On The Street.......Paris

Backstage Louis Vuitton

more tomorrow

At Yohji

more tomorrow

At Calvin Klein

Viktor & Rolf Bike

On The Street.......Via Gesu, Milano

On The Street.......Via Manzoni, Milano

Stella at Burberry

DSquared - Part Due

I have to admit the front is almost as good as the back

Wednesday Morning - The Sartorialist Is Going To Paris!

I feel like a new man!! I slept, ate and I feel like a human being again!

This has been one of my best days ever, I met several people I have always admired - Franca Sozzani, Luciano Barbera and most important Giorgio Armani. Oh yeah, and I found out that I will be continuing my adventure in Paris for the mens shows there. It will be such a great contrast from Milan.

I know it seems crazy that i have shot myself lately considering I have never done it before but I thought it might be a fun way to keep a personal journal of the trip. Tomorrow we are have breakfast at the Hotel Principe di Savoia

Just to make it easier here is a link to my mens coverage at Men.Style.com
The Sartorialist on men.style.com

Again Thanks to everyones support and kind words, Next stop Paris.

Bella Donna

Bloomingdales Executives in Milan

At DSquared

Want to see the front of the dress tomorrow?

On The Street.......Print Dress, Milano

In the Piazza

Versace

Legs , long tan legs - millions of them it seemed. thats all I really remember from the Versace show
The was the setting for the Versace after show dinner. I had not eaten in about 36 hours so food never tasted so good and with all those scented candles the place smelled incredible.

Tuesday morning

ok it is not getting any better - 2 maybe 3 hours sleep last night. After Versace I came back to the room to edit and color correct etc for The Sartorialist and Men.Style.com.
Actually I am not complaining - I love it and everyone has been so supportive.
I figured if i try a lot of backlight it might lessen the "haggardliness" of my look right now

McQueen p2

Men.Style.com update

Here it is!

The Sartorialist for Men.Style.com

http://men.style.com/fashion/blogs/s2007men

More From McQueen

Right Before The McQueen Show

Monday Morning

Jil, Prada, Burberry and 3 hours sleep last night. McQueen this morning and shooting "on the street". No taking photos of Miuccia or Raf backstage! Apparently no sleep makes me write in sentence fragments - oh wait I always write in sentence fragments - I think I just wrote a run-on. I will stop now

First Big Day Of Shows

A lot more photos to come but it is 3:15am and I have McQueen tomorrow at 10am so I will do more in the morning.

Milan Women Love Color

Sunday Morning

Cappuccino, and second-hand cigarette smoke for breakfast. Sorry for the sunglasses but the jetlag, drinking and resulting headache are making my eyes extra sensitive. I took this photo with my new Apple laptop,. very cool

UPDATE In Milan It Is Still About Girls On Bikes

The mens photos should start Monday at Men.Style.com

I'm going to the Details magazine party tonight and Jil Sander first thing Sunday morning. Don't forget to check here and Style.com.

The first big impression of the women here is that they still look really good after forty. I have seen more cool 40 something women than cool 20 year olds

One Day Of Prep For Milan

I'm finalizing everything for Milan today. I might not be able to post but if everything goods well I should start posting from Milan on Saturday!

I think this is the most subdued I have ever seen Mory but I love it. Mory is good friends with Nana Boateng who I just happened to see and spend about four hours waiting with at the passport agency while getting everything updated for my trip to Milan. It was one of those moments I truly wished I had my camera. Nana was wearing a pink seersucker suit with hot pink, sequined Indian sari-esque silk on the lapels. Quite a look. I was going to take a photo with my cellphone but I was getting so frustrated at the waiting I could not bring myself to deal with it.

Update On The Street....Refined Casual, Upper East Side

I just wanted to say that I didn't do this post to get him back or for revenge. When I took this photo I reminded him of that story and we both had a good laugh.

Actually, at the time, I was probably much more of a pain to work with than him because I was so young and eager and my enthusiasm far outweighed my talent at that point. I also remember he really saved my ass on something that happened with Nordstrom that he somehow was able to cover for me,

Like I said it was not revenge just an honest, funny story of starting in the fashion business. I was a little surprised no one made a comment about my "5-button" suit.


