Luciano Barbera Preview Fall 2006

So I go to Barbera today for a preview and see Michal Sestak (above) who heads up the showroom in New York. In my day I was pretty good in the showroom but I have nothing on Michal. You don't feel like Michal is ever "selling" you, his secret is how he involves you in the sale. I'm not really sample size but when he hands me a doubleface cashmere sportcoat he says in his Italianish accent "try on the jacket, enjoy the moment". When he talks about the most expensive item in the collection, a cashmere overcoat, he says you buy it "no shame, no regrets". Damn, why couldn't I think of those things to say during an appointment. The best I could ever come up with was,,,"it goes nice with jeans".

On The Street......Hudson Street, New York

On The Street......Broadway, New York

At The Designer Collective -The Italian Gentleman

Michael Bastian Fall 2006 Preview - The Modern Tuxedo

Does anyone really notice what the guys are wearing at the Golden Globes or Oscars? I love this tuxedo because I'm mad for DB suits right now and the contrast of the skinny black lapels against the charcoal wool is really outstanding. More than anything though this tux is all about fit: tight in the ribcage, slim in the sleeves and high in the button stance.

Just don't wear this if Scarlett Johansson is your date because no one will ever notice it.

Ralph Lauren To The Runway For The First Time In 30 Years

As if to reinforce ,or more like anchor, the New York Menswear Revival that I have been focusing on lately, WWD reports that for the first time in 30 years Ralph Lauren will stage a menswear runway in New York on Feb 6th at 4pm.

On The Street......Little West 12th St.

Dries Van Noten, Fall 2006

I love to see a designer stretch, try something new. Dries Van Noten has become a master at ethnic references, and colorful cultural mixes in his collections. This season he showed a very subdued and tonal collection but with the same brilliant results. I know this seems contradictory from my usual call for menswear designers to be more daring with color, print and pattern but since Dries Van Noten has done just about everything possible in those areas somber was one of the only directions left to go.

The shoes are great, the band collar shirt seems new when mixed with the tiny suit, the outerwear is particularly strong, I think this is the first time I've seen denim on his runway, and again more great double-breasted suits.

Michael Bastian Fall 2006 Preview - Sportswear

Designer Collective

I don't know why these guys felt like posing by a giant pair of pants would make a great picture but who am I to judge? Maybe it is an Italian thing.

Albanese Meats & Poultry, Nolita, New York

Albanese Meats & Poultry has been in Nolita since it was called the Lower East Side. The butcher in the photo grew up in the neighborhood and his mom ran Albanese until she was 97. This is the real old-school neighborhood butcher not like todays gleaming white medical meat morgues of huge supermarkets. He was telling me how the whole street on Elizabeth use to be little food shops. Across the street was a Greek food shop that customers brought their own jugs to get filled up with olive oil and the same for milk. These leftovers from another era are hard to still find in Manhattan but they are so rewarding when I do.

Michael Bastian Fall 2006 Preview

Michael Bastian Fall 2006 Preview- The Detail Shots

-I love the Neapolitan sleevecap detail in the top photo.

-Mixing oldschool tailoring details like a turned under top-collar on a denim sportcoat is just crazy enough to work. The knit scarf around the second jacket has a Walt Whitman poem written across the length of it. While Michael was doing previews in Europe a reporter ask him if he had Walt Whitman's phone number because she would like to call him for a comment on the scarf. Truth is stranger than fiction.

-In the bottom photo Michael pointed out that he took great care to fit the knits and vests to hit right at the waist.

On The Street......At The End Of My Block

Sign Outside The Yale Club

On The Street......Wooster Street, Soho, NY

I wouldn't usually mix a pinstripe jacket with khakis but here it is done with such a "who F*** cares" attitude that it works for me.

Michael Bastian Fall 2006 Preview- Part 2

Above (top) is a peacoat cut lean and a little longer than the original, and (below) a cashmere knit v-neck with the silhouette of Frank O'Hara embroidered on the chest.

