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This entire site ⓒ 2005-2011 The Sartorialist. All of the photographs herein, unless otherwise noted, are copyrighted by the photographer. No part of this site, or any of the content contained herein, may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without express permission of the copyright holder(s).
Sunday, January 31, 2010
On the Street.....The Ladies Sportcoat, NYC
I love seeing ladies wearing regular length sportcoats again. Please, no more of these tiny, short-waisted jackets that every corporate attorney wears. I saw a great women's jacket (a suit actually) at the Marc Jacobs show last night and it looked so fresh. It was a DB with deeeeep back vents (my passion) and a firm shoulder- I'll post a shot of it tonight.
A Graceful Man, A Gentleman
Thanks everyone for all your great suggestions on books about modern manners. I can't wait to get a few and brush up on a few things before my next big dinner party.
For me, this is blogging at it's best. Being able to create a community of individuals that share information and ideas that can make the community as a whole a better place. Thank you.
One of the things I mentioned yesterday, was the "manner" of a person. "Manner" or "grace" is not something that you can learn from a book. Unfortunately, it is something you just have to be or to develop.
A great scene of modern grace on '30 Rock' the other day:
Liz and Jack went out to dinner at a very chic restaurant. As they sat down at the table, Jack immediately moved the candle from the center of the setting to the side of the table. Liz looked at him kinda funny, not understanding why he did that but, not really caring either. Later, however, when Liz reached across the table to steal some of Jack's food (as she always does), she realized he moved the candle so her sleeve wouldn't catch fire when she reached across the table. Jack's manner and grace were so attuned to her as a friend, that he knew her moves before she did. That tiny gesture ended up becoming the pivotal moment of the episode and changed the course of their business relationship.
I'm telling you guys again, women notice the small stuff. They notice the gentleness/gentlemenliness more than if you use the right fork at dinner. I'm a very lucky man, Garance notices every little kindness I offer her, she doesn't miss a thing. Knowing that makes it so much more rewarding to do even more little things for her. I'll be honest, my biggest obsession in life right now is not better shoes, more suits or a bigger career but, to simply be a more graceful man for my graceful woman.
So women, in the spirit of grace, manner and Valentine's Day, take a moment and share with us men some of the little kindnesses that your man has done for you that made your heart flutter. Us men might learn something and you might gain an even more graceful man, a gentleman.
Editor's Note: For my gay readers, I can only write this as I know it, a man loving a woman. Don't let this keep you from joining the conversation. If you have tiny acts of kindness from a boyfriend to a boyfriend, or girlfriend to a girlfriend, please share with us!
Grace is Grace.
It doesn't matter who you're lovin', it's how you're lovin'!
For me, this is blogging at it's best. Being able to create a community of individuals that share information and ideas that can make the community as a whole a better place. Thank you.
One of the things I mentioned yesterday, was the "manner" of a person. "Manner" or "grace" is not something that you can learn from a book. Unfortunately, it is something you just have to be or to develop.
A great scene of modern grace on '30 Rock' the other day:
Liz and Jack went out to dinner at a very chic restaurant. As they sat down at the table, Jack immediately moved the candle from the center of the setting to the side of the table. Liz looked at him kinda funny, not understanding why he did that but, not really caring either. Later, however, when Liz reached across the table to steal some of Jack's food (as she always does), she realized he moved the candle so her sleeve wouldn't catch fire when she reached across the table. Jack's manner and grace were so attuned to her as a friend, that he knew her moves before she did. That tiny gesture ended up becoming the pivotal moment of the episode and changed the course of their business relationship.
I'm telling you guys again, women notice the small stuff. They notice the gentleness/gentlemenliness more than if you use the right fork at dinner. I'm a very lucky man, Garance notices every little kindness I offer her, she doesn't miss a thing. Knowing that makes it so much more rewarding to do even more little things for her. I'll be honest, my biggest obsession in life right now is not better shoes, more suits or a bigger career but, to simply be a more graceful man for my graceful woman.
So women, in the spirit of grace, manner and Valentine's Day, take a moment and share with us men some of the little kindnesses that your man has done for you that made your heart flutter. Us men might learn something and you might gain an even more graceful man, a gentleman.
