On the Street....Everyday Couture, Sydney
Vintage lingerie is still easily available at most good vintage shops. It is always shocking to me the level of handwork that use to go into ,basically, everyday underwear.
For our lingerie experts
Do you think this is just a design detail or a very elaborate mending job?
When I was in college I learned a lot of couture sewing techniques. If I had ever turned in a garment with the hand-stitching so visible ,as the garment above, I would had gotten an F!
However, the fact that you can see the hand-stitching in a garment like this is what makes it so charming and romantic.
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post a commentStunning!
What delicate looking lace. Those boots make her look more real, without them she could look cartoonish.
www.tresfraisnajee.blogspot.com
I love the color of soft orange!!
That's peachy.
Very romantic, I do love it!!
looove vintage.
i think its for both detail and the mending.but the truth comes from the person's vision of the lingerie.either way,the person purposely/not be a novice handsewer to create that emotional effect on the fabric.which i think emphasizes the 'soft romance' feel.
Cute outfit.
my mom used to always say, look at the work done in a piece of clothing so you can appreciate and respect it (she was also trying to get us to keep our closets tidy), but I always think about this when I buy embroidered pieces. The time and craftsmanship.
xoxo,
F
lekisskiss.blogspot.com <--2 girls bloggin fashion from nyc and chicago!
am I the only one who thinks the model looks like amanda knox?
The lingerie is quite lovely too.
Especially in lingerie it could have been completely homemade. I have some handmade shirts (which I used to wear as nighties) made by the generation of my great-grandmother. That stuff would show stitching- my grandmother who has been a milliner at her time would not have accepted that ;)
I adore vintage undergarments. I have a handful of things passed down to me by my grandmother, and they are just so much fun.
But that outfit is fabulous--never would have thought of it. Bravo.
The level of handwork is amazing for a quotidian garment such as this. Good cheap labor made this possible, and it's what's missing in this country, where everyone thinks they have a right to riches. Great post!
The notion of craft is today an undervalued commodity. Being able to evidence something that has been made by hand is still a thrill...
It reminds me of something my grandma would have sewn for me.
Each stitch sewn with love, not perfection...much more meaningful and valuable.
this is so beautiful. Much appreciated from a designer standpoint!
Cute outfit. I love the lace detailing! xoxo
www.FashionSnag.com
This whole look would be completely different without the boots. They balance the overly feminine silhouette!
Superbe!
www.alphonsine.ca
Yes, my mom, from the old school, would never let her stitches show. But I think a neat running stitch is lovely and have fortunately overcome her compulsive instruction in my own work.
Sart, I would not have given you an F. There are instances where I believe the integrity and allure of an item is enhanced by seeing detailed hand stitching. Quilts, button-holes, men's lapels and this bloomer are great examples of this. Excellent job! I believe everything will be going towards intended transparency. We will want to see that we are getting our value in clothing.
one word: smashing! :)
That's the way to wear bloomers!
www.openzedoor.blogspot.com
A deep breath... :) :)
Just beautiful!!
That first detail shot looks like hardanger embroidery, which is definitely done on purpose.
Love her outfit. Very stylish.
I love the hand-stiching in the last photo! Beautiful!
http://mushitushi.blogspot.com
Lovely, but if an actual grandmother were wearing these granny knickers in the street, we would probably all think she was not quite right in the head.
That's not mending, that's drawn-thread stitching -- very time-consuming. And I would guess the running stitch on the hem was meant to show off the evenness of the stitching.
this looks is so 90s, in the best way, like kim gordon, or kim shattuck.
not in love with this outfit, possibly due to the fact that I see women schlepping around Seattle year round in this type of getup.
this is so great!! i've very similar vintage lingerie piece from 30's, this is wonderful idea..
Looks a lot like Billy Corgan
My guess would be that someone turned a tablecloth or maybe a pillowcover into lingerie.
