Shopping Vintage @ Amarcord, Williamsburg, NYC

I love the idea of vintage and I love people with a great eye for wearing vintage, but personally, I just don't have the patience to shop at vintage stores.

Usually they are overstuffed and poorly edited, and once you find a piece you love, it is never in your size.

However, I popped into Amarcord in Williamsburg during the marathon on Sunday (no, I wasn't running), and I was pleasantly surprised at how beautifully the shop was presented--wonderful color stories and very well-edited. I've said it a million times: retail is all about edit and presentation. Vintage stores are not immune to this rule, and if they follow it, they soar over their competition.

Even without buying anything, I loved going through the racks and marveling at the colors, patterns, and texture play. These photos were not items I edited myself; this is exactly how I found them on the rack.

Amarcord has a few locations:

SoHo - 252 Lafayette St

Williamsburg - 223 Bedford Ave

Showroom and Archive (by appointment) - 242 Wythe Ave

On the Street.... Vintage Shirt, Florence

What a great way to make a 50 year old vintage shirt look so new and modern. So often vintage just screams VINTAGE! I think it is a real skill to integrate vintage into a look and keep the viewer guessing if it is a modern piece or very old. I think that is a subtle, but huge part of the success of Prada.

Survey Results - Women's

First of all, thanks again to all of you for your input.

I'm slightly surprised and proud that 45% percent of my audience is female and ,literally, from all around the world. (Except Montana?)

A few observations - by age.



14 - 19 years old - 17% of total women responding
Favorite Brands:
Marc by Marc Jacobs, Miu Miu, Stella McCartney, American Apparel

Favorite Magazine:
Vogue, Nylon, i-D, Paris Vogue

Favorite Stores:
Vintage, American Apparel, H&M, department stores
Do the department stores act as an early fashion school or museum?
One place to see a lot of brands at different price points and learn the scope of the fashion landscape?).
No one mentioned Gap.




20-24 years old - 33% of total women responding
Favorite Brands:
Marc Jacobs, Lanvin, Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten, Miu Miu, Chloe, APC

Favorite Magazine:
Vogue, Paris Vogue, Italian Vogue, Vanity Fair, Nylon, Numero, i-D

Favorite Stores:
Independent boutiques, designer-owned boutiques, vintage, fashion chains (J. Crew, Club Monaco, Banana Republic)




25-29 years old - 21% of total women responding
Favorite Brands:
Marc Jacobs, Chloe, Lanvin, Marni, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Chanel, YSL, Burberry
No Dolce& Gabbana - I knew I liked you people!

Favorite Magazine:
Vogue, Paris Vogue, Italian Vogue, foreign publications of Elle, W, Lucky, GQ?

Favorite Stores:
Independent boutiques, designer-owned boutiques, vintage, fashion chains ( J. Crew, Club Monaco, Banana Republic)




30-39 years old - 19% of total women responding
Favorite Brands:
Big on APC, Marc Jacobs, Prada, Marni, Dries Van Noten, smaller lesser known designer labels
Beginning to assert a more personal style?
Is APC the basic items that are used to highlight the more dramatic items from Marni, Jacobs, Prada, etc?

Favorite Magazine:
Vogue, interior design magazines, cooking magazines, Teen Vogue?

Favorite Stores:
No clear cut favorite stores, no department stores, even fewer responses to this question than the younger age groups




40-49+ years old - 10% of total women responding
Favorite Brands:
No clear-cut favorite, at this age are the women less influenced by designer direction and beginning to refine a more personal style?
The women that did have designer favorites tended toward to more avant-garde like Comme Des Garcon and Yohji

Favorite Magazine:
Several " I have given up all my subscriptions", again- are these women's more focused on creating their own style?

Favorite Stores:
All over the place - designer, vintage, department, discount, and chain stores.
Are the demands of family life more important than chasing a designer lifestyle?
I think maybe these women have developed a style and are less worried about where they buy the clothes that create this style.



Finally, everyone shops online but not usually for expensive clothes, more books, movie, and fashion chain stores like J. Crew.



Again thanks everyone,
Mens on Friday, by just overviewing I think we will see some interesting comparisons - especially 40+ men vs. 40+ women.

Now I'm off to the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Tonight Robert Burke is participating in a discussion on how the runway shows effect what people really wear. He is using some of my photographs to illustrate his points! I never thought I would have something, anything on a wall at The Met!

