On the Street....Tompkins Square Park, New York
I saw this gentleman playing basketball yesterday at Tompkins Square Park.
The mix of the black tights, the long (almost skirtlike) shorts, the wave cap pulled tight over a low bun at the base of his neck, the tight white tank, had me thinking more of a Givenchy Men's collection than the Knicks. I mean really, just change his tank to a white poplin shirt and it could be a Rick Owens or Raf Simons look.
I've always said that sports is at the forefront of what "real men" (read: macho men) would wear. There's a very simple reason...men will do or wear anything to win a game.
They will shave off all their body hair, they will wear skintight lycra bodysuits, they will wear shorts that look like skirts if they think it will help them win or fit in with the team.
I know a lot of young designers and design students look at the site. A great self-challenge is to step outside of the fashion world and go to a basketball game or football game without any preconceived notions and just see it for the actual design elements. The advanced sport-specific fabrics, the color themes of team jerseys, the proportions, the graphics; they all are fertile material for modern design inspiration.
I remember back in the Eighties, football players like running back Greg Pruitt of the Browns wore tear-away jerseys. They would go through several jerseys a game. Just imagine how Goth Warrior those guys looked in there heavily padded uniforms with jerseys covered in slashes, tears, and gaping holes. Just think how those uniforms helped reinforce the imagery of alpha masculinity that they wanted to portray.
As I was working of this photo it reminded me of a shot I took in Sodermalm, Stockholm a few years ago. This shot is evidence of the very direct influnce sports can have on even the most advanced street/runway looks.
The mix of the black tights, the long (almost skirtlike) shorts, the wave cap pulled tight over a low bun at the base of his neck, the tight white tank, had me thinking more of a Givenchy Men's collection than the Knicks. I mean really, just change his tank to a white poplin shirt and it could be a Rick Owens or Raf Simons look.
I've always said that sports is at the forefront of what "real men" (read: macho men) would wear. There's a very simple reason...men will do or wear anything to win a game.
They will shave off all their body hair, they will wear skintight lycra bodysuits, they will wear shorts that look like skirts if they think it will help them win or fit in with the team.
I know a lot of young designers and design students look at the site. A great self-challenge is to step outside of the fashion world and go to a basketball game or football game without any preconceived notions and just see it for the actual design elements. The advanced sport-specific fabrics, the color themes of team jerseys, the proportions, the graphics; they all are fertile material for modern design inspiration.
I remember back in the Eighties, football players like running back Greg Pruitt of the Browns wore tear-away jerseys. They would go through several jerseys a game. Just imagine how Goth Warrior those guys looked in there heavily padded uniforms with jerseys covered in slashes, tears, and gaping holes. Just think how those uniforms helped reinforce the imagery of alpha masculinity that they wanted to portray.
As I was working of this photo it reminded me of a shot I took in Sodermalm, Stockholm a few years ago. This shot is evidence of the very direct influnce sports can have on even the most advanced street/runway looks.
August 2007
Comments on "On the Street....Tompkins Square Park, New York"
Excellent commentary on this, totally get the Givenchy connection. Could be construed as really gothic.
Posts like THESE are why I like your blog.
-Stephen www.stitchesfabricandsoul.com
The link from basketball to the runway just proves that fashion inspiration can truly come from anywhere - your observation that men will do anything 'to win a game' is also amusingly correct. I applaud you.
and lets not forget the parallel of the high top sneakers and clunky shoe... you have to appreciate artists such as raf simons for taking an everyday concept and making it amazing fashion and art.
You are such a genius fashion expert. Your brain is the reason is of this blog's popularity, not the looks, or people, or even photos. Your brain.
You're amazing. Keep going.
Like! I saw straight away that the second picture was from Södermalm, where I have lived all my life <3
What an interesting point of view! Special vision.
Saludos,
www.eljovendario.blogspot.com
I wish I could carry either of these looks.
i love it to!!
xoxo from france!
I like when you add your commentary and inspiration!!
love the first look! :P
Loving the second look. His sparkling jacket reminds me of the sport must be after parties.
theBohmerian
great style
Love the first one and the way he's looking at you.
Such a beautiful pic.
