:
Finger’s – Via Gerolamo Emiliani
Osteria La Voliera – Via Crema

On the Street...Cold Spring Layering, Manhattan

Style Profile...Julie Ragolia

Julie Ragolia

Job?
Fashion Director, CITY Magazine. Co-curator, Playground

Best Sartorial advice from your parents?
Always double check that your buttons are lined up correctly before leaving the house

Style Icons?
Bob Dylan, Alain Delon, Karl Lagerfeld

Describe your personal style?
Proper school marm meets early Rolling Stones

I build my daily look around...
The song usually stuck in my head when I wake up.

Personal Style quirks?
As much as I shop, I don’t like when my clothes feel too new

Most cherished item?
A Chanel black high-collared cropped jacket with extra-wide sleeves.
It’s perfectly elegant, but made of nylon so can just as easily crumple into a purse. Genius.

I feel best wearing?
My vintage boy’s tuxedo jacket. It’s as if it was perfectly tailored for my body.

The first thing I look at in another
Sartorialist’s outfit ...
Proportion and color scheme

Never caught wearing?
The season’s identifiable “it” item. I prefer understated designer luxury

Dress to impress who?
Myself. Admirers can only come after that.

Shine your own shoes?
Nope

Shoetrees?
No

Favorite stores?
Zero Maria Cornejo, IF, Martin Margiela

Your next "must have" purchase?
Martin Margiela padded shoulder blazer

I skimp when buying ...
Jeans – Cheap Mondays are my favorites

I splurge on.....
Shoes

Favorite item of clothing?
The perfect white t-shirt

Guilty pleasure?
Felt hats

Cologne, skincare?
La Labo, La Mer

When I was high school I wore?
A mix of everything: I was preppy, Goth, grunge and hip-hop at once

Sports?
Yoga

On the Street.... Headbands, West Village

Headbands...what a tough accessory.
When they are right, they are really right and when they are wrong you're Loverboy.

To me, the headband makes this whole look, makes it more slinky.

New Store....Leffot, Manhattan

Leffot is a Sartorialist footwear dream.
It has been a long time since I have been this excited about a new store in NYC.
Leffot is a perfect example of a store that not only carries great brands but offers a great edit of those brands.

Labels include -
Corthay
Church's
Gaziano & Girling
Artioli
Edward Green
Aubercy
JM Weston

Address -
Leffot
10 Christopher St.
NY, NY 10014
T 212.989.4577
W www.Leffot.com

On the Street...Cuffed Shorts, South of France

I have been seeing cuffed shorts slowly popping up on cool guys around the world.

This is one of the first examples ,that I have seen, where it looked so normal and not too fashiony.

I hate when my shorts flare out at the bottom and cuffing them is a good trick but it is one of those funny things about menswear - either you're a shorts cuffer or you're not.

I will have to give this careful consideration as summer is quickly approaching.

While I'm at it I will also ponder the pro's and con's of cuffing versus rolling my shorts.

If You Are In Indianapolis Tonight...

I will be speaking about my work at the Indianapolis Museum of Art at 7pm.

How Very "To Catch A Thief"

I saw this display in Paul Stuart on Tuesday and thought it was one of the best tied bandannas I had ever seen.

It instantly reminded me of Cary Grant in "To Catch A Thief" when he is wearing that navy striped knit.

I love how neatly the ends are finished so that they are barely visible.

Whenever i have tried to tie a bandanna like this I end up looking like a euro tourist or Roy Rogers.

I asked them to show me how they did this knot. It is actually a simple double knot but it is all about execution of the knot.

I was practicing it on my flight to Indy yesterday and found that it is easier if you leave one side a little longer when you do the first knot.

For me personally I would not wear the bandanna quite so close to my neck. Instead, this summer I see myself tying it a little looser, wearing it with a casual linen shirt and (in heat of Milan) dipping it in some water to keep me chillin' (for older Sartorialist - "chillin'" being the modern vernacular for maintaining a reasonable cool body temperature)

On the Street.... White Base for Color, Soho

On the Street.... The Italian Tie Knot, Hyeres

On the Street.... The Painter (as in Stage Sets), NYC