Jim Smiley Vintage Clothing Boutique

The first time I went into Jim Smiley's Vintage Boutique I started flipping through a rack of beautiful 50's ball gowns. From a nearby desk I heard a polite voice say "please handle the dresses by the hanger". I guess I heard what he said but it didn't really sink in so I kept flipping. A moment later a gentleman (Jim Smiley) came over and explained that the dresses were very fragile and he would appreciate if I handled the dresses by the hanger. Of course I was completely embarrassed and a little put-off but I quickly realized that he wasn't saying this to be pretentious or precious but because he truly respected and cared for his vintage collection.

The more I thought about this later the more I realized what a breathe of fresh air Jim brings to retail. When was the last time you were in Saks and you got the feeling the salesperson really respected the work that went into making the piece and its ultimate historical importance. It sounds weird, but tomorrows fashion history books will be filled with the work of todays Prada and Armani.

Though Jim's work must be difficult, I think it must also be a bit romantic - hunting through musty old attics for forgotten couture, hearing the stories about the people that owned the items originally and then ( hopefully) selling them to people that will care for them into the future.

Jim specializes in women's but is growing his mens offering (the cufflinks are a sight). Of course not all the items are hands off, so If you are in or plan to visit New York and love high-quality vintage I recommend a visit.

Alessandro's Retail Adventure in New York

The other day my friend Alessandro (whom you have seen in several shots from Milan and Florence) emailed to let me know he was in New York for a shopping/inspiration trip. He was looking for shops and brands that specialize in American classic style.

He had been to all the well-known shops like Odin, Melet Mercantile, Bergdorf Goodman, etc. However, he had missed some of the smaller, cool shops that are making New York one of the best menswear destinations in the world right now.

I offered to take him on the unofficial "Sartorialist-tour-of-cool-small-shops-specializing-in-classic-American-style-and-atmosphere" and made a few appointments. This was very spur-of-the-moment and is in no way a comprehensive selection, but with only two hours to show a super-chic visitor a few shops these are the places I made the priority.

I know Alessandro has a weakness for shoes so the first stop was Barker Black. Derrick just keeps evolving his American/English-inspired shoes, furnishing each with a sinister twist.

Barker Black

198b Elizabeth Street

212.966.2166

Next, we went around the block to Freemans Sporting Club. I think this was the shop that really wowed Alessandro. He loved the design of the space. I think he is very impressed at the American ability to take an unremarkable space and rebuild it with character; in this case, to look like an old dry goods shop that seemed to have occupied the space for over 100 years. Keith McNally does the same trick with Pastis, Balthazar, etc.

Freemans Sporting Club

8 Rivington Street

212.673.3209

I was going to take him to Leffot but he had already visited the day before, What he mentioned, though, was how funny it was to see Aldens done through the eyes of Americans. Right now Alden is one of the hottest brands in Italy and Japan but they are always bought with the unique perspective of buyers in each country. As I have mentioned before, Aldens here are way to clunky for my taste but I've seen them in Seoul, Milan, Florence and Japan and stores always seem to pick the perfect two or three styles that reflect the local taste.

(The one exception in the US is how J. Crew is buying Aldens right now. They're offering a very good selection.)

Leffot

10 Christopher Street

212.989.4577

So, instead of heading west we took Bowery uptown to the orginal Kiehl's on Third Ave. Very cool. Alessandro loved the Indian motorcycles that share the space with creams and lotions.

Kiehl's

109 3rd Ave

212.677.3171

Just down the block on 13th street is the new-ish vintage shop Stock Vintage. Another great location for product and layout.

Stock Vintage

143 East 13th Street

212.505.2505

Our last stop (again, we only had a very short time period) was Saturdays Surf. Alessandro got a kick out of the idea of city surfing.

Saturdays Surf

31 Crosby Street

212.966.7875

I wanted to take them to see Kirk at Miller's Oath but instead.....

Miller's Oath

510 Greenwich Street

212.219.9965

...I took Alessandro for a real American meal....fajitas and margaritas at Rocking Horse!!!

Rocking Horse

182 Eighth Ave

212.463.9511

He left for the airport very happy.

Alejandro & Mom, Vintage Photos

I love the idea of the contest, of sharing and being able to see other people's vintage photos. We tend so much to see fashion as something idealized and this really connects it with people's lives, it's great.