I use to work with this guy when I first moved to New York in the early 90's. Actually ,in his case, I use the term "work" very loosely and I don't think he would disagree.
As you can see he is the epitome of Trad. Upper East Side Chic (except for the man bag). I remember when I bought my first Armani suit in '92ish - I was around 22. I was so proud and I was sure everyone loved Armani as much as I did. I walked into this gentleman's office that morning while he was eating breakfast with a couple of my coworkers. He asked me all about my new suit - I made sure to point out this was the new "5-button model". He seemed very pleased by that.
I don't think the full weight of his sarcastic interest in my suit really hit me until about lunchtime - that was my first introduction to the vicious style tribes of New York fashion.
I can laugh about it now because I just added about 30 pounds to him in Photoshop, (just kidding)

Sartorialist In Milan - 2

Sorry no post tonight, I just got back from Men.Style.com where I reviewed the mock-up of the blog. It is great!
Actually it is not that much different than mine but it still looks really good.

I also just found out I have my first "at the party" picture in DNR, that is me on the far right.

Milan Invitations

The invitations for Milan are coming in now, I really love Michael Bastian's invitation. The basketball player in the photo is actually his Dad in high school. I think that helps to explain the authentic feel of Michael's take on classic American design.

I can't wait to see the rigs in Milan.

I have seen Michael's Spring 2007 collection evolve and he has given "American classics" a bit of an edge. He along with Thom Browne are making American design a little dangerous again.

On The Street....Outside The Apple Store- Soho

Cocktails At The New Hearst/Esquire Offices -2

If you look up the term "Captain of Industry", Terry Lundgren ,CEO of Federated, should be pictured. He just looks like someone that should be running something, I think it is the hair. This was at the cocktail party at Esquire new offices the other day - Terry Lundgren actually looks like the guys in those old Esquire illustrations from the 30's and 40"s. I bet he would have been drawn looking at architectural sketches with a few of his co-workers while smoking and taking practice putts in the office.

On the Street....Soho, New York

The Sartorialist Goes To Milan !

I am so excited to announce that next week The Sartorialist will be covering the Milan men's fashion week for Men.Style.com!

Men.Style.com will give me my own blog within their site and I will shoot and comment on the chaos around the shows, the parties, the people, and the city of Milan just like I do here in New York.

For that week anything regarding mens will be on Men.Style.com and anything related to women's and my personal trip diary will be on The Sartorialist so please visit both if possible.

I will update with a link to the Men.Style.com blog and other specifics as they arise, wish me luck!

Bling Master Full-On

So this gentleman was just walking all over Harlem in his hybrid Sartorial gear pushing a cart blasting jazz music and loving life.

On the Street....Harlem, New York

Blingmaster! I will print the rest of the outfit tomorrow morning - it is really quite something.

On the Street....Nolita, New York

I'm seeing a lot of the "Little White Dress" in Nolita this Spring

Fathers Day In Harlem

The shoes!

On the Street....Downtown, New York

You gotta love that she uses a Louis Vuitton bag for her bike basket.

On the Street.... Central Park, New York

Cocktails At The New Hearst/Esquire Offices

This is one of the regional winners of the "Esquire Best-Dressed Men" contest they sponsored with Macy's. '"This gentleman actually designed the suit and shirt he is wearing. I will post a few more photos from this event - it was held in the enormous sample room Esquire has in their new offices. When you see the photos of this space you will see why it is the first thing Esquire guys tell you about their new offices.

On the Street.... Vintage, Print Dress, New York

I received an email the other day asking if i ever shot petite women. Maybe it is just the angle I shoot from but a lot of the women I shoot are petite. This young lady is about 5'1" -very petite but the dress doesn't overwhelm her. She said she was considering taking it in around the bodice but the way it flowed when she walked was so perfect I told her not to touch a stitch.

The Young Ones

Girls And Their Bikes

The Sartorialist #1 Fashion Blog According To British Esquire

Big thanks to Dennis Jun for his email letting me know that British Esquire has sited The Sartorialist as the top fashion blog. Actually, I have to check the exact wording of what I'm the top of so I'm off to Casa Magazines to pick up my copy.

If I could only get the guys at American Esquire to notice me !!

G. Bruce Boyer Book Signing For "Rebel Style" At Jay Kos

On the Street.... Miu Miu Dress, New York

On the Street.... Red Plaid, New York

On the Street.... Model/Citizen, New York

On the Street.... UPDATE Leopard Dress, New York

Amelie of Brussels sent me this photo of the leopard dress from the Moschino show. My first Runway-to-Reality editorial! I actually like the sleeve detail in the production piece than the runway version.

Thanks Amelie

The Real World

I get a lot of comments about certain outfits that I have shot don't work in the "real world" - I think the people making those comments are just not considering all the jobs people do that allow them their Sartorialist freedom.

I shot both of these today in Soho about a half hour apart. They were both pretty surprised when I was able to guess what they were doing.