Excellent! When you see how men's silhouettes have evolved over the past 10-20 years, it seems quite clear we are no longer very far from the adoption of the man's skirt (perhaps in a dimmed version, like a jupe culotte : shorts that look like skirts; or perhaps as a pareo over trousers - a bit like a kilt!). The second picture adds another option: tee-shirts that become dresses de facto...
The question now is: which is the first subculture that will adopt the man's skirt & how long will it take for it to become mainstream? My bet is some sort of hipsters group (or the next generation of hipsters, no matter how they are known) / it will take ten-fifteen years.
http://davidikus.blogspot.com/
http://www.davidranc.com
http://davidikus.blogspot.com
Agree w/Stephen -- "Posts like THESE are why I like your blog". There are lots of blogs with photos of fashionably, avante-gardely dressed etc people but I come here for a different take than just snapshots.
I like reading your impressions on your pictures. Great explanations, and great point of view.
Check my blog, advices on fashion for all bodies and all wallets!
In italian and english!
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I'd like for these designers and design students to come up
with a stylish helmet that fashionable cyclists would
want to wear while biking
The fact that the kid in the first picture looks like a model doesn't hurt either :o).
Great post and encouragement to young designers as you mentioned. I especially like the top photo. He looks ready to play a few hoops of basketball.
I'm interested to see how your commentary will affect the comments.
Sorry, but not connecting a glitzy jacket w/sports theme.
Really clever observations, Scott. Thank you.
My husband is one of these men who invests heavily in his sporting image. To be fair, he does bike and running races. It is not just about the fancy carbon fiber bike. But he is certainly a MAMIL - Middle Aged Man in Lycra - and if it wasn't a bit weird, he would probably dress like that all the time. After all, he looks like he can jump higher than anyone else at the office. Now I will tell him about how his get-up are Sartorialist-worthy. He will be chuffed.
Thanks for the 'sportif' post. My childhood was sport-centric. I was fascinated by the uniforms. I didn't know it at the time, but it was part of my aesthetic development.
great looks
that was very interesting to read since i am from a country where male female distinctions are firmly defined and cricket seems to be a religion not just a game..i remember i loved playing basketball in school and the guys somehow didn't..they were always more into cricket and football.
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¡great outfit!,very sport couture
so stylish!
http://amordedior.blogspot.com
I play poker with probably very middle-class, middle-aged, middle-everything American men. I'm even married to one. They do talk about what the athletes are wearing, but I don't think they emulate that. I also don't think that's to say they don't each have an inner peacock, they just don't get the subculture that's involved. What's up with the tattoos? (I was surprised not to see any on your subject) What's up with the leggings/tights? At first the basketball players were getting away with it (after having been reprimanded) by saying it was injury related or a preventative. Doctor's note included! (Don't ever say the NBA doesn't have an HR department.) It's fascinating! Remember the scandal involving the 'professionalism' displayed by what sidelined players wore? What it all comes down to is this - I can't get my husband to wear tights to Ren Faire, why would he wear this?
The elegance of the young men doesn't hurt the clothing at all, of course.
Wonderful post. I loved hearing your thoughts on design and the different places where we can look for aesthetic inspiration. I am trying to do the same thing in my work/on my blog. And the pictures you've included are so graceful, which is a wonderful contrast with your subject matter. So enjoyed this!
Kate
www.thestyley.com
such a great post!
i love that sporty look on both men and women
fashion blog KIRA LILLY
Love the 2nd pic ;)
MUST HAVE: Blondie's Back x IRM Design http://magmoiselle.fr
I think this is your best post of the year so far. Non-'high' fashion with a considered opinion of why it works so well. Sart, I salute you.
I really love seeing your links between everyday life and the fashion world-i would never see a sports outfit like that as an inspiration for design.
Like others have mentioned, i find myself vastly more excited and engaged in your posts when you include even the slightest bit of commentary on your photos. It's so much more interesting to get a bit of insight into what inspired you to take the photo. I'm sure given your busy schedule it's not always possible to write a small blurb with every photo, but it is certainly appreciated.
Great insight and a wonderful post!
in the movie, ferris bueller's day off, cameron wears a football jersey with khakis. i've never had a bigger crush.