This a picture of my mother Willy van Rooy and me in Paris, I'm guessing the year must be 1970 or 71 at the most (I was born in 68). Apart from being an iconic model in the 60's and 70's who worked with the best photographers and designers, my mother was, and still is, a person with an amazing and very individual fashion sense (which later in life led her to become a successful fashion and shoe designer). I never remember her following fashion or buying clothes off-the-rack.

What I love about this picture is that it really shows her style, the mix of old-Hollywood glamour (the 30's vintage coat, the red lips, the short snake-skin jacket), with absolute freedom (the embroidered dress, the hand-made spanish boots, the Ibiza basket, the scarf and the flowing hair). And... don't I look like the cutest little hippie?

All the best,

Alejandro

Vintage Photos

Vintage photographs are going to start up again tomorrow!

The submissions have been amazing and I'm really excited to be posting them for you.


If you missed my initial post, here are the instructions again.

- The subject line of the email should read "Vintage Photo"

- The photos will only be posted here on the blog, so the file size can be very small (no bigger than 700kb). I DO NOT need hi-res images, they take too long to download.

- Writing a little something about the image you send will make your entry much more interesting for all of us.

- Email your photos to: sartorialistvintagephotos@gmail.com

Vintage Photos Return!

I am a big fan of both your blogs. I am Alexandra, french but living in Germany, Berlin since 2000.

It was quite difficult to make a decision on which photo I should send you because I have several which could be perfect for the contest.

The one enclosed is from my grand-parents. "Biarritz_1936" They lived normally in Reims, north-east from France.

This photo was taken just before the war in 1936 in Biarritz. They are on their honeymoon. I like this photo a lot because they just feel happy and they look incredibly elegant and stylish even if they are at the sea... it would never happen nowdays ! My grand-father was half english and until his death very elegant, a real gentlman. I also like the contrast of the perfect hair for my grand-father and the wind blowing through the hair of my grand-mother.

Until their death, they had 6 children and about 35 grandchildren... they were very important to me and my family, and were very implicated in helping others who needed it.

I could not resist sending you a photo of them both in Bandol on the same vacation because I find them so beautiful even though they are just wearing the minimum: a swinsuit. The photo reminds me a little bit of Man Ray photo.

Best,

Alexandra H.

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Remember those great vintage photo posts we were doing back in the spring?

Let's start that up again!

Below are the details.

- The subject line of the email should read "Vintage Photo Contest"

- The photos will only be posted here on the blog, so the file size can be very small (no bigger than 700kb). I DO NOT need hi-res images, they take too long to download.

- Writing a little something about the image you send will make your entry much more interesting for all of us.

- Email your photos to: sartorialistvintagephotos@gmail.com

On the Street..... Swede Vintage, Sodermalm, Stockholm

I love how this gentleman has really used vintage to play with proportions - baggy pants, tiny jacket and yet it doesn't have that slightly "musty" feel that a lot of vintage looks have.

Jim Thompson, Designer of Three Over One, Sydney

Describe the Three Over One brand…
Three Over One is influenced by a British working man’s wardrobe from the 1930’s and 40’s and vintage American sportswear. The collection has a rugged and relaxed elegance with an appreciation of the attitudes, style, quality and workmanship of the past. 

Why pleated denim?
I like to wear high waisted pleated pants as I guess I am somewhat nostalgic in my style, looking back to a time when I feel that men dressed more elegantly.

From a design standpoint, I incorporated these pants into my line because I wanted to revisit classic work wear styles (the pleat front detailing and the relaxed high waisted silhouette came from a 1930’s vintage naval pant) but execute them in a more modern way (hence using a lightweight denim fabric).

Describe "Sydney Style"
Relaxed, laid back and never taking itself too seriously.

The OZ style currently has what I would best describe as an “80’s electro in the sun, mixed with gothic rock” vibe. This look includes the skinny jeans in very distressed rip and repair finishes, oversized tees with bold simple graphics, short vintage board shorts and of course the obligatory Havaianas thongs with injections of strong bright color throughout.

Is there an Australian Style Icon?
For me it has to be Errol Flynn.

What inspires design in Sydney?
Sydney style is heavily influenced by the warm climate and living by the ocean. This results in a more relaxed, colorful and laidback style, that has an emphasis on casual wear.

What country has the biggest design influence on Australian designers?
I feel a strong influence from the US, in both culture and design.

