Changing Times, Florence

I'm an American, and a New Yorker at that, so I am all for change - but I was really saddened yesterday to see that this very romantic old store has been turned into just another big name jewelry boutique.

Let's put aside that this was a fur shop, that is a different argument for a different day. The interior of this place was pure 50's Italian, all wood-lined and fixtured. The kind of shop that you just don't see very often anymore, and really remember when you do see it. (Actually, I don't know what exact period this shop was built so if any of our Florence friends know anything about the history of this place we would love to hear.)

The main reason I took this shot was not just the the dramatic lighting, but while I was admiring the store signage this little old lady's head popped around the curtain to take a look at something down the street.

I love the shot the way it is - stoic, silent, elegant, reeking of old world glamour and the little movement in the curtain keeps it from being too stiff. However, if I'd been able to get the shot with the lady's head in the window it would be hanging on my wall at home. The picture, not the little lady's head - did I make that clear?

On the Street....Fashion Forward Florence

What I really liked was that this reads as a coat, but with the curved front it is actually more like a very extended sportscoat.

I was going to say that I also loved the fact that if you looked quickly you might think that this was shot in NYC, but on second thought, I'm not sure it's a great thing that Florence is beginning to look like any other big city.

The Sartorialist - The Book!

So, the reason I was in London last week was to sign the contract and work on my first book!

It will be published by Penguin and be around 500 pages of images with a little writing.

I have received many offers in the past about doing a book, but I held back until I felt the right offer was at hand. This was the right offer.

The main reason I feel so excited about this project is that Penguin will publish the book in paperback, and a special limited-edition "bespoke" version simultaneously. This was very important to me because as a photographer I wanted a beautiful book to showcase my images - but I didn't want to do just another expensive coffee table book that would be too expensive for many of my readers. I think this creative method will be the best of both worlds.

The publishing date, as it stands now, is September 2009 - and will include a small book tour in cities like London, Paris, Dublin, a few cities in Australia, and a few cities in the US. As we get closer I will, of course, keep you updated about the specifics of the tour.

On the Street....Half Plaid, Paris

Here We Go!!!

So The Sartorialist 2009 starts for me today in London!

I'm in London for a meeting today and then tomorrow I'll do a fitting for my first real "bespoke" suit by Savile Row legends Anderson & Sheppard.

I will try to keep a little diary on the progress of the suit and the some of the issues involved in ordering such a fine work of hand craftsmanship.

Of course my first concern was not about double-breasted or Super 120's - but how much should I workout before my fitting.
Do I want my suit to be for my "Winter body" or my "Summer body"?
I decided i would rather go in at my high weight and come back later for a "bespoke" tweed swimsuit for my summer body (maybe with a matching vest!).

Anyway, after London I will go to Florence for Pitti Uomo and then on the to...well, below is the schedule - or as they say in London "schedule" (I guess you have to hear me say it for that to be funny).

London January 7th - 9th
Florence January 10th - 16th
Milan January 17th - 20th
Paris January 21st - 25th
Stockholm January 26th - 29th
Rome January 30th - February 2nd

It's a long trip but I hope to get lots of great images.

This Sunday I might take the train to Modena and Bologna for the day. Any suggestions for great menswear shops in those two cities?

On the Street....French Cut, Paris

On the Street....Left Bank, Paris

Pressure Irons

I don't know how these slipped onto the market without me noticing (oh right, I don't really love to iron), but they sound great.

I used to use an industrial version of this type of iron (Sussman?) for my tailoring classes in college. Since then, though, I have suffered through with low quality commercial irons. It kinda took the fun out of ironing (if there ever was any).

So, does anyone have one of these and what do you think about it?
I am very seriously considering buying one of these so I would love to hear any input.

On a related note, when I go on a big trip that will include Milan I always iron just enough shirts to get there - and then have the shirts pressed at my hotel, the Hotel Principe di Savoia. They do the most incredible shirt pressing ever. Incredible to the point that I had to go down to the laundry room and have them explain how they did it.

Their secret is that they have a big industrial steam iron (in the manner of the irons below), BUT after the steam iron passes over the shirt a blast of cold air comes up from under the shirt and quick sets the pressing.

I have worn shirts for almost a full day with barely a wrinkle anywhere except for high movement spots.

This concept is related to why I keep my aftershave in the vegetable crisper of my refrigerator - but that is a whole different post.


Rowenta Pressure Iron and Steamer $169.99
Continuous high-powered steam is available at the touch of a button making ironing fast and effortless. You'll be smoothing out the toughest of wrinkles and pressing the sharpest of creases. For the sewing enthusiasts, you can easily press seams, smooth fabric and pre-shrink fabrics that can't be washed. The vertical steam option enables you to remove wrinkles from hanging garments or drapes, while the variable steam allows you to adjust steam output based on fabric type. Features an extra-large water tank that holds up to 33 ounces for up to 1 1/2 hours of ironing. Stainless steel soleplate glides easily over clothes and has high scratch resistance. The stable compact base fits on most ironing boards and has an iron rest for convenient storage of iron. 1800 watts. One-year limited warranty.


Rowenta Expert Steam Generator $299.99
Ironing system is perfect for the home, yet provides all the efficiency of commercial ironing systems and the professional quality results. A 6-foot steam hose provides pressure steam on demand, and the compact base and 12-foot power cord provide convenience. Extra-large continuous fill water tank holds up to 33 ounces for up to 1 1/2 hours of ironing autonomy and can be filled any time while in use. The continuous high powered steam is available at the touch of a button and makes ironing fast and effortless. Allows you to smooth out the toughest wrinkles and press the sharpest creases with ease. Vertical steam is ideal for removing wrinkles from hanging garments and drapes, and the stainless steel soleplate provides high performance glide with high scratch resistance. The stable compact base fits most ironing boards. Also features variable steam control.

On the Street....Big Bad Plaid, Bowery

I always think that a big plaid will make everything look too square, but the cut of the coat (above) and the size he chose to buy really help to reduce the bulk of the overall look.


I love how the color of the red buffalo plaid cap and blue scarf really make this outfit standout or outstanding.

On the Street....Pink & Grey, Paris