Perfectly said...
xxx
CEO
http://www.christinaelaine.com/
tomkins is one of the best people watching spots in the entire city. i love the photograph. super fantastic.
xx, http://wordbyjessie.com
Good insight on this. I never thought that mens athletic wear would inspire fashion, but that's whats so dope about it. You can get inspiration from anywhere.
windowshopz.com
wonderful post!
love, selina
http://selinaderuijter.blogspot.com/
Nice sweater very fashion!...
http://mertxehernandez.blogspot.com/
lovely blog.
Anna xoxo
I love this post. Please post something like this more!!! I love your comparisons and analytical skills.
Thanks!!
@Davidikus:
Hippie guys have been wearing skirts to festivals since well, forever. Take a quick look at pics from Woodstock and they're everywhere.
As a teenager, I had a friend who looked better in a wrap skirt than I did, while still retaining every ounce of his masculinity. Men have a great coat-hanger silhouette for a-line pieces. Look at that model who rocked all the spring shows...
But, I would LOVE to see Brooklyn hipsters try incorporate skirts into their fashion queue. I wonder what they would pair them with?
I love the look on his face.
I am so glad you brought up this parallel. As a soccer player, runner and stylist, I've seen these connections forever.
Also, very much enoyed your video for Intel. Inspiring!
http://susiegreenebaum.wordpress.com/
Other than the wistul look in his eyes, I am not sure how this man's outfit could be artful--comfortable but artful--no. Artful might get you a seat in a good restaurant--this is stictly "get sweaty, don't care" court gear. I don't agree...just--no!!
As a designer student from Politecnico di Milano and FIT NYC I would like to share that yes, we pay attention to these things. In fact, we do a 6 month study specifically on collars and cuffs that are inspired by sport. You have "hit the nail on it's head." Also, in my humble opinion, it is important to learn how to use the sport references in a combination of other inspiration when thinking of an innovative concept.
Best regards,
Luciana Grimaldi
The best part of that photo is his expression. Look at that face. There's a story in that face.
very interesting comparison, i enjoy your more analytical posts.
Love the commentary. The connections. Bravo.
I sense a new direction for your blog beyond the pretty pictures.
As someone who grew up with basketball, I would have never looked at this in a fashion sense, as this is a pretty "normal" attire for the game. And you're right, athletes will wear anything that makes them feel better/comfortable in their game. Very interesting to read about how this can cross over to fashion inspiration.
Thanks for another great post.
-Trung
http://trung-ho.blogspot.com
You don't comment your pictures a lot but when you do it's always a pleasure to read!
I agree, basketball and even sports have so much to offer in term of fashion and the attention to details is done to the max.
Great shots as always!
DIARY OF A FASHION STYLIST_
http://valentineavoh.blogspot.com/
I normally really dislike muscle-support tights, but this guy is making them work--I think it's the black-on-black combo & just-right fit of the shorts. (Those shorts are _hard_ to get right!)
Or maybe it's just that he's really striking and has enough presence to make anything look good!
The most significant of your comments was telling designers to look outside of the field. The best artists/creators (whether in fashion, film, literature, etc.) were always multi-dimensional, drawing from other fields as disparate as science or sports. Depth and breadth will always be more interesting than than copying colleagues' work.
Great photos from one of my all time favorite cities! :)
Your eye at your best. It's surprising and open new ways of looking. Bravo!
when somebody is naturally chic, he is as chic in sport looking ! it doesn't change anything.
http://monsacbyme.com
This pic this look is so DI NO MITE its just dashy!!!
www.shervinsworld.com
This is a great photo - the look on his face.
I also notice that there are no tattoos or accessories which keeps it more in the realm of a look that is driven by an activity, such as athletics, and not by a desire to display personality. There's a certain amount of integrity and spontaneity in dressing to do something instead of looking like something.
I agree with much of what has been said. Posts like these portray fashion as something that should open us up, rather can create boundaries, and THIS is what I love about fashion. Inclusion and diversity.
http://thevintagecampus.blogspot.com/
love the basketball player!
what is extraordinary is the proportions - he got them just right, and where did he find this very long shirt? if I tried to wear it I think it would almost cover my knees :-))
and then, no silly print on the shirt as is custom in a lot of sportswear things, but simplicity. very cool. very stylish
love, barbara
I absolutely love reading your commentary! Keep up the great work, you are so original!