I have quite some handmade things from my grandmother and my husbands grandmother and those details would be more likely to be found on a tablecloth.
Plus knickers like that would have been worn more likely by my great grandmother, not by my grandmothers generation and for hygienic reasons lingerie at that time would have been white, as far as I know.
Visible stitches at some places were okay, but at least on the pieces I have they are way more regular.
But whether true vintage or made from vintage fabric...it's very cute!
lovely! she looks so laid back and relaxed. lover the color and texture
beautiful detail~
The hand-stitching is intentional and part of the preciousness of the pantaloons
Hi! I LOVE THIS BLOG IS AMAZING!OMG
Interesting post. Great combination, esp with the choice of such a solid and sturdy boot. M/F.
I'm wondering if it's possible to connect this discussion to an even larger labor conversation addressing all craft-based work?
http://www.ted.com/talks/view/id/477
I agree...So delicate, so romantic, and oh so charming...she is a ray of hope!
Beautiful!
She's absolutely delicious.
Great shot.
I love this blog, such a fashion inspiration.
hey scott,
i have been a big fan of your blog for a long time, and as such i felt the need to comment on something i have perceived for some time and that really bothers me.
The Sartorialist has slowly been turning into another of the thousands of sites and magazines dedicated to women's fashion. I know you try to make it compelling for both men and women as well, but really, if i wanted to see so many women outfits i would buy vogue, cosmo, elle, glamour, etc..
I hope you really take this into consideration, as i love your site but have found myself visiting it less and less for these few past weeks.
Yours,
Christopher
I can't believe I am going to say this (because I am a man), but please Sart stop posting picture of women!!!
Where are the Australian sartorialists???!!!
Great photo. To try to answer your question - it looks like the fagoting shown was originally decorative. I surmise this based on the view that it looks like the pulls were right on the warp and weft lines.
I would also say that the exposed stitching was a shortcut way of finishing the seam - you're right - not a bad job - but not topflight workmanship either!
Also, a lot of this work was done by the original owner as often people (women mainly) made their own undergarments (and outer garments!). Putting this kind work in a garment was considered part of one's basic skill-set and nothing out of the unusual.
Love love love hand sewing that is showing, when it's well done and fits with the outfit. This is a perfect example.
Even though these are "stitches that show," which, as you and some others have noted, would be a no-no in a couture or high-end dressmaker garment, look at how even and precise they are! My guess, as someone stated above, is that this was a home-made garment made with care and love by nonprofessional. Perhaps for a trousseau. Beautiful and charming, and yes, a reminder of the kind of everyday craftsmanship that's gone missing in our culture.
I have a rural background. Beautifully even handstitching was & is highly prized in quilts, and hems, and hankies, etc. It is so immediate and personal and real.
beautiful shoes on the first pics !
Love the colors in this photo. And the visible hand stitching.
It's not just the lingerie on this look. She is apeing the 70s-80s look of work boots coupled with feminine garb. Not Doc Martens, but close enough.
It's a detail I think. And it's very sweet.
Classic late 30s early 40s colour for lingerie. Back in the day sewing notions were a big deal. Women were always gifting exotic feathers, fine lace and needle point detailing. Adding beautiful lace was a way to pretty up your under things.
blah blah, embroidery, workmanship. I just think she looks a little trashy (not to be mean). Maybe if she wore this dress with a sandal, and without that t-shirt. But as it is, nope, not feeling it. Come back to America, please. (I'm gona get it now)
Energie
Arlenesfelt said what I wanted to say: I love to see visible stitching. I find a way to topstitch many of the things I make. I love things with borders, trims, and outlines.
I love the look of vintage clothing because the sewing isn't perfect. I love the lace stitching, the peachy pink color, and the boots.
i love this picture!
agree!