Editor's Note: For my gay readers, I can only write this as I know it, a man loving a woman. Don't let this keep you from joining the conversation. If you have tiny acts of kindness from a boyfriend to a boyfriend, or girlfriend to a girlfriend, please share with us!
Grace is Grace.
It doesn't matter who you're lovin', it's how you're lovin'!
The McQueen Question.
So....now what?
I was talking to a retailer yesterday who said that her McQueen business was growing faster than it ever had before.
However, she sees no other option than to close the business of McQueen.
Who could take over? Should anyone takeover?
I'm sure Gucci has invested millions in this business but, this isn't the same as finding a replacement for an old house like YSL or Kenzo.
This is different, very different.
I think the closest correlation to this would have to be Moschino. And still after all these years, no one has been able to replace him, just a design team. Do we really want this to be the fate of McQueen's business?
I mean, come on, who could possibly keep the spirit of McQueen alive? He was so unique that his replacement could never get out of that shadow.
But again, Gucci has already spent millions and, in this economy, can anyone just walk away from a growing business?
So....now what?
I was talking to a retailer yesterday who said that her McQueen business was growing faster than it ever had before.
However, she sees no other option than to close the business of McQueen.
Who could take over? Should anyone takeover?
I'm sure Gucci has invested millions in this business but, this isn't the same as finding a replacement for an old house like YSL or Kenzo.
This is different, very different.
I think the closest correlation to this would have to be Moschino. And still after all these years, no one has been able to replace him, just a design team. Do we really want this to be the fate of McQueen's business?
I mean, come on, who could possibly keep the spirit of McQueen alive? He was so unique that his replacement could never get out of that shadow.
But again, Gucci has already spent millions and, in this economy, can anyone just walk away from a growing business?
So....now what?
Friday, January 29, 2010
Thursday, January 28, 2010
At Roberto Cavalli....The Fashion Journalist, Milan
I actually shot this in Milan a few days before I shot Kanye in Paris . Like any artist I follow my inspiration and lately I've been feeling for portraits. I think it started with that "Red on Red" portrait in Sydney. Right now I love the idea of a dramatic face surrounded by an equally dramatic fur...a very modern John Singer Sargent vibe. Regarding the Kanye shot. Yes, Kanye is having a tough time right now but I think that makes the portrait all the more moving.
For those of you that think the Kanye shot was a celebrity grab and a change in direction for the blog, go check the archives. I've shot Kanye about ten times over the last two years and his inclusion hasn't changed anything in this blog (if anything it enriches it with a wider stylistic offering).
Is Kanye a Sartorialist? Who is? I wrote in my book that I appreciate and relate to his struggles to find is own style vocabulary. Haven't we all gone through that? Am I a Yohji or an Armani was mine. I know Kanye a little bit and that portrait captures something in him I haven't seen before. Whether you like him or not is up to you. That shot is just a simple portrait of a man in a difficult moment in his life and as a artist I would be crazy not to react to that moment (especially if it falls within a mood I'm feeling). I love the contrast that these two portraits create. And lets be honest, we can't assume that this woman is any more or less refined or graceful than Kanye. I think the not really knowing makes portraits all the more fascinating
I wish I had more to say about this lovely woman but she spoke almost no English. My good friend Renata (who you'll see in another shot very soon) was the person who really helped make this shot happen. I love the calm poise of this shot even though there are about two hundred people right behind me moving out of a fashion show very very quickly.
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
On the Street.... So Much to See, Paris

Where to start?
- the "retro" extended shirt collar
- the 3-pc. suit worn without a hint of stuffiness
- the simple brown/grey color story
- the playfulness of purple socks
But the single most important element of this look!
- the masterfully/effortlessly rolled (almost punched) brim of his hat. Really, doesn't that one element of his look tell you everything you need to know about this gentleman?

On the Street....Alessandra, Milano
The thing with Alessandra is, when I think of how to describe her style I wouldn't use descriptions of her favorite colors, proportions or genres. I would have to use terms like sexy, approachable, androgynous, playful. Funny how someones personality can actually become their style. Sounds simply but it isn't.
