Rebekah
great pic!
Very nice!
Aldina
Circle of Designs Fashion Illustration
most of the world looks to sports for inspiration and it often and easily trickles into fashion from the most elite to the bargain basement. think dressing in polo or hunting - the sports coat, boat shoes, skate shoes, ballet flats, letterman style jackets or varsity sweaters even the phrase, sports wear? think of the multibillion dollar empire centered around a man who NIKE spent to invite to endorsement than they had before on any single player. He doesn't even play professional ball anymore. sports gives us a second language with which to bridge cultural (financial, ethnic, racial, regional) difference.
I also appreciate you suggesting that people step outside of their norm and investigate the materials, looks, form and functions of sports gear.
*sP
The second is such a fantastic picture.
FSUDK.BLOGSPOT
"The mix of the black tights, the long (almost skirtlike) shorts, the wave cap pulled tight over a low bun at the base of his neck, the tight white tank, had me thinking more of a Givenchy Men's collection than the Knicks."
...and, this is why I continue to read The Sartorialist. Thanks for the fresh perspective!
I liked your phrase "men will do or wear anything to win a game. "
Thank you for your perceptive comment.
I love it when you reveal the thoughts behind your photos it makes your blog all the more interesting
The basketball attire looks like something I had on over the weekend.
FA
BU
LOUS!
I love the cardigan in the second photo! It's fabulous! :D
Looks very comfy, who knew fashion can
be that too.
Wow. He is kind of working the Genghis Khan look. I like it.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. This is fabulous.
LOVE everything about this post. LOVE LOVE LOVE!!
What a great homage to sports fashion!!!
My boyfriend used to play ball, and A LOT of the guys have been sporting this look for years, especially in more urban areas. I used to make fun of him for it, because we live in suburbia. Once he sees this post, he's going to rub it in my face for so long!! haha.
What I see in the first photo is a return to the early 20th century look of sports. Men then used to wear those long shorts and hair-coverings. He would fit right in with the fashion then. I much prefer the short shorts of the basketball players like Larry Byrd and Kevin McHale in the period when they were on top. Much better looking outfits. The ones now just look like the pants are about to fall off - and on occasion they do. I still remember one day in rush hour traffic a young guy wearing the low fitting pants had to change a tire. He bent over to jack the car up and his pants fell down right at the height of rush hour.
watch him get scouted for runway now... wonder if he'll trade his hoop dreams for the catwalk :)
http://fixyourfacemakeup.blogspot.com/
fantastic insight. please give commentary more.
I know a lot of young designers and design students look at the site. A great self-challenge is to step outside of the fashion world and go to a basketball game or football game without any preconceived notions and just see it for the actual design elements. The advanced sport-specific fabrics, the color themes of team jerseys, the proportions, the graphics; they all are fertile material for modern design inspiration.
Hotesses Paris
Excellent insight! Love the comparison.
Love the first look! The silhouette is great and he's really athletic, so he looks really good even in a sportswear.
Not very fond of the second one, though. It just ain't my type
Ah, someone else who has fond memories of Greg Pruitt in those great tear-away jerseys of his! (I think he wore them because he was rather small & it allowed him to escape the grasp of large players who could have otherwise just tossed him around by the jersey like a rag doll.)
I'm not a designer but have recently realized that in my sports-centric childhood perhaps the thing I responded to most strongly was the color combinations in uniforms--colors & juxtapositions that one normally didn't see in every day clothes. I've always had a visceral affection for the N.O. Saints simply because of the particular gold they wore with black, the way they looked together, and the way the fleur-de-lys on their helmet looked in those colors.
I agree with much of what's written - and I like both pics, two interesting and perfectly fitting outfits.
http://www.isthisitmodelsreview.com/
love the first photo so much for its street mood!
www.abitoffashion.com
Love this outfit. His cardi is amazing, such a special piece!
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Greetings
very true !
wonderful!!
i love that shoes and short pants!!
he likes funky and stylish
i really like how he successfully matched those shoes with the rest of the outfit.
nouveauskin.blogspot.com
amazing pic! but I have to say that the first is amazing and real and the second quite clown...
otherwise, is amazing!