It's called "drawn work" where threads are clipped to form an open place in the weave and then hemmed with hand stitches to show the design and prevent further ravelling. It could disguise a mend, but judging from the embroidery, it's probably deliberate. The visible running stitch on the piece with lace is a nice countepoint to the machine lace.
i'm sorry, but these boots are just no good.
I love that you noticed this kind of detail! Just a guess, but it looks like the kind of a thing a young girl would do herself, maybe only with training from her mother, to make her undergarments "fancy."
Its the kind of thing you get applauded for if you have a rational/design decision behind it (pique stitch?) but the lace to garment hem would most definitely yield a CCT F!
I completely agree with you!
www.thebeautylover.blogspot.com
a lovely vintage look here.
www.friendinfashion.blogspot.com
I love that you showed us this and that someone commented on the fact that 'it is a thrill'...I love fabric,any hand-stitching etc. and it is a lost art, that we is both charming and time-honored ..
thanks...L
great look!
I love it when you write more. I am relatively new to your blog and loved rapidly reading all your posts from the earlier years when your authorial voice was more evident in words, not just the photos alone. I think your take on things is infinitely interesting and personal and is only enhanced by your comments.
Anything made by the hand is to be treasured as it seems to be a lost art. If only people knew how much hand stitching went into a tailored jacket, it's what you can't see that is so impressive.
This undergarment is exquisite but I feel that hand stitched detail detracts a little from the lace.
By the way thank-you Scott for coming to Melbourne last week. What a pleasure to meet with a true artist and gentlemen.
My signed book got 'Christened' by my friend's cat that I was staying with in Melbourne. I couldn't believe it but now just say it has more character than the others.
All the best for the Christmas season
JK
I know this girl and she's as lovely as she is beautiful.
OMG its so beautiful... she put the romantic dress with an awesome rockerish twist with the booties I love it!!!
xx
Rosa
http://mystylishlittlesecret.blogspot.com/
I think this is one of my favourite pictures, and I would have never thought lingerie could be readapted in such a way. Great job spotting this, as it was a fascinating history lesson.
Love it. I would much rather see the loving hand made stitches on a garmet than something that was mass manufactured.
i don't mind the stitches, like you said, it goes so well with the rest of the outfit to create this romantic look
I think we value evidence of the hand now, which includes imperfections. When this stuff was made, anything handmade would have been more highly valued if it did not appear to be handmade.
I used to wear a lot of stuff like this bought from second hand shops in the 80s and while the labour in the embroidery and lacework used to amaze me, I also found lots of really dodgy repairs and alterations. I used to imagine the girls who did them were of the 'fix it and get out the door to that party' type rather than the 'fair hands embroidering flowers' type!
I could not agree with you more!! GREAT post! I am a collector of old linens/garments/textiles myself. It is also fun to take these old items and dye them outrageous colors...like chartreuse, or a firey orange. Unexpected things like that are really charming.
Thanks again
Haley Wulfman
http://the-second-look.blogspot.com
Absolutely amazing! Her name is Venice and she has the cutest boutique on William St.
J'Adore xx
Love the contrast of the serious, heavy duty boots and the feminine lingerie.
~ Blaumax
Mending, no question. Because the original work would not have shown. Or if it was intended to the stitches would have been tinier and more even.
(That is all from my grandmother, the seamstress, who often sits on my shoulder and whispers in my ear.)
I like the peach but would have liked it better teemed with chocolate brown or white tee. She is cute so I guess she can carry off something like this!
that look is great and very old-school. i adore the knits very much. i have always wanted to do knitting but is never been diligent enough for such thing ;)
great combat boots too.
♥
vindavindasonata.blogspot.com
Get out of Sydney - fast! - YAWN
The slip is so delicate, it's really lovely. And the way she wears it, I don't know, it's very whimsical.
The 'mending' is in fact a kind of cutwork which is common in Australian handmade embroidered items of the period. I have table clothes and cushions which my grandmother and mother made with this design--and those exact roses. I seem to recall my mother said she learned how to do it in needlework classes at school (in the 1960s).