Of the three main guys at the center of this New York menswear revival, Thom Browne, Michael Bastian, and Derrick Miller of Barker Black, one of the things I find most interesting is that none of them have formal design training. Thom was an actor, Michael worked at Sotheby's, and Derrick worked for a photographer and at a magazine; all were in creative fields but they were not slaving away in the sequin mines of FIT or Parsons. The closest to fashion schooling was R.L.U. (Ralph Lauren University); both Derrick and Michael worked there, and Thom was at Club Monaco, a division of Ralph's empire.

"Not seeing the forest for the trees" is a scenario that so many young, formally trained designers fall prey to when they begin their collections. They have grown up wanting so bad to be "the next big thing", that they feel that they can only do it by creating the first three-armed jacket. I guess that by not growing up dreaming of being a "designer", Thom, Michael, and Derrick were more easily able to see the opportunity and reward of reworking already established classics, and adding their own personal twists. Actually, I find what these young Americans are doing is every bit a artistic as a Raf Simons or Slimane because they are working more with color, pattern, texture, and silhouette. Raf's collections, or designers of that ilk (Kris Van Assche), seem to make it more about overall shape and coming up with a new gimmick each season. Not that there is anything wrong with that; fashion needs that, but I don't agree that the Raf Simons of the world are on a much higher creative plane than that of these young Americans.

At The Designer Collective -Southwick Reps

At The Designer Collective - Buyer from Binghams

Michael Bastian Fall 2006 Preview

In the New York Post today, there was an article about American Idol and the young singer Paris Bennett. In the tryout she had it all; the voice, the look, the background, basically they figure she has already won; all she has to do is not mess it up.

I kept thinking about that when I was previewing Michael Bastian's debut collection for Fall 2006. He has the background (Bergdorf Men's Fashion Director), the support (Robert Burke consulting on business development), the production (Brunello Cucinelli will manufacture the collection in Italy), and the eye to notice the huge void in the mens designer market for a fresh take on classic American design. All he has to do for the next thirty years is not pull a Lapo Elkann and continue to mine the rich heritage of American design, and he is golden.

During his time at Bergdorf's, Michael kept asking himself why no one was capitalizing on American classics. He has a point; Calvin and Donna are American but they don't really reflect traditional American design; they are more international. Ralph is Ralph - he has created his own vocabulary and rarely ventures outside of that. John Varvatos is kinda there, and Thom Browne is a super fashiony version of Americana, but Michael's collection really nailed it. I guess the highest praise I can give it is that it is exactly how I want my closet to look. It is full of clothes that make a real difference in the day-to-day way that most men want to dress.

I remember feeling the same way when I discovered Giorgio Armani in '83ish; he did clothes that, as a young kid in Indiana, I could recognize but were done just differently enough that you didn't feel like everyone else, or even worse, my dad. When Michael tells his version of basically the same story, my Armani is replaced by his fondness for Perry Ellis.

For the next few days I will post photos of what I think are the first images of his collection to be seen anywhere (The Sartorialist's first scoop!!). I will point out some of the finer details like the Neapolitan sleevecaps, the return of the pleated pant, the cashmere onesie, and knitwear with a touch of poetry. Stay posted and tell me what you think.

At The Designer Collective

Welcome Back? Hickey Freeman

I know Hickey Freeman has been around a long time and they are a great business, and they are important.......to someone.

They have never actually meant anything to me, until now.

Hickey Freeman has begun an aggressive introduction of the younger, much younger and far hipper Hickey collection. I had seen Hickey before in Bergdorfs, (honestly I had only noticed the sportcoats) but the collection is now front and center on my radar. I love the ads (above), what a way to shake up the stodgy image I had of the brand. It was just about....no, it was....the best thing I saw at the Designer Collective and ,best of all, the prices are great.

For someone , like me, who doesn't have to wear a suit every day they have a lot of options.
I'm big on color, pattern and texture-they do a great job using all three, and sometimes all three in one jacket. I loved the olive/brown corduroy, camouflage print sportcoat that they had at Bergdoef for Fall 2005 and the quilted camouflage version for Fall 2006.

I have to make it up to the showroom for a more indepth Fall 2006 preview, I'll keep you posted.

At The Designer Collective

Old Man Style....Old Men Know About Color

Hart Schaffner Marx

It is official.

When even Hart Schaffner Marx looks good, American menswear must be back on track.

