At Haider Ackermann
Haider Ackermann was the best show I've seen in Paris so far.This was one of the few shows this season that ended in a spontaneous burst of applause, so i guess everyone else liked it too.
I loved the color
I love the mix of hard-edge leathers with seriously sexy dresses.
I loved his focus on different erogenous zones like the belly button....
...or the hipbone...
...or the back...
...or side-cleavage...
This show will take Haider to a whole new level.
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post a commentLOve the colors and the details
I totally loved it too!
I loved the chic Japanese warrior robes and the large kimono jackets!
His soft lines and the elegant movement of the dresses reminded me in a way of Yves Saint Laurent and Lanvin.
agreed.
and he does really lift women.
agree!
Amazing show
Amazing. Great colors in photos!
The materials are opulent, so lush! Still not sure about side cleavage though...
Great snaps of an arresting show. Ackermann's wory is very unusual, sort of 'Blade Runner' chic.
www.thearchblog.com
He really took it to another level, the colors are vibrant and the garments are sexy. Loved the collection. Thanks for sharing with us. Amazing!
It was amazing, I agree! It's colorful, laid-back, deconstructive and super powerful!
http://myfashioninsider.blogspot.com/
Wow. I love the drama of the second-to-last look with the horizontal stripes.
The model in the third look walked quite a few of the London shows I went to.
Michelle
whoisbobbparris.blogspot.com
absolutely stunning clothes.
www.rubyccino.blogspot.com
very strong collection.
Very sexy!
Amazing collection! His work is just awesome!
absolutely in love with that collection!
This collection is simply stunning!
Love everything of it... and that black and white picture has left me breathless.
Vikki
http://stylometre.blogspot.com
Very sophisticated!
--Nolita Vintage--
rock and glamorous style! Is perfect!!
http://callmetraveler.blogspot.com/
Amazing frabrics !!
http://elleandco.blogspot.com
your photos are always amazing
but I love most your street fashion photos
all born in the street...you are the number one
I agree, the collection is gorgeous... but...
The models he chose are way to thin, they're like walking skelettons, and I don't see anything sexy about them, despite the clothes... I know that models are a size 0, and it's not gonna change, but... they don't look healthy, mainly the ones chosen for this show.
Look qt the hipbone or the side cleavage, they have children-like bodies, this is a real shame...
I love the collection, but I find his choice of models pityful and a very bad exemple for the new generation.
Sublime! great photos! Bravo!!!
Stunningly sexy and beautiful.....
Beautiful pictures!
http://itsbellatime.blogspot.com
What an amazing collection. Everything looks so intense and vibrant. Thank you for posting this.
http://lhabitue.blogspot.com
:D LOve the whole collection!! Very sexy & strong, the colors are beautiful :)
http://style1509.blogspot.com
Live.Laugh.Love.
SO SM I love it ! Love those combination !
Chech out cool release on http://lemond1.blogspot.com/
Oh man, love it all. Thanks for posting.
WOW..thank you for taking beautiful pictures of these beautiful clothes. I'm a big fan of Haider Ackermann, he just keeps getting better
I agree compeltely...the best mix between chic and creativity, amazing!! The colour, the shapes and all the details make this desigenr one of the best in the world, and surely, with Rodarte Lanvin and gucci, the best of the s/s 2011!!
http://fashiondoesntexist.blogspot.com/
Fantastical! The Drapping. The Colour. The Flare. Wish I was there to appauld.
Just an incredible collection, I love the different concepts people can interpret from it.
http://bespokerose.blogspot.com/
Every clothes are great! Especially first one is so cool!
It's interesting that the other buzzed-about show was Jil Sander, which aside from the saturated color palette, could not be any more different. From billowing, simple silhouettes to body-revealing, complicated construction, the two shows are studies in contrast.
Wow, lovely clothes! I liked the leather on the first pic.
Z x
realgirlsbeauty1.blogspot.com
Who would wear these clothes? Paris fashion week is so different from NY's, London's, and Milan's. The collections are too avant garde, eccentric, and unflattering. Let's just hope the remaining "big" designers uplift the mood of this stereotyped event. I know it's high fashion, but so is Milan, but they have more beautiful collections.
the dresses may be sexy. but the bodies tell a different kind of story.
absolutely gorgeous! the colors are so beautiful and vibrant, even the black
His previous collections were very beautiful but were controlled & lacked the element of zeitgeist. He really nailed it on all fronts with this one....best of all the shows so far imho!!!!!!!!!!!
I love all the rich jewel tones! And the fit of the clothes on the models is perfection. It looks like a strong collection, amazing!
...best look is the tangerine evening gown hacked off half way to the leather pants....great moment in fashion direction this season!
I can see why you thought so. There are some incredible pieces in this collection.
Excellent observation.
A true artisan.
the clothes are wonderful but the models are some of the skinniest I've seen this season, horrible.