I love vintage slips! This one is so pretty.
I like the little stitching detail, however imperfect it is.
bambinababy.blogspot.com
romantic is definitely the perfect word for this look and type of technique!
ultra chic
what a strange beauty.
i would re-think the grey leotard, but all the same, she looks delightful.
the vintage bloomers resemble a NOM*D design, especialy in the lace trimm.
This type of detail is called 'fagotting' believe it or not- and is deliberate, a garment like this was probably part of a brides trousseau....so delicate!
This so light, so tender and so PERFECT. It's in fact a truly inspiring outfit.
Let's grow up Later
I adore handcrafted vintage pieces such as these but I hear you on the turning in the visible stitching of the lace to the hem and getting a big 'F' but my teachers always said "its important to know/master the rules of your craft, so you can then choose to follow the rules or create your own" I now understand how true this is in my own business!(thanx Glenda and Jean!)
NO NO NO, these boots aren't working and unless the shoes are really feminin, the black won't work, the change is just really agresive, I think some degrade is needed, besides it's not only the dress the delicate part, the skin is really soft it contributes with the soft colors of the clothing; and everything (especially the vintage lingerine) works with the gold necklace, my point of view: Socks...maybe knitted, it'll help the vintage...
check fromGtoM.blogspot.com
Have you ever heard of Alabama Chanin formerly know as Project Alabama.......should check them out and their amazing hand work......there is no machine sewing in any of it!!!
beautiful and understated, i love the country stitching with the urban biker boot- very fresh and seems effortless
http://are-the-night.blogspot.com/
This is fabulous. Glad you got some great pics in Sydney.
cute look - its amazing to see the time and effort that was put into clothing of past eras...most people didnt have huge amounts of clothing in their basic wardrobes but everything they wore just looked so well made!
Level of handiwork... It's a combination of the following three facts- The lady of the house had leisure or spare time, she had an excellent command over the medium, and more important than the above two reasons, she had to demonstrate her love tangibly towards some one.
I don't think the black works with the varying pastel shades.
The undergown is very charming, however. The stitching adds a very heart-warming and personalised touch.
It's uncanny how we now have appreciation for things in fashion once frowned upon!
www.whatinthenameoflove.blogspot.com
Pretty Pretty Pretty. Not for mending, I think , just for beauty! THIS is why I thrift shop!
I get to think of my great grandmothers pieces. She made tablecloths, pillowcases and you name it, embroidering the fabric. Craftmansship is very rare these days, I try to knit and handsew as often as I have time, in order to keep the craftingskills alive.
I think the stitching of this peice where the lace is attatched to the fabric is not made very well, and I bet the lace is not handmade. However the feel and look from afar does not change, it is very beautiful.
lovely color.
www.whatdialike.com
i love handmade pieces and the thought of something being crafted vs fabricated . . .
. . . but your comment on vintage lingerie being available at vintage shops - well, that concept has always been weird to me. wearing someone's undies from 5 decades ago is weird concept to swallow. now if it was deadstock stuff, go for it, but someone elses used drawers, yikes.
Its like...
- take a picture of me... and sart said...
- no...ur just average...
- Oh am I? look at my undies...
and If it wasnt for the undergarment... this entire look would be ordinary... even for the boots.... this is so predictable...but who would even guess..than underneath this ...lies an embroidered dated and comfy undie? glad she showed that to us.....this is something that agynnes deyn would wear....
Gorgeous detailing - and I love that shade of pink - it's universally flattering.
I love the peach and grey combination! Cute pinafore dress!
Ripper!! Our Aussie gals are so fresh.
as I know this is called "AMF stitching"...I work designing mens tailoring and this kind of stitching is very common in the suits and blazers lapels and pockets; i don't have idea how the factory sew it, handmade or mechanically?, but it's a very sofisticated and expensive detail, cheap suits don't usually got it.