I've said before Robert Burke's work at Bergdorf Goodman was the most influential in the market and this is a perfect example of his effect. These HSM looks sure look like Bergdorf windows to me.

Just to make it clear, that is a big compliment.

At The Designer Collective - 3pc. Suit

On The Street......15th Street, New York

Style Profile.....Derrick Miller, Barker Black

For The Sartorialist, I have profiled several Italian gentlemen that have grown up with elegant dressing as part of their molecular structure. Now, finally, I have found an American with the same kind of sartorial DNA. Derrick Miller, the creative director of Barker Black, recently told me about growing up with a true Sartorialist as a father. Derrick's father, an artist in Minnesota, still changes his outfit three times a day. When he began research for the revamp of Barker Black, Derrick went straight to his Dads closet for inspiration. The Sartorialist asked Derrick a few questions about his personal style, and his Dad seemed like a good place to start.


Best Sartorial advice from your Dad ?
The idea of self-expression through clothing, using pattern and texture to create an individual look and style.

I only buy __________ in Europe.
Umbrellas (England)

You build your daily look around your ?
Now it is shoes (for obvious reasons), it used to be my socks!

The first thing I look at in another Sartorialist’s outfit ...
Fit of coat and shoes are always first.

I skimp when buying ...
Food.....so I can afford the tailor!

I splurge on.....
having a good tailor.

I always break this fashion rule.
Argyle socks and pinstripes

I never break this fashion rule.
Tie must always have a dimple and end at the belt line.

Must have item for Fall 2006
Barker Black shoes and ties....oh, and a great Filson bag.

Favorite store
Eral 55 in Milan...Genius!
Old English meets the Old West on Corso Como

Style icons
My Dad, Fred Astaire, Pharrell Williams

Most cherished item
Bull Dog cufflinks and tie pin from my amazing girlfriend, Jennifer.

Favorite item of clothing
Vintage custom suit purchased at the Salvation Army for $12.99
(Derrick is wearing the suit in the picture above)

Guilty pleasure
Action movies and the NFL....Sunday morning series A soccer from Italy

Describe your personal style
Sophisticated, with a touch of fuck you.

You feel best wearing?
A custom suit with high armholes, and vintage Barbera khakis

Personal Style quirk
Bright socks and pocket squares...oh, and my vintage welding glasses.

Dress to impress who?
I dress to express, not impress

Most underrated item in menswear
A beautiful pair of braces and a brilliant umbrella

Most stylish city (Milan, Paris, London, New York, other)
Antwerp.....everyone there is cool.

Never caught wearing?
A suit or sportcoat that is too long; I wore hand-me-downs while growing up, and it is now my pet peeve.

When I was high school I wore?
One pair of jeans and hand-me-down Savile Row custom shirts of my Dads

Shine your own shoes?
Always!

Sports?
Soccer, is there anything else?

Favorite fashion magazine?
Italian Vogue, Japanese GQ, and W

Cologne, skincare?
Bond 06....The one that smells like musk and coffee.

Designer Collective

At The Designer Collective

What is really impressive is that I watched this guy work an appointment for about ten minutes and the scarf never got in his way,

At The Designer Collective

At The Designer Collective - Duchamp, London

Derrick Miller Of Barker Black

Prior to The Sartorialist I owned a showroom that specialized in young womenswear designer collections. I represented designers like James Coviello, Peter Som, and Shelly Steffee; all of whom continue to be an important voices in New York's design scene. When I first opened the showroom in 1999 there was such an optimistic feeling in the air. Every new designer felt they had a chance to make it really big, and several did (at least for a while), like Miguel Adrover, Daryl K., and Zac Posen. Then 9/11 hit and the bottom just fell out overnight. Since then it has just been different; opening a new design house felt a lot more risky. Recently a few young women's designers have shown the talent for staying around awhile, like Proenza Schouler and Derek Lam, but it still isn't the same.
Surprisingly, where I have felt that air of confidence is in menswear, and even more surprisingly, New York menswear. Maybe ,in part, that helped the creation of this blog. I've met and profiled several of these young menswear designers, and I'm so impressed with the unique vision each one has for themselves, and how they plan to develop a profitable business.

