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The Sartorialist


Monday, October 31, 2005

Maybe I Have Been Watching Too Much Law & Order And CSI

I was reading in WWD today that Prada has separated Jil and Helmut's financial results from the rest of the Prada group. The statement states that Prada is isolating "nonstrategic brands (Jil Sander and Helmut Lang) from the core group with a view to their subsequent disposal."
Wouldn't a Conspiracy Theorist postulate that Prada bought Jil and Helmut (at the time Prada's main competitors) just to run them into the ground? Think about it, with Tom Ford gone from Gucci and Prada now predicting $1.83 billion in sales by 2010, didn't Bertelli come out the big winner? Can't you imagine a "Ripped from the Headlines" L&O with Glen Close as a Fatal Attractionish Jil Sander going murderess on a Dennis Hopper's Patrizio Bertelli.

Sunday, October 30, 2005

Chess King....Greenwich Village, New York

The Village Chess Shop is one of those only in New York places. Opened in 1972, its history is written on the faces of its long-time members and on the yellowing newspaper articles that decorate its walls. The Village Chess Shop is one of those places that is a world unto itself. When a regular enters, they are greeted like Norm at Cheers. Pick-up games are played day and night (until midnight!), every day of the week. I mean really, where but New York would you to able to support an all-night chess den, let alone two. The Chess Forum opened six years ago across the street and runs a similar schedule, if only slightly less steeped in history.


Friday, October 28, 2005

The Coolest Cat in Williamsburg

Savile Row Tailor Thomas Mahon in New York

Thomas Mahon ,Savile Row Tailor and author of the blog English Cut, was in New York recently taking orders from his growing American clientele. The Sartorialist asked Thomas a few questions before the beer started flowing.

How is your American customer different from your English or French customer?
The Americans appreciate that I travel to see them. Because London and Paris are closer, there it's taken more for granted. My traveling is especially appreciated on the US West Coast.

Has your blog had an effect on your business? if so more in the UK or the US?
The blog has helped my business considerably, especially in America. Where it has proved particuarly helpful is bringing new people into the Savile Row experience, which has always been a problem for us tailors..
How has the aura of "Savile Row" shaped the expectations of your
American customers. Do they insist on a very traditional "English Cut".
Very much so. My customers are particualarly looking for something to differentiate themselves from the far more common Italian style, which I'm happy to do for them.

What would you like to see more American men wearing?
More bespoke, from anyone- Italian, English, Hong Kong, it doesn't matter.

What is the most satisfying element of your work?
A delighted customer, and maybe a shared drink afterwards.

Brad Pitt or Johnny Depp which would you most like to dress?
I have no preference. However, if I could choose an actor, it would have to be Daniel Craig, the new James Bond. He's got a bit of an edge to him.

Thursday, October 27, 2005

On The Street.... Midtown, Manhattan

Tuesday, October 25, 2005

You Heard It Here First...Bocce Ball!!

I don't know what surprised me more, seeing someone under 70 palying bocce ball or seeing someone chic playing bocce ball.

Monday, October 24, 2005

Style Profile...Jay Kos

The Sartorialist asks Jay Kos ten questions about his personal style.

Favorite store?
G.Lorenzi Milan

Worst fashion mistake?
Trying to hard

Guilty pleasure?
Cigars and Dark Chocolate

Describe personal style?
Personal style has very little to do with what one wears. Personal style can not be learned or taught, you either have it or you don't.

Personal Style quirk?
Leaving my cuff buttons unbuttoned on my dress shirts

Most overrated item in menswear?
The color Black

Most stylish city?

Never caught wearing?
Shorts unless doing a sport

When I was high school I wore?
Cowboy boots

Cologne, skincare?
Guerlain Vetiver

Friday, October 21, 2005

The Individualist

Marlboro Man....West Village, Manhattan

Wednesday, October 19, 2005

Style Profile...Duncan Quinn

By day Duncan Quinn plays Clark Kent ,working as a lawyer, but by night Duncan becaomes a sartorial superman breaking down the "rules" of the stodgy old-mens-club of bespoke tailoring. Clockwise above; portrait of Duncan Quinn, image of Michael Caine from Duncan Quinn's NoLita boutique, polaroid of Colin Farrell sporting a Duncan Quinn suit.
The Sartorialist asked Duncan ten questions about his personal style

Style icon?
Michael Caine

Most cherished item?
1940 Breitling

Favorite item of clothing?
Three-Button 13oz. Midnight blue chalkstripe three piece suit

Describe personal style?
Days of glory and nights of excess

Dress to impress who?
No one. Dress to make yourself feel like who you are.

Most underrated item in a man's wardrobe?
Collar Stay's

Never caught wearing?
Hmmm…never say never

Shine your own shoes?
Only an old soldier can shine shoes as they should be shone.

Favorite magazine?

Cologne, skincare?
Roger et Gilbert, Dr, Haushka

The New Relaxed

Monday, October 17, 2005

My New Favorite Store...Obscura Antiques & Oddities

I think the word Oddities pretty well sums up this unbelievable East Village shop of delights. I could try and descibe some of the treasures but the thrill of discovery is just too great for me to ruin it for you. Obscura Antiques & Oddities 263 East 10th Street. 212.505.9251

Stripe Right...Midtown Manhattan

Sunday, October 16, 2005

Old Man Style....Brooklyn

November Magazines

American Vogue (Nov.)
If you look at only one page while flipping through your "wife's" Vogue, check out the Norman Jean Roy double page portrait of Thom Browne and his crew. C'mon, you have to admit the guy is on to something.