Are there any American brands you are into?
I really like what Adam Kimmel, Band of Outsiders and Engineered Garments are doing. The mixture of heritage styling and modern design really appeals to me.

On The Street... Vintage Guy, New York

Usually I'm not a big fan of looks that are too vintage but this look is just modern enough. I guess the only super vintage element is the color but even that is a nice break from downtown black and charcoal.

On The Street.....Vintage Biker

I was a little surprised by how many of the survey responders mentioned that they shop a lot on Ebay.
For a guy like this, Ebay has been a dream - he told me that the original '20's golf pants with original paper tags still attached were from Ebay. Tall socks (hard to find?, apparently) are also a treasured find on Ebay. I knew this guy was really living the dream when, as we spoke, he took out paper and rolled his own cigarette (cigarette?, yeah , pretty sure).
New York magazine is doing a piece on people who are really into vintage and this gentleman is in it - I can't wait to read it. The only thing that is unsettling about the "vintage lovers" is that they are so often overboard - The music, the furniture, the clothes. For me, what would have made this outfit better, would be if he was listening to Kayne West on his tweed covered iPod.

Style Profile.....Derrick Miller, Barker Black

For The Sartorialist, I have profiled several Italian gentlemen that have grown up with elegant dressing as part of their molecular structure. Now, finally, I have found an American with the same kind of sartorial DNA. Derrick Miller, the creative director of Barker Black, recently told me about growing up with a true Sartorialist as a father. Derrick's father, an artist in Minnesota, still changes his outfit three times a day. When he began research for the revamp of Barker Black, Derrick went straight to his Dads closet for inspiration. The Sartorialist asked Derrick a few questions about his personal style, and his Dad seemed like a good place to start.


Best Sartorial advice from your Dad ?
The idea of self-expression through clothing, using pattern and texture to create an individual look and style.

I only buy __________ in Europe.
Umbrellas (England)

You build your daily look around your ?
Now it is shoes (for obvious reasons), it used to be my socks!

The first thing I look at in another Sartorialist’s outfit ...
Fit of coat and shoes are always first.

I skimp when buying ...
Food.....so I can afford the tailor!

I splurge on.....
having a good tailor.

I always break this fashion rule.
Argyle socks and pinstripes

I never break this fashion rule.
Tie must always have a dimple and end at the belt line.

Must have item for Fall 2006
Barker Black shoes and ties....oh, and a great Filson bag.

Favorite store
Eral 55 in Milan...Genius!
Old English meets the Old West on Corso Como

Style icons
My Dad, Fred Astaire, Pharrell Williams

Most cherished item
Bull Dog cufflinks and tie pin from my amazing girlfriend, Jennifer.

Favorite item of clothing
Vintage custom suit purchased at the Salvation Army for $12.99
(Derrick is wearing the suit in the picture above)

Guilty pleasure
Action movies and the NFL....Sunday morning series A soccer from Italy

Describe your personal style
Sophisticated, with a touch of fuck you.

You feel best wearing?
A custom suit with high armholes, and vintage Barbera khakis

Personal Style quirk
Bright socks and pocket squares...oh, and my vintage welding glasses.

Dress to impress who?
I dress to express, not impress

Most underrated item in menswear
A beautiful pair of braces and a brilliant umbrella

Most stylish city (Milan, Paris, London, New York, other)
Antwerp.....everyone there is cool.

Never caught wearing?
A suit or sportcoat that is too long; I wore hand-me-downs while growing up, and it is now my pet peeve.

When I was high school I wore?
One pair of jeans and hand-me-down Savile Row custom shirts of my Dads

Shine your own shoes?
Always!

Sports?
Soccer, is there anything else?

Favorite fashion magazine?
Italian Vogue, Japanese GQ, and W

Cologne, skincare?
Bond 06....The one that smells like musk and coffee.

Totally Modern Vintage

I really like it when someone can put together a look made totally of vintage pieces and still make it look totally modern.
Again ,back to fabric weight, the only way I knew it was vintage was by the obvious weight of the cloth on both the coat and pants.

Wrist Management

Why are cufflinks so hard to find?

They are always so over-the-top!

Today's cufflinks often lack a sense of elegance. It’s as if they need to justify their price by shouting, "We're here!". Someone once said, "If you notice a man's cufflinks, then they are too loud".