Thankyou for sharing thoughts and pictures with so much beauty and respect for the individual. People are beautiful and fascinating. I love your eye!
like in every art and craftmanship, you have to master elaborate techniques before being free to do whatever you want, in a deliberate way.
While I adore recent lingerie-inspired styles, I think this is taking it a bit too literally. I find the outfit a bit tacky. Why the grey t-shirt?
Also, japanese girls have been doing this for ages, and doing it better.
As for the bloomers: I suspect a mending job. A nice mending job. Although Im not quite sure what would have caused such a rip...
love the colors! maybe i can pull that off under my winter coat!!
The colours in this picture are so lovely.
xx
Yes, I'm agree with you. Makes it charming.
Love it! Fine lingerie is our best reminder of romance these days!
www.dansleboudoir.com
I can't wait to start Fashion school! and I do like the outfit is very cute and effortless. plus, the ankle boots are cool.
She looks charming. this look is just right but sitting on the edge of wrong. I love the lace detailing! The boots give it a little grunge!
i think she's really pretty, but I'm not a fan of the boots at all. It is nice to see so many people who appreciate the running stitch. I use these a lot in my work, and have often wondered whether or not people like it as much as i do.
I miss Sydney!! Lovely boots.
She is supremely cute which makes the F for hand-stitching entirely bearable. With those boots, any granny would have adored her too and stitched another charmingly flawed undergarment.
The hand-stitched handkerchief-like work here is something that you would only see in an former British Empire culture.
I had a housemother once. A totally repressed old-time Brit old maid. She hated children. Why she ended up being a housemother to the younger girls (she called us "gulls") at a private boarding school is beyond me. But I did learn something from her.
Everyday after school we were to sit in her parlor and learn handkerchief making. The rolled edges, the open work. We were reprimanded for shoddy stitches. I hated it. But looking back on it all I can see what a time-warp it was even back then. I had my own experience of the Victorian era.
Therefore, seeing this work on that hip young lady is doubly cool!
So I have to ask :
Does the question "you are a very stylish beautiful woman, may i take a picture of your lingerie?" always work for you?
It has never worked for me!
a mending job? hardly. the stitching technique is a lot like:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardanger_embroidery
Even if it was an addition, that stitching is far too good and too close together to be done 'not on purpose'. For a hem stitch it's a bit wider than what it could be, but it adds character to the garment.
And there is nothing wrong with seeing stitching if it's done well. Is that not why top stitching so crucial to men's wear? And that it also adds an extra detail to the beauty of the garment. Good hand stitching...it's so misunderstood and unappreciated today...
love her boots and that shade of pink is stunning!
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that is a classic sydney inner city look - close t shirt, lingerie, butch boots. you've made me nostalgic for my home town!
This is NOT a mending job. This belongs to a whole tradition of lace open work - specific to embroidery from the era.
scott! how do you notice such details waltzing along! good gravy.
sometimes, tho - to be honest, i think you find such terrific characters that they could be wearing burlap sacks and be terrifically interesting and worthy of revelry.
this woman - the face. the shoulders. the calves. SO intriguing.
i hope to God ur blog never dies.
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Those boots spoil the whole outfit, otherwise it's sweet in a kindergarten-teacher way. Sweet but very average
I've always adored vintage and own a few silk slips with the most exquisite hand embroidery.
However the contrast, here, with the boots is too predictable and banal except for the lingerie themselves.
the top one is a design feature not elaborate mending. its a stitch called faggoting . its not often you get to use that word in polite society.
The whip stitching on the Alencon lace is definitely a mend because it’s just in that one section. The running stitches in the seam allowance above looks to be a design element. By my standards it's a bit of stretch to call this couture sewing but it *is* very lovely.
I love the hand pick stitch! Very cool...