Example #1
Any guy dressed with that level of style, carrying a mirror (not on Flea Market Sunday) must be prop buying - he was, for the John Varvatos store.

Example #2
Wearing a vintage piece like that and carrying several big bags of clothes she was obviously returning samples from a photo shoot.

I guessed on both and scored big points by being able to guess.

On the Street.... Upper East Side, New York

Saks - "Want It" campaign

Terron Schaeffer, SVP, Marketing Saks, Senior VIP Sartorialist - He had the most beautiful and most expertly executed pocket square I have seen in a while.
Michael Fink, Saks VP Fashion Director, Womens

Monday I stopped by the preview lunch for Saks Fall campaign "Want it" - the place was full of Sartorialists. I met Terron Schaeffer who walked me through the Michael Robert's ,New York inspired, collages that will be incorporated on shopping bags, catalogues and advertising. Terron must have known me from a previous life because the first image he took me to was the Bruce Weber collage - Bruce is my all-time favorite photographer.

On the Street.... Nolita, New York

On the Street.... Soho, New York

I love the silk headwrap with the very trad navy blazer(Yohji actually), charcoal pants, and suede shoe combo.

By complete coincidence I saw this same gentleman about 5 hours later at Barneys. He had transformed the silk headwrap into a rakishly tucked-and-puffed pocket square, It seems Bruce Weber has an influence beyond Abercrombie photos.

On the Street.... Meatpacking District, New York

On the Street.... Madison Ave., New York

Tiny suit as designed by Dolce & Gabbana

On the Street.... Marni Jacket, New York

On the Street.... West Village, New York

The fun of shooting on the streets is you just never know what you will find. If I haven't found anything good in a day or so I really start feeling like I will never get another good shot. Then someone ,like this gentleman, strolls by and everything is right again in New York.
Of course the hat is what I spotted from about two blocks away but I also like the linen suit. i can't decide if i think it is vintage, it could be Yohji but the shoulder makes me fell like it is vintage.

On the Street.... Vintage Color, New York

On The Street.... Washington Square Park, New York

Summer Is Almost Here

Tim Hamilton Fall 2006 Preview

We are definitely in the mist of a "New York Moment" for menswear. Add the name Tim Hamilton to the list of young designers that are helping to reestablish the "American esthetic" on the international design scene.

On The Street.... West Village, New York

Of course she walked by while I was shooting Tim Hamilton's collection. I wasn't quick enough to stop her but I love the bag.

On The Street.... Harlem, New York

"Freelancing" Socks

-I shot this the day I ran the Glenn O'Brien profile so maybe I had "freelancing socks" fresh on my mind but the navy socks with the khaki suit are perfect. To me, it is the little details like this that separate a Sartorialist from the simply well dressed.

-Great suit, great fit and great pant length

On The Street.... Refined Sportswear#4, New York

I have one goal this summer - give guys some direction and inspiration on how to do summer casual in a more refined way. I can't take another city summer of cargo shorts and logo tees. Granted, doing refined casual is so much more difficult in the height of summer than it is in the depths of winter but I will keep my eyes peeled for the guys that are doing it right.

What I really liked here was the green,pink, blue color combo.

The shoes also drew my attention. A friend of mine that lives in Florida mentioned he likes to wear shorts but couldn't decide on the shoes. He suggested leather sandals, I suggested leather mocs - Tods or J Crew both do a great version. I won't be seen with him in leather sandals.

On The Street.... Upper East Side part 2, New York

Some girls were just made to wear little summer dresses

What's Right & What's Wrong

What's Right
-Courageous mix of patterns
I love the mix of large check shirt with a dotted tie and small checked patterned jacket. I'm not saying it is the best I have ever seen but it does takes courage to mix it up like that. A+ for effort

- I like the rakish attitude of his tie knot.


What's Wrong
-Fit, fit,fit
This gentleman is tallish and thin but the jacket has no shape, it desperately needs to be taken in at the waist. Some may say his jacket is a little long but I think that is up to personal preference, plus if it gets more waist suppression that will minimize the length issue.

-Sleeve length,
He needs to show some cuff

-Pocket Square
Right now no suit seems finished to me without a pocket square. This gentleman obviously has a talent for mixing patterns so I would love to see how he would incorporate a pocket square into this ensemble.

The Good News
-All of the problems are so easily fixable.
He could take that jacket in today to a good tailor and elevate this look from a 6 to a 10 almost overnight.

On The Street.... Upper East Side, New York

I shot this young lady a few weeks ago wearing a beautiful coat dress with 3/4 length sleeves (I should clarify she was wearing the coat dress, not me - me write pretty someday)

I just happened to run into her again recently - she really has that Audrey Hepburn kind of elegance down pat.