In meeting so many designers through my showroom, I learned a few things: prices can be adjusted, assortments can be refined, distribution can be managed, and fit can be altered, but vision, real vision, for a unique product cannot be faked, either you've got one or you don't.

I kept thinking about vision after I met Derrick Miller, the creative director for the super hot shoe collection Barker Black. I didn't get the sense he had grown up dreaming of creating a shoe collection, but when two investors bought out a traditional and very old English shoe manufacturer, they started looking for someone to help them revamp the image. Through a typical series of twists and turns they ended up meeting with Derrick, who at the time happened to be working at Polo (all American designers have to graduate from R.L.U., it seems like). When the opportunity presented itself, Derrick took the proverbial ball (or in this case shoe) and ran with it. He quickly redesigned the entire collection of ugly English shoes into a line of really, really cool ugly English shoes. He incorporated an authentic crowned skull and crossbones logo that he had found while doing his design research, and upgraded everything in the make and design of the shoes. One of the original details that he did keep, and seems quite amused with, is the funny little bump at the toe cap of the shoe. He has also complemented the shoes with his own, very personal, take on colorful ties and pocket squares. Now this is where the vision comes in; most designers would be thrilled to have the quick success Derrick has had, but he is just getting started.

Derrick gave me a quick preview of the new prototypes for the Barker Black clothing line. It looks really good; I begged, but no photos yet. It is a perfect extension of the brand. It's modern but classic, suit based, and it fits into this new school of American design in that the overall fit is slim and the jackets are a little shorter, but there are enough specific design details that give it a very distinctive look. I can only imagine, that once he finished the design for the very first shoe he knew exactly what the entire look would be. The vision also shows up in how intelligently he talks about expanding the brand; which stores he does and doesn't think he can be successful in, and how he chooses to promote the brand( no ads, no fashion shows, yet). It sounds so basic but you would be surprise by how many designers begin companies without these basic concepts in place.

To get a first hand look at Derrick's work the first Barker Black store opened last October, it is a perfect jewel box of a space in one of Manhattan's coolest neighborhoods, Nolita. Using old upside-down shoe lasts (from the Barker Black factory) for the display of the shoes was a stroke of genius.

I really can't think of another designer that literally started at the bottom and worked his way up the customers body.

With designers like Barker Black, Thom Browne, Michael Bastian, Cloak, and Duckie Brown there is enough young talent in New York menswear right now to create a really special moment. Like the Belgians of the 90's and the Japanese of the 80's, for retailers to have a group to buy into and present as a movement in their stores will actually make it easier for these individual designers to succeed. I can't wait to see how this whole thing plays out.

On The Street......Nolita, New York

I'm not usually big on red but I like this. I guess it is the casualness of the jeans that make it work for me.

Longing & Lean

I love how everything in the look emphasizes a long and lean effect: the tie, the jeans, the belt, the stripes on the track jacket, even the white of the jacket zipper creates a stretched vertical line.

Giorgio Armani Fall 2006

These are the closest looks I've seen in a long time that remind me why I fell in love with Giorgio Armani's designs in the first place.

Lord Willy's Underwear

Lord Willy's is a new store in the downtown menswear epicenter of Nolita. Alex Wilcox ,the owner, has packed the tiny store with limited edition sportcoats made of vintage fabrics, accessories, and wildly colorful solid and patterned shirts that come (complimentary) with matching pocket square and boxing shorts.

Ah, the boxing shorts. I will let Mr. Wilcox explain them in his own words.

Due to the fact that wearing a pair of Lord Willy's boxer shorts has a
tendency to make one feel 'a little larger than life' our sizes have been adjusted accordingly:

Small is Big Willy's
Medium is Large Willy's
Large is Huge Willy's
and XL is Massive Willy's

Please have your wife or girlfriend ask for the boxers unless you are completely comfortable with asking for three pairs of Massive Willy's.

My Mom Saved My Baseball Cards and Threw Out My Bespoke Suit

In college I majored in costume construction, I made tutus, sketched costumes for opera, drafted patterns, made pleated skirts and measured and hand tailored an entire suit for myself.

