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Michael Bastian Fall 2006 Preview - The Modern Tuxedo

 
 
 
 
 















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Monday, January 30, 2006

Michael Bastian Fall 2006 Preview - The Modern Tuxedo

Does anyone really notice what the guys are wearing at the Golden Globes or Oscars? I love this tuxedo because I'm mad for DB suits right now and the contrast of the skinny black lapels against the charcoal wool is really outstanding. More than anything though this tux is all about fit: tight in the ribcage, slim in the sleeves and high in the button stance.

Just don't wear this if Scarlett Johansson is your date because no one will ever notice it.

Comments on "Michael Bastian Fall 2006 Preview - The Modern Tuxedo"

 

Anonymous said said ... (10:40 PM) : 

modern tux?

I swear to god this guy stole the blueprints from H&M.

Check out their website and tell me it's not similar! (Better yet, go to the store and see it in person).

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:44 PM) : 

Did anyone see this?

http://syndicated.livejournal.com/thesartorialist/30677.html

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:45 PM) : 

Hmm...it got cut off, try this link:

http://tinyurl.com/7dest

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (1:04 AM) : 

I don't mind the color, but there really shouldn't be flaps or a ticket pocket on a tuxedo.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (1:32 AM) : 

Hideous.

 

Blogger The Sartorialist said ... (8:22 AM) : 

I guess Mr. Bastian is just a racy rule breaker, watch out Mr. McQueen - there is a new badboy in town!

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:16 AM) : 

Two things:

1) I think the flaps and the ticket pocket give some character and interest to this jacket.

2) If you work for H&M, just tell us. Nothing against them, but their stuff is made for a party in a dive bar where if you get a drink spilled on you then you can toss it and buy another the next day. From what I have seen and heard, Mr. Bastian's pieces seem to be incredible quality and timeless styles that you can keep in your wardrobe for many years. I don't see how you can even begin to compare the two.

 

Blogger Meredith said ... (10:02 AM) : 

The charcoal grey isn't bad, but overall the jacket needs to be simpler. Something about it doesn't look quite formal enough to me.

 

Anonymous said said ... (10:46 AM) : 

I don't work for H&M and to be honest I am kind of skeptical about the store. But seriously, the cut of the suit and fit is exactly the same. Don't believe me, check it out for yourself!

 

Anonymous deeceeacolyte said ... (10:53 AM) : 

love it love it never seen anything like it. clever. great contrast in color and texture, never seen a charcoal tuxedo jaket before, great proportion in the lapels. :: what about that ticket pocket bugs me though?

 

Anonymous Rob said ... (11:24 AM) : 

That jacket calls attention to itself in all the wrong ways. It looks dated already, like a tacky rental tux from the 70's. I feel like Mr. Bastian is breaking rules without a plan - so many of these pieces have me asking: why?

 

Blogger The Sartorialist said ... (1:21 PM) : 

This is exactly what I was talking about, most tuxedos are sooo boring as to be basically unnoticeable, you don't even give them a second thought, this one is just different enough.
I hate talking about stars and what they wear, but I could absolutely see Jude Law picking up his best actor Oscar for Alfie in this tux. He got nominated for that right?

And please if saying that this is produced in Italy by the same factories that create Brunello Cuncinelli isn't enough to stomp out even one tiny bit of comparison to H&M then someone needs a class in textiles 101

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (2:57 PM) : 

Another ad for Bastian, Cucinelli, Burke, and (why not) Browne...

What seems to be dated is the narrow scope of this blog.

As for quality, your not pulling the cashmere over this reader's eyes. I'm in "the business", Italian, and am very familiar with Cucinelli & co. and can assure you that quality is not the selling point.

What's mostly built into the price (as is usually the case)is hype.

So please don't insult the other readers. Let hear more about the fantastic products with superb quality that the Burke's and co. neglect. Trust me, they're out there...

p.s.: I sell to BG, so I'm not scorned.

xoxo

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (3:00 PM) : 

p.p.s.: judging by the way the chest is pulling at the armhole, this coat doesn't scream quality to me at least. I'll take H&M for those spills instead and use the change for the good stuff.