On The Street.... Old Man Style In Detail, New York

On The Street.... Nolita White Dress, New York

Style Profile.....Glenn O'Brien, GQ's Style Guy

Glenn O'Brien has been the "The Style Guy" at GQ for years. He has helped countless gentleman define and refine their style. I met Glenn recently and asked him a few questions about his personal style. I have to admit that I have big respect for any guy over 40 who can wear Supreme with Hermes and make it look good.
Best Sartorial advice from your Dad?
I never knew my father but my grandfather said never buy a car you can't wear your hat in. (He wore a homburg.)

You build your daily look around your?
My mood.

The first thing I look at in another Sartorialist’s outfit.
Shoes and where the trousers meet them.

I skimp when buying.
I like generic white handkerchiefs and Colgate toothpaste.

I splurge when buying.
I have my suits made in London by John Pearse and Anderson & Sheppard.
(note that the suit he is wearing in the photo is a John Pearse navy pintsrtipe denim DB!)


I always break this fashion rule.
GQ says your socks should match your trousers. I think socks should freelance.

I never break this fashion rule.
I religiously wait until Memorial day to bring out the white.

Must have item for Fall 2006
A new "coppola" from Sicily.

Favorite store
Hermes, Supreme

Style icon
Thelonious Monk, James Coburn

Worst fashion mistake
Shirt tail out, not knowing where your waist is.

Most cherished item
My Anderson & Sheppard tuxedo

Favorite item of clothing
John Pearse double breasted pinstripe denim suit.

Favorite “fashiony” movie
Blow Up

Guilty pleasure
Pasta, Fiorduva white wine from Marisa Cuomo in Furore ($)

Describe your personal style
Moody

You feel best wearing?
Belgian shoes, Supreme jeans, Hermes sweater

Personal Style quirk
When it comes to my feet comfort comes first

Dress to impress who?
Dress to express myself.

Most overrated item in menswear
Leather.

Most underrated item in menswear
The tie.

Most stylish city?
Rome

Never caught wearing?
Basketball shoes

When I was in high school I wore?
Clashing madras

Shine your own shoes?
Half the time.

Hobby?
reading, bridge (when I can find 4)

Sports?
Golf, ping pong

Favorite fashion magazine?
Italian Vogue.

Favorite other magazine?
Purple, Self-Service, Another Man

Cologne, skincare?
Hermes Rocobar, Kiehls, Pat Wexler's pink goo vs. old age

I always dress my best for….?
Occasions when my wife has changed her clothes several times before we go out.

On The Street.... Lower East Side, New York

Refined, stylish, sporty And 40-ish.

Who said men age more gracefully?

The only part that would have made the photo better was if she was still on her bike - she had just locked up it up.

On The Street.... Beauty & The Bike, LES, New York

I love the contradiction of the sexy dress and the implied sportiness of the bike.

On The Street.... Refined Sportswear#3, New York

- Love the slim leg of the shorts and the color is great

- The slim cut buttondown shirt (with collar buttons undone) is really important right now -believe it or not the one he is wearing is Thom Browne

-For running around in the City on a hot summer day this works for me. Sure, he could tuck in the shirt and give a proper hem to the shorts but that is an easy styling adjustment that can be modified depending on the occasion.

-What really makes this look refined for me is the shoes -not flip flops or sneakers

-Hair-perfect

On The Street.... Green Dress/Red Hair, New York

On The Street.... Orchard Street Bikers, LES, New York

On The Street.... Blue Dress, LES, New York

This girl was not very tall and yet the dress did not overpower her. I think the real key is the just below the calf length and the the fact the front is slightly shorter than the back

GQ/CFDA Party

I meant to take more pictures but I start talking to people and forget, crap!

On The Street.... Two Detail Shots, New York

A&S suit w/ tie pin

Vintage Valentino

On The Street.... Refined Casual, New York

This is a great example of how to wear shorts when you are over 40 - actually this would also help sharpen the look of most 20 year-olds that I see around town.

On The Street.... So Nice To See, New York

It is so nice to see a woman wearing jeans that don't show her butt crack (they sit on her hips perfectly). It is also great that she is wearing a belt and she has her shirt tucked in. See, casual can look refined and still be sexy.

Of course she was Italian-she spoke almost no English. At first she thought I wanted her to take a photo of me - she reached for my camera but the look on my face must have made it pretty clear that she had it wrong, Never touch a man's Canon -wait, that didn't sound right.