That's why I was so happy, when I stumbled upon a great collection of cufflinks at LEO Design, in the West Village. I have been patronizing the store for years, but I never noticed the array of cufflinks. Basically, all pieces are vintage and priced very reasonably (not inexpensive- but appropriate for their quality and vintage).

The buyer is passionate about his selection and can share dates and design details.

Check them out here:
LEO Design
413 Bleecker St., New York, NY 10014
nr. 11th St.
212-929-8466

Vintage Photos

This picture is my grandmother's friend Joy

arriving at the Canoe Lake Station in 1948.

-- Paige

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If you missed my initial post, here are the instructions again.

- The subject line of the email should read "Vintage Photo"

- The photos will only be posted here on the blog, so the file size can be very small (no bigger than 700kb). I DO NOT need hi-res images, they take too long to download.

- Writing a little something about the image you send will make your entry much more interesting for all of us.

- Email your photos to: sartorialistvintagephotos@gmail.com

On the Street....Everyday Couture, Sydney

Vintage lingerie is still easily available at most good vintage shops. It is always shocking to me the level of handwork that use to go into ,basically, everyday underwear.


For our lingerie experts

Do you think this is just a design detail or a very elaborate mending job?


When I was in college I learned a lot of couture sewing techniques. If I had ever turned in a garment with the hand-stitching so visible ,as the garment above, I would had gotten an F!

However, the fact that you can see the hand-stitching in a garment like this is what makes it so charming and romantic.

Big Man Walking, Vintage Photo Contest

Here's a photo of my boyfriend's grandfather Papa Joe, who just had his 80th birthday last month. Papa Joe is such a generous, open-minded, and most humorous person. I've known him for many years and look up to him as my second dad. Papa Joe loves golfing everyday and stays very healthy. My favorite thing he does is when he twists his huge oversized vintage red diamond ring on his finger (which he won from a poker game when he was young) when he tells us a story; and he always ends the story in an unexpected humorous way. He used to sew and he still has his sewing machine in his room. Last month I stumbled across some photos on his sewing/computer table and was surprised to see this side of him. I totally fell in love with this photo and I am so glad I could share this with my favorite fashion blog. I love how he layered simple elegant clothes with a pop of funky polka dots scarf and tie. And most of all, I love the style of the photography (I am a photographer myself!). Hope you enjoy this photo too!

This is one of my favorite, he's my fiance's grandfather, Dr.Vittorio Melò.
He was born in 1921, and in this picture he was only sixteen year old.
He was one of the youngest pharmacist of his hometown, Bologna, Northern Italy.He was truly a charming person, a doctor with an artistic soul. A real gentleman with an etiquette under any circumstances and always impeccable manners and style.

Celine Book Contest #1

Thanks for your input about the Celine inspiration book contest and for so many good ideas!

Luckily I picked up several books so at least 2 will be auctioned off for charity. The rest we can use for our contest winners.

Here is the first contest:

Remember when I posted those vintage photos that I bought at the flea market last January?

I think we all loved those images.

I want you to email me an old (nothing later than the 80's) original photo that you feel conveys an inspirational sense of style. It could be from your own family archive or one that you found somewhere like a flea market, garage sale or swap meet. If it is from your family I would love to hear a little about the people in it.

Garance and I will pick a few and post them and then we will collectively name a winner.

I love this idea because it does not cost a lot of money (flea market photos are relatively cheap and family photos are free) and I love looking at great old photos! I hope to see some amazing shots from the 20's, 30's 50's 70's or whatever period inspires you.

This part is IMPORTANT please read before sending me images!

- The subject line of the email should read "Vintage Photo Contest"

- The contest will run from March 24th to March 30th

- Only 1 image per email, please EDIT

- The photos will only be posted here on the blog, so the file size can be very small (no bigger than 700kb). I DO NOT need hi-res images. It takes too long to download them.

- Send your photos to: sartorialistcontest@gmail.com

- Writing a little something about the image you send will make your entry much more interesting for all of us.

Vintage Photos

-- Jeremy and Alden

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If you missed my initial post, here are the instructions again.

- The subject line of the email should read "Vintage Photo"

- The photos will only be posted here on the blog, so the file size can be very small (no bigger than 700kb). I DO NOT need hi-res images, they take too long to download.

- Writing a little something about the image you send will make your entry much more interesting for all of us.

- Email your photos to: sartorialistvintagephotos@gmail.com