Actually I disagree if I may, its not a pick stitch; a pick stitch is a tiny dot of a stitch sitting on top of the fabric and the stitches are widely spaced, this stitch is bigger and more evenly spaced, hence it being a simple running stitch. They look similar but are actually sewn quite differently. A running stitch is not strong and is used for basting mostly; pick stitching is quite strong is most often seen on the lapels of fine tailored garments and it is also used to install a zipper by hand. Also – the little red roses in the first detail photo are made from several combined stitches called “bullions”. Ralph Rucci calls them “worms” and he uses them singly to hold together the piecing in his tailored couture cashmere garments.
wow shes pretty hot!
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Stylish and romantic, I do love it!!
Sydney attractions
At one point, a girl was encouraged to prove that her stitching was regular & even (like the newfangled "machine-made" stitching).
Additionally, if anyone saw enough of your knickers to judge your stitchery, you'd be guilty of more than poor sewing!
-Izzy N.
You ought to come to Atlanta. We have tons of "stylish weirdos." Love your blog.
how encouraging to see someone young appreciate traditional craftsmanship & swing it into the 21st century.
and yes, i've also noticed the lack of males from sydney! is that meant to say anything?!
Dear Sart, Had no idea you had studied sewing technique. What fun. My mother was a seamstress so I grew up in fab, Vogue stuff she sewed for us. I have a machine but only occasionally the time.
It occurred to me that this underwear is home-made, hence the little stitches. I have bought some before and noticed the tell-tale signs, plus no label. In those days (and up until fairly recently) women's clothes were largely hand-made.
The lace on this is a treasure! (I have old bits of family lace which was always taken off worn things and recycled.)
Design detail.
These fabrics look light and comfortable. The shirt and dress look similar to designs by Mike Vensel. He has a selection of sustainable, versatile, organic pima cotton clothing. Check out his collections at www.mikevensel.com
wow so cute!!!
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Dream boots.. I want to have one!
KA-VOGUE-GAY-RA
KA-VOGUE-GAY-RA
KA-VOGUE-GAY-RA
I love this one. :) Great outfit.
love this all exept the boots, yet its good that its imperfect
I absolutely love it! Pretty and easy, with a shot a jet black to keep it from going too far into the realm of "precious". And the whisper-thin tee is perfect underneath.
Meh, this look is so 90s grunge. been there, done that.
Beautiful handiwork. I guess it is possible that the stitching over the lace could be an elaborate mending job, but the stitches are so small and even that they are decorative. Clothes (especially underwear) are seen as disposable items now that they are mass produced and cheap. It's a treat to see how much care people used to invest in their clothes--and how much more individual they used to be.
So beautiful!
I am so excited that all this recession doom has lead us to an love of craft *:-) x
Love your blog and 99% of the time I agree with you but she just looks silly in my opinion!
Drew Barrymore style ;)
a nice tribute to early 90's
Real Nice Catch!!
Lovely outfit.
delicate lace and tough-as-iron boots... THAT is style :)
i covet this outfit. is that a slip or bloomers? methinks i need to get some bloomers.
those pictures are super lovely!
xx
Nice top..
What fabric is this?
The tshirt makes it look soft and undeniable, where the boots get her a firm stand with the lace and linen. i love it!
The 90210 comment made me laugh. :)
Great colour combination!
So beautiful.
Like the shoes
Hello,
It's called hardanger embroidery. My mother is sitting beside me and has many table cloths with this pulled threadwork on it - usually white on white. It's absolutely a design detail NOT mending!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardanger_embroidery
wow. aren't you a talented photographer. Do you ever come to Seattle?
how encouraging to see someone young appreciate traditional craftsmanship & swing it into the 21st century.
and yes, i've also noticed the lack of males from sydney! is that meant to say anything?!
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gorgeous! where would one find boots like this?!
I have a shelf full of slips from the 30s and 40s. They are made better than most dresses today.
Lovely girl.
i love those roses ...
i also know how to stitch them...Scott
Vens
Love her outfit. Very stylish.