Hand sewn button holes, hand rolled and pad-stitched lapels, chest padding ( which I didn't really need as a 20 year old male), hand stitched twill taping, that suit had the works. By the time I finished it, it looked like hell but I was so proud. By the end of the class I received the top grade, calloused fore fingers and extremely strained vision.

After I graduated and moved to New York my mom (like moms do) cleaned out my room and accidentally threw out my suit.
I still have all my Johnny Bench, Rod Carew, Joe Morgan, Dr. J, and Earl Campbell cards but I sure miss that suit.

All I have left is a 1/4 scale size practice undercollar with full hand stitching. Notice the extreme evenness and consistency of the stitches, that ruined me for future sewing. I still only know one extremely involved way to sew, so to this day, I still don't hem my own pants. I just don't have the extra time it takes (about 72 hours!) to do the job.

Pringle Of Scotland Fall 2006

When I thought about doing a review of the menswear shows I didn't count on the fact that I would see so little I would like.

That is until I saw the Pringle Of Scotland presentation.

Finally a show with almost no black, great color combinations, texture!, and great work with subtle pattern mixing. These are clothes that make a difference in a man's wardrobe.

I have always heard from editors that they would prefer a tight 12 look presentation rather than an aimless, no direction 40 look show from a major megabrand. Well editor, get thee to Pringle Of Scotland

Prada Fall 2006

Let's see....tight jacket, short jacket, short pants....uummm.
When I say that Thom Browne is influential.......well?
Seems like some very big designers have taken notice.
I can't quite tell what is going on with this jacket but it looks great.

Wonder Where Designers Get Their Inspiration?

When I first saw this guy I thought of Comme Des Garcons but I guess Miuccia Prada was right behind me.

Grey Refined

I keep going pass this photo when I'm deciding what to post, there is nothing shocking or flashy or dramatic but it just looks so quietly refined. I don't really notice glasses and how they work with the face but his seem so well coordinated. The scarf works so well with the coat and they both work well with his mostly salt and some pepper hair. Very refined.

Burberry Fall 2006

Maybe I have been looking at too many photos of Lapo Elkann but I'm starting to feel for the DB suit again.
Plush velvet for day, if you have the right job.....why not?
It takes skill to be able to use a weighty fabric and still be able to cut a very slim coat.
I love the "Flea Market Luxe" of this look.

Jil Sander Fall 2006

I know Raf Simons is widely considered one of the most important young menswear designers in the world but...could he give us a little design in his debut Jil Sander collection? I'm sure "they" will describe the show with sound bites like "wipe the slate clean", a "new beginning", "stripped to the bone" blah, blah-really, do we need 44 looks to express this vision. I'm sure the fabrics are superb and the cut is amazing but doesn't jil Sander need a more dramatic reintroduction than this?

Complement & Contrast

The top picture is all about the shape of this jacket, the beautiful roll of the lapel, the roping of the shoulder and the perfect length.
Lately I've heard challenges to the standard plain white pocket square; above Mory enlivens the charcoal color suit with a colorful silk print pocket square. The freehand fluidity of the print contrasts perfectly with the solid geometry of the plaid shirt.

On The Street......Meatpacking District, New York

I've always loved this shape of coat. Super slim sleeve and shoulder with a full skirt, does anyone know the correct name for this style? It seems vaguely military or riding?
I usually see it in a dark navy or black but the green is a nice touch.

In related news.....In reviewing my own blog I see everyone is wearing aviator sunglasses, I do also, I like these in white.
I hope I don't start seeing a lot of fashion aviators though, if I have to look at one more pair of fashion Uggs I might just fall over.

I Always Wore You Close To My Heart

When I wore you with a tie you made me look respectable.
When I wore you with jeans you made me look nonchalant.
When I wore you with holes in the sleeve you made me look rebellious.

Now the end is near, we both know it.
If you were a tee shirt it would be easy.
I would shred you and wash the car with you, but you deserve better than that.
Instead I will continue to wear you until my wife can no longer take it.
Like all of my old underwear, she will steal you away in the night and take you to a better place.
Until then, remember, I always wore you close to my heart.