^-^
I've never really thought of sports as inspiration for fashion, since I do not really like the silhouettes men wear in sports. Although, it is interesting that is has changed so much in my lifetime from the small tight shorts to the long baggy ones. What will come next?
- Meredith
www.findingsoulbalance.blogspot.com
I appreciate this post so much!
I think that sporty outfits have somehow bad reputation, which is obviously wrong.
I'm looking forward to some shots of outfits that include classic models of sneakers, I don't think I've ever seen them here and they're definitely worth it!
What is your opinion on AirMax, Sambas, Air Force?
Greetings form Warsaw, Poland.
This picture is friggin great, a striking portrait.
I was wondering, as a street photographist, do you just discreetly snap your shots or do you chat up your subjects first?
They seem pretty relaxed getting photographed by a complete stranger. Can you walk us through your method when taking pictures?
Robin
Come to Hong Kong and be inspired by our style!!
http://fashionbleu.blogspot.com/
As someone who knows far more about sports than fashion, I can tell you that this guy is not wearing his 'wave cap', 'skirtlike' shorts, or black tights to 'win the game'. There is nothing functional about any of it. If anything, long shorts are restrictive to between-the-legs dribbles and inhibit movement when running. The only reason he's dressed as such is because it's become the uniform of sorts for the inner city basketball player. Every guy at my local Y rocks a similar look. The Fab Five of Michigan in '91 initiated the look that changed the uniform game (again, it had nothing to do with function, but rather a representation of where they came from). If the point of attire is to win the actual basketball game, players would dress more like bicyclists.
Now if 'the game' refers to more to that of social positioning, then you're right on.
The sports saying goes "look good, feel good, play good" - athletics is more mental than physical, and team sports are all about gaining a mental edge on your opponent. Athletes look to project their playing style through their uniforms and garb - tear away jerseys project brute force, while a clean, sharp uniform projects finesse. Great post.
that guy on bottom looks so much like jeff buckley 'grace' cover. Both great pictures, I see the connection definetely..
basket ball guys never fail to put my eyes on them
Valentina Ilardi Martin also sports these proportions quite often (no pun intended).
Yet, it's funny how many men view fashion as a "girl thing" or with a stigma.
loving the 1st photo. he looks fierce. the look has a realness and rawness to it that makes it super hot. as opposed to the dolled-up trying too hard gimicky fashiony look.
LOVE your analysis of how sports, culture, politics, celebrity icons (think Michael Jackson/Madonna) whatever, influences fashion. I remember when cargo pants came in when the war in Iraq first broke.
Thank you for your comments re: the sports look influencing what's worn, from the origin on the courts to what's worn in the streets.
www.lizpr.com
Go to any park (especially any inner city park) and you will see young fellows dressed like this for comfort mostly. I never thought any less of them but a couple of buddies playing pick-up ball on a weekend afternoon but you, Sart, took things to another level by demonstrating how this can breech a new inspiration for fashion and style! It makes me want to learn more and help to see what you see when I go outside too. And you know what? That's exactly why I keep reading your blog. Keep up the good work, style scout!
- Vanessa
Project Zen
Unfortunately you can find identical copies of that man on any basketball court in any city in the US...those are actually called basketball shorts, they aren't worn to project a pseudo-skirt image. I would say the wife-beater was also more along the lines of uniform than innovation, but to each his own.
The ball player has an exquisite, soulful face. And with that physique, clothes will lay nicely on him.
Love the look, love your analysis! I can only hope my 12 year old son will eventually develop his own style. I want that jacket!
I understand the comparisons you're trying to draw but don't see them as original.
The sports world is highly designed. Athletes do not put their outfits, with their "high-tech" (read polyester) fabrics, together themselves. In fact, professional sports, with their megamillion sponsorship deals, is far more designed than the wardrobe on the street.
If non-athletic clothing designers do look to sports for inspiration, I hope they do a lot better than the plastic materials that wick perspiration. Those fabrics keep your body drier, but they wick moisture to the outside of the material so one has to wipe down one's shirt rather than one's body.
As someone who has designed, taught at the main fashion schools and was a top athlete in my Prep and College days - Sart's observations are valid and refreshing.