 

Blogger The Sartorialist said ... (3:48 PM) : 

Yes - the narrow scope of this blog, Albanese Meat & Poultry, 80 year old men in Chinatown, women's, skaters - someone lift my blinders! I'm sure someone in the business can see the worthiness of being the first to show images of this collection, I guess you haven't checked the archive to see the large amount of space I have given to Borrelli, Kiton, Vacca, Duckie Brown, etc. This week I will be running photos of Barbera and soon JPress.....so? I feel only complelled to write only about what I am interested in, should I feel any other way?

Oh, and since you are "in the business" I don't need to remind you that the photo is of a sample on a model. It could have been any model that the agency sent so you have to take fit with a grain of salt.

ps thanks for the passion! When I started this blog I wanted it to have an ESPN sports radio feel of impassioned discussion and responses. You don't have to agree with me just make a good point - have a take!
So who do you think BG is neglecting?

 

Blogger The Sartorialist said ... (4:08 PM) : 

pss "you can get this at H&M cheaper" is not a well thought out point.

 

Blogger Meredith said ... (4:49 PM) : 

Sometimes, they do notice what the guys look like.. especially when they look like this.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (8:54 PM) : 

Johnny Depp (Blue Tux)
http://tinyurl.com/exhvt

Gucci Men
http://tinyurl.com/8y4fv

Dumb&Dumber
http://tinyurl.com/dzgft

I know The Sartoralist loves DKNY *L*
http://tinyurl.com/d7zd8

Ozwald Baateng
http://tinyurl.com/ddvyy

Hip hop producer Jermaine Dupri
note the rhinestones?
http://tinyurl.com/bsswo

 

Blogger MrWynn said ... (8:27 AM) : 

Dear Mr. Sartorialist,

I, for one, do appreciate your coverage of new designers and I am saddened by the overwhelming negative response it seems to generate. It is hard enough for new designers to get traction with buyers let alone an audience such as ours -- people interested enough in fashion to donate our free time to reading bogs about fashion.

However, if you are looking for ESPN, I do have a few criticisms of Mr. Bastian's collection. I can't shake the feeling that the collection looks a lot like the regular Cucinelli product recreated in monochrome. Also, I have to agree with a previous poster regarding his or her comments about Cucinelli quality. The knitwear is fantastic but there is a certain "casualness" to their tailoring that makes me think the goods will not have a long shelf life. I have a lovely navy blazer from Cucinelli that "loosely" put together, I think to approximate the soft tailoring of Kiton, Attolini, etc., which seems likely to become looser and looser with the ravages of time.

I quite like their shirts but at the price point they command the sleeves should be set in by hand, rather than machine.

I will save my final judgement until I see the actual goods but my first feeling is the same feeling that I had about John Varvatos which is this: it looks like what I already have in my closet, consequently, why do I need it? If, heaven forbid, my house were to burn down and I had a pile of insurance money I could go to Mr. Bastian, purchase a wardrobe and none of my friends would notice the difference.

Now, I'm sure you are thinking that not everyone has a the wardrobe they want yet, agreed, and things need to be replaced, new needs arise, yes of course. The problem of the new designer is this though, you must create a "need" to survive.

 

Blogger The Sartorialist said ... (9:28 AM) : 

Mr Wynn
Your right we will just have to wait and see. All Michael Bastian will have to do is be a great designer to succeed - just that simple and just that difficult. That means making customers want to buy his product because he has done a unique job offering great color, or texture combinations, new shapes or given a great price/value relationship, or has injected enough personal references like his respect of Frank O'Hara to make his collection standout from the rest.

I think the comparison to Varvatos is difficult because Varvatos has always bee a division of a much larger company. Michael is an independent so his decision making will be based on different issues.

Lastly his collection is predominately sportswear based (I believe only one jacket body, maybe two) so the casualness of Cuncinelli should be appropriate. It will be an issue however when he begins to expand that section of his business.

 

Blogger MrWynn said ... (10:44 AM) : 

Perhaps you know -- I have been wondering this since I heard he started a collection -- BG made a statement that they will be his first customer. Do you happen to know where BG is planning on placing him?