Totally Modern Vintage (The Girlie Version)

This is another great example of making a vintage coat look updated and not too retro. I love the rust coat, green glove, and blue shoe color combo.

Designers spend a lot of time trying to design the three armed jacket but if they spent half that time on creating great color combinations for the runway it would almost certainly and positively effect their retail sales.

Dries Van Noten is great with shape (both modern and ethnic) but can you really think of any other designer that is better at mixing patterns and color? His soccer field size retail space at Barneys 5th floor is a testament to the validity of this concept or maybe it is just because he is a genius.

If You Thought Short Pants Were Shocking! Jay Kos Offers Spring Clothing During - The Spring!!

Jay Kos marches to the beat of his own drummer.

The fact that he carries absolutely beautiful suits is well known, but he also offers a very nice hat selection (any selection at all is getting hard to find in NYC) and he also devotes a surprising amount of space in his Lexington Ave. store to children's wear.

What Jay does, though, that is really unheard of is offering season appropriate clothing that actually reflects the weather outside.

Each season designers ship (at the request of stores) their collections earlier and earlier, to the point that you can bet the coldest day of the year will see the new Spring collection hitting the sales floor. I'm all for keeping stores looking fresh with new merchandise but the whole system is now out of whack. Some price-points have figured out how to do this well (like women's designer bridge collections) by shipping 11 or 12 months of the year but even they are really too early with a lot of styles.

In menswear this usually works in our favor, If you can just hold off on that seersucker suit that you first saw in January, you could buy it on sale (May 25th) before it is ever warm enough to actually wear it.

I give Jay credit; stores have always told me that competitive store markdowns really test customer loyalty .
I think it speaks to the power of offering unique products and strong customer service in keeping customer loyal while markdowns are everywhere.

So what do you think?
Do you like buying shorts in a snowstorm?

Such Great Old Man Style For Such A Young Man

Thom Browne, Part 2

By complete coincidence today, I ran into a young man wearing a Thom Browne suit( i could just tell) instead of the actual Thom Browne.

There has been so much discussion about the length of Thom's pants and the snug fit of his jacket but here is his work on a real person. The fit of the jacket is no more snug, nor the pants that much shorter than the guys I shot at Kiton.

On The Street.... In The Wild West Village

The Italian Version Of Casual Friday

It Can Now Be Revealed

After receiving a slew of emails questioning the objects on Robert Burke's tie, I sent the photo over to the lab that use to do a lot of work for Quincy,M.E. (I'm dating myself). It can now be revealed, Rats!

In related news, I heard a lot of comments that this was the first time most of us had seen a horizontally striped shirt work really well.

"On The Street".......Juliette Longuet, Designer

Adam Derrick Of To Boot Plans Growth Of His Company Through (gasp!) "Trust"

I had coffee today with Adam Derrick of To Boot (which most Sartorialists know as the best shoe store in New York which just happens to be nestled inside the best clothing store in New York, Bergdorf Goodman). Of course we spent most of the time talking about shoes we own, shoes we want to own and shoes we used to own. It was really funny listening to him talk about the horrors of a fine shoe fanatic trying to find a sneaker to work out in. Needless to say it ran along the lines of "do these make my butt look big?" jean shopping stories every woman can relate to.

I asked him about his business which he admits is growing at a very strong but manageable rate. Of course my next question was "what's next? " I can't tell you how many times I've heard first hand or have read about these huge completely unrealistic expansion plans; New stores, more ads, new product lines, blah,blah, blah. Adam on the other hand, without a second's hesitation, says to me "build more trust with my existing accounts." So simple, so effective and so achievable a plan.

Adam confesses to not knowing all the minutiae of every door of Nordstrom or Saks or speciality stores that he is in but he does know he customer, no matter where they are in the country. By focusing on building trust, Adam has been able to get his buyers to literally "buy into" his vision of what is right for the To Boot customer in their store. If you have ever dealt with store owners or buyers it sounds like an easy thing to do but it really is not. With how the balance of power is in the business though right now, it is brilliant to focus on this because he will have to answer for it at the dreaded end-of-season gross margin meeting anyway. It is just refreshing to see someone putting their focus where it really matters, the customers they already have.