Travel & Leisure (Nov.)
Sometimes a magazine really hits the mark, Novembers Travel & Leisure hits a home run. The "Best of Paris" story by Natasha Fraser-Cawassoni gives detailed information for everywhere new and chic in Paris to spend your child's college fund instead of Princeton. Anders Overgaard’s photo's in "Jewel of India" could not be more beautiful.

GQ Style (British)
I buy almost everything and I still couldn't find enough to love in the premiere issue of GQ Style to justify the price. By comparison, it shows you just how on target Men's Vogue was in their first issue. Please Men's Vogue don't disappoint us!

Friday, October 14, 2005

Accessories Will Not Be Ignored

Talented Mr. Ripley

When was the last time a movie had more beautiful young stars, perfect costumes, and stunning locations. Will The Talented Mr. Ripley become our generations Philadelphia Story?

Fulton Fish Market

Wednesday, October 12, 2005

Sometimes It Is How You Wear It

Thank God for College Kids

Tuesday, October 11, 2005

My New Favorite....Book

Disfarmer The Vintage Prints offers a glimpse into rural Arkansas life of the 30's and 40's.

Fulton Fish Market

Ongoing salute to the recently closed Fulton Fish Market.

Style on the Street....West Village, NYC

Sunday, October 09, 2005

On The Street.... The Bookseller

Some guys just have more fun getting dressed.

Mory Kaba of Eredi Pisano

Mory is the style guru and store manager of Eredi Pisano on Madison Ave.

Saturday, October 08, 2005

Style of the Times Editor

Stefano Tonchi, Editor of New York Times Style Magazine, looking super chic in the front row during Paris fashion week.
more photos from the collections at

Tom Ford does W

That explains alot.
When I come across a centerfold in W magazine I expect a sexy photo of Kate or Stella or Gemma not a naked Tom Ford!!
If you must, more photos from the Steven Klein story can be found at

Friday, October 07, 2005

Good Bye Fulton Fish Market

After almost 200 years in one place, the Fulton Fish Market is moving to the Bronx.
I have always found the fish market an endless fountain of inspiration.
Form follows function but what great form old man!


Jay Kos Has Serious Style

Thursday, October 06, 2005

Men's Vogue Lives

Conde Nast Publications announced today that Men's Vogue has moved from test to full-on launch. Men's Vogue will publish three times next year (April, September, November) and will increase to ten issues for 2007.

In the Crowd...New York Fashion Week

Wednesday, October 05, 2005

Brooks Brothers

Is this the turn around of Brooks Brothers that I have always waited for? Brooks Brothers sits on an incredible company history and a library of truly iconic styles, plus some of the most beautiful stores to house them in but can they make the store exciting in a consistent way?. I'm still not blown away when I walk into the Madison Ave store, but sometimes the fastest way to turn a company around is through image advertising (see Abercrombie). I can't wait for next season.

Milan Fashion Week Party Central is right on top of the fashion week party scene.. Here one of the fashion industries top Sartorialists ,Diego Della Valle, at a party he hosted for "The Snippy World of New Yorker Fashion Artist" Michael Roberts. Photo by Stephane Feugere

Tuesday, October 04, 2005

On the Street..Jay Fielden, Men's Vogue Editor in Chief

Pleats Please!

Interesting article this week in the new DNR by Sandra Nygarad on the return of pleated pants to the runways of Europe and New York. As to be expected the most insightful comments are by a member of the Bergdorf team. Michael Bastian, Fashion Director BG Men, explains ”The men’s wheels turn so slowly that you get this weird overlap where the least fashionable guy overlaps with the most fashionable guy. So you’ll have the guy who never left pleats and the fashion-forward guy who’s just rediscovering them.” Bastian also notes “we’re desperate for a change of proportion” He feels that it will only take one designer to present the pleated pant in a truly fresh way that will turn the pleat from trendy to directional.

Sunday, October 02, 2005

Just bought the new Paris Vogue Homme International edited by new Creative Director Bruno Danto.
The new direction is much more sartorially savvy plus all text is in English so I can actually read my $10 magazine!
If you only look at one page it has to be the photo of Hollywood producer Robert Evans!
Trust me once you see it you won't be able to look away.
Bruce Weber continues to prove he is the best photographer in the business with a huge 24 page editorial "What Was, Still is...".
Paul Mather styled two very good editorial stories "All the Presidents Men" and "Young Blood".
Arena Homme Plus can you hear the footsteps?!

What did you think of the new Paris Vogue Homme International?

Watch Out J.Crew Here Comes Ralph's Rugby

Ralph Lauren has just opened New York's first Rugby store on University Place in Greenwich Village. Rugby is priced for direct competition with J.Crew and Ralph's other more Modernist Club Monaco chain. The collection retains all of Ralph's signature styling but adds a slightly sinister element with its Skull and Cross"bones" logo embroidered on pants, as graphics on tailored dress shirts, and as patches that can be sewn on for a small additional charge. Does that count as MTM?. The overall look is Ralph meets the Libertines( A Jeffery's designer label favorite).

Uptown, Downtown, Eastside now Westside. Ralph will soon give his vintage inspired RRL collection another try in the West Village. This time RRL will join two recently opened Ralph Lauren Collection stores (Men's and Women's) on the newly chic Bleecker Street. Construction crews are busy "aging" the site to perfection right now.

Saturday, October 01, 2005

Patrick McDonald at New York Fashion Week

I don't even know where to start with this look. I'm just glad we still have truly, literally colorful characters like Mr. McDonald still Dandifying our streets.
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