There are SO many other sources for inspiration than the obvious. Conversely, a lot of design that, while creative, is ridiculously out-of-touch.
Some of the finest fashion, accessory and apparel designers I count as friends came from industrial, product and graphic design - not fashion.
And don't get me started on the gay talent myth...
Great jacket!
Ilona
www.fashioncelebration.blogspot.com
He is so stylish! I like it... Hm..This look not just for man!! ;) ;) I'll try it tomorrow!)))
I'm very excited by the sports connection to fashion as well.
Commentary reminds me of Alexander Wang's 2010 (I think) Fall collection inspired by the vintage football uniform. Amazing twist on his usual "casual young American woman" vibe.
I find it really interesting that you talk about thinking beyond the preconceived notions of design. I have been looking at various designers and artists recently whose ethoses reflect this idea.
Brancusi hated his work being called 'abstract' and said that he was simply conveying the 'essence' of his subjects. You can really see this when looking at his sculptures, e.g. 'Bird in Flight' which just captures that soaring movement just before take off.
Also, Verner Panton was famous for redefining furniture design in the sixties, which he did by mentally 'wiping the slate clean' of everything he already knew about furniture design.
I think this idea of forgetting preconceptions is something to consider in any type of design.
Like other commenters, I really enjoy reading your comment on the photos, and the discussions that they raise.
Thank you for a great blog!
I love the looks derived from scuba wear. It is a flattering cut and fresh looking. Also, the looks from equestrian sports have proven interesting over decades. Sports have a way of invigorating the fashion world. Consider "ballet flats"!
These sort of posts make me appreciate your views even more! Love the parallel you found!
great observation!
This cardigan is insane! I wish i could get my boyfriend to wear something like this :(
Very Givenchy, absolutely right! I do love the second shot, and how being over 3 years old, it's still completely trendy!
Inspiring!
X
Your views are infinitely more perceptive and relevant than any. Why is this?
And more importantly, why is Tim Gunn getting another boring show? And not you.
yep, but the player is effortless and the one above is pushing to much...I bet he'd spend a hour to get this outfit right(!?) and the top one seconds...
Great post.
Funny Scott should describe the length of the shorts as "skirt-like," modern basketball shorts are usually 6 inches longer than that!
His jacket in the second photo is so chic!
Love the first pic!
Love your commentary on the sports relation to fashion and the desire or willingness to wear anything to win. As a mother of a teen who plays basketball, lacrosse and now runs, it has been fascinating to watch his collection of argyle wild socks for lacrosse grow, while he piles on two to three long socks for bball, and is about to add long stocking caps to line up for track. Even though the lacrosse shorts look just like basketball shorts, they are different, lighter and are all about the "flow". Anything to win the game!
Gorgeous !
One of my favorite designers Alexander Wang gets lots of inspiration in sports....this is a great pic and a great post...
love the scenery
so unique!
check mine out too
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your blog ist just wow! love it1
The real fashion lover can discover fashion in any thing & so you are!i like your blog.keep it up.
I am waiting for a basketball star to bust out some serious Dr. J short shorts- That would be a massively bold fashion move- My guess is that it would be so fantastically shocking after years of bloomers, that it would very likely catch on!
Athlete man: beautiful choice and shot.
As a guy that usually goes shoot some basketballs at the court near my house (and as a former team player...which make me see myself on the following sentence "There's a very simple reason...men will do or wear anything to win a game." - and we actually were champions) I can relate to this picture a lot. In fact I have a friend who actually just played for fun, never was my teammate in a "proper" team he liked to dress up exactly like this guy...with the tights and everything. He looked really cool and I thought in copy him but this long tights are not really comfortable for basketball in my opinion. I usually wear them in football matches with friends. The one already mentioned included...and still with tights hehe
Oh brother! The sequin cardigan is plain ridiculous looking. Give me a break.
Has it been mentioned that the first subject may be wearing compression socks?
My husband wears them for running. I think it has to do with aiding his circulation and thus facilitating more oxygen through the blood and having more energy (he is 6 feet four inches tall).
You are spot on! Love your work.
Happy to see your blog as it is just what I’ve looking for and excited to read all the posts. I am looking forward to another great article from you.
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