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (1:46 PM) : 

Dear Mr. Sartorialist,

Call me a fool, but in reference to fit:

I thought companies selected the person to model their clothes from a wide assortment of guys sent over by agencies. I think it's called "casting"? Or "go see"?

These people are professional, and are in better shape than the average Joe. And the "winner" usually is the best suited according to the selectors.

Thus, if the jacket doesn't seem right on the "model", what's in store for the guy of the street? Mind you that guys who typically affords the "Cucinelli" price tag, Mr. Everyone, is not always in perfect shape.

As for quality, as we all should know, Cucinelli makes sweaters. Which means he outsources the rest. Which means he must profit. Which means he must pay his resources a much lower cost.
The result is not 'quality'.

Now big business, brand, marketing, etc is a totally different, and understandable, issue.

What I'm curious about is if you're influenced by the popularity of certain so and so's.

Otherwise, I'm with Mrwynn.

This said, I've no problem with Bastian, and I'll keep my eyes open. But I get a little touchy when it comes to quality, especially when it's often confused with styling.

 

Blogger The Sartorialist said ... (6:00 PM) : 

I would never call you a fool but maybe a little confused.

You are right that there is a casting but there may be three weeks of appointments and it is rare that one model can be used for all those appointments. If two appt are going at the same time you ay need two models. Even more important is that these appts for press and stores are done before final fit correction, if you don't sell any of a particular model why go through a final fitting. Final fittings are also done on fit models not showroom or runway models, that is why most Mr Everyday guys are able to fit OTR clothing.

Regarding quality, I have hand-made a suit and various mens and women's clothing myself ( see a previous post for my handy work) so I am comfortable with my assessment of quality. Are Levi's quality? mine wear beautifully but they are not bepoke.

Finally How many articles have you seen about Mr. Bastian before mine, 2 or 3? I have the first photos of his collection available anywhere in the world. I don't think i have been influenced by anything other than I like the collection. When I owned a showroom I worked closely with a lot of young designers so I feel comfortable my ability to access the potential of new collections but maybe more important is that Michael collection fits my current lifestyle,

I appreciate your response, I the whole model discussion may shed some light on the inner working of the business of fashion, thanks

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:56 PM) : 

Looks great! Finally a non-boring Tux. Down with the typical monkey suit!

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:23 PM) : 

I had an opportunity to preview MB's line in person...I'm not a buyer...just one who appreciates MB's inate personal style...If you had ever seen MB while he was mens fahion director at BG you'd have blind faith. The line, in my unprofessional opinion,is dead on...he's definately filling a certain void with regards to new American design. The stuff seems familiar on the surface...but it ain't RL it's not JV, etc..and god knows it's not H&M or jcrew, not even close. Not that you can trust me..but trust me. The fine Italian thing..paired with MB's styling/cut/detailing/impecable choice of fabrics and finally - wit.... is kind of a coup....MB gets it...he's totally clued in and understands who his guy is.
He's also a good counterpoint and complement to TB ...and I love TB too. MB is not about hype. I mean the guy hasn't sold one stitch..MB deserves a lot of credit.

As well, with regards to the dinner jacket...I'd gladly wear it to most State dinners or coronations.

The Satorialist is great for championing MB and other new talent.

 

Blogger Christian said ... (5:42 PM) : 

Quite gifted in the talent category! Did Michael Bastian used to work for Calvin or Ralph? I can't recall.
Thank you,

Christian Cerna,
Jonathan Adler

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (11:14 AM) : 

I have a hard time understanding why anyone thinks that this tuxedo fits well? A tuxedo should not be so tight as to create ripples in the jacket. You also have the dubble pocket which strides from the simplicity and elegance that a tuxedo should portray. He also seems to have a pot belly in this tuxedo which I doubt that he has which means the fit is poor.

I don't understand why one should where anything other than black or dark blue. This is a trend that comes from american "stars" who don't understand formal dress code (see every celebrity wearing a tie to a tuxedo or a black dress shirt). A designer who creates a truly magnificent tuxedo while sticking to the ground rules deserves credit.

 

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