It's a very wtrong collection, really beautiful colours, and very strong shapes! I'm not sure I like it, but I'm sure it's not one of those seen and re-seen things!!
http://whatsgoingonmymind.blogspot.com/
The clothes are great - edgy and vibrant, but the dresses would have been sexier had the models not been so thin.
...the Jill Sander & Haider Ackermann actually have very common ground just a different expression...
PERFECT
Gorgeous, except the ones that look like adult halter neck dresses on the bodies of 5 year olds
I love how edgy this collection is!! The colors are amazing and they pop!! The cut on the dresses is very sexy, yet sleek! It is just beautiful!!
fashionanatomie.blogspot.com
Those clothes are un. real. Absolutely gorgeous.
I feel like the extreme thin-ness of the models also deserves some discussion, though. Aside from my (perhaps unfounded) health concerns, could these dresses have the same visual effect if a woman with an average body wore them? Could a woman with an average body possibly wear them?
I know that sometimes you've just got to appreciate art for art's sake, but these questions distracted me from the beauty of the clothes. That's a problem.
am i the only one that took knowledge how thin the models are in Paris than the other fashions shows around the world?
Francelyne
just saw it on style.com...
gorgeous!!
(i can't imagine what it was like to see in person)
he's 1 of my favorites!!
I was talking about perplexity that jil sander's collection makes me feel on the last garance's post...now the Haider Ackermann's collection make me feel the same way: very perplex... i think struture clothing is too complicated to me :)
Gigi from Paris
i love the stripes kimono! xxx
http://cestlamademoielle.blogspot.com/
LOVE that colbalt blue dress with the biker-esque vest. very well-tailored.
http://www.diyainherstilettos.com/
the focus the clothes give to the body is very unusual I think. In that way it's quite innovative (because the luxurious dresses mixed with bold and strong biker or rock 'n roll accents we've seen before)
Very sophisticated design!
I really like it!
Splendid collection
But the EYEBROWS!!! What did they do with the models' EYEBROWS?!
We'd be able to appreciate this more if we saw healthy looking women wearing the items.
I know this will never be published as you censor all negative comments, but please do remember the responsability you have by communicating to such a wide audience. What does that photo of the model whose bones are sticking out of her back tell us about style? There is no item of clothing that can make un unhealthy looking women look beautiful.
Agree with Annonymous about the bodies telling a different story .Amazing clothes,disturbing bodies.
Sure Ackermann is going high. His fall collection is also very beautiful, but this one makes a statement. Pure talent.
SOOOOOOOOOO Beautiful... ;)
http://deshistoiresdepieds.blogspot.com/
I am amazed and mildly shocked that there are no comments on how the models could be seen to be painstakingly (literally)emaciated in these shots. I know this is probably a well trodden discourse amongst the fashionista and 'chi-chi' crowd. Yet my experience of reading the comments was one of discomfort at the 'club like' sharing of great/fantastic/sexy with no one wanting to take a more appreciative stance at the clothes AND 'critical eye' to the way the models create what was for me a set of startling images for a number of not so 'cool' reasons.
That said, Scott, you continue to provide for me in many other shots inspiration and aspiration, as well as perturbance!!
the models are too skinny to do justice to the sexiness of the clothes!
I know I would be applauding.
Or maybe just madly cheering.
I'm thinking about Greek statues. If Leonardo Da Vinci is alive he'd have dressed like this.
Lovely colors too. But the models are so scaringly skinny that whaetever erogenousness the dresses have, are gone.
Just beautiful!
BiZ
Caro from Geneva
innovative, colorful, and meticulous.
http://jimjims.net
Exactly where is the market for such clothes? A harem in Riyadh? A seraglio in Istanbul? An upmarket brothel in the 7th arrondissement?
Where?
I suspect that you are not printing the many comments you are receiving regarding the thinness of these models. I dare to to print ALL of the comments, for once. The statement this designer is clearly making is "DO NOT EAT".
The art of the clothing is amazing, however, there is something extremely disturbing about the over emaciated bodies of the models. The models "job" is to be a body in which to hang the garment during the show. The minute the show is over one assumes these women have real lives. How does being so thin translate into real life. How many of these women have major eating disorders? Isn't there a way to showcase the art without promoting the kind of body that is for the most part really not healthy?
too skinny models!
Fantastic and outstanding....but FEED the models please !!!
WOW, love the colors, the cutouts, the fabric mixing. It is fantastic. x
www.FashionSnag.com
beautiful colour / shapes but some of these models are painfully thin - its distracting!
The colors are gorgeous, the design creative, and your photos (as always) impeccable. But ... the women's bodies are positively terrifying. These go beyond the usual skinny bodies into emaciated illness. I find the juxtaposition of the luscious gorgeous fabric and design on the one hand and the perversion of a female body on the other to be very disturbing.
I agree with what has been said about the skinny models.
Sorry I don't think it serves the clothes.
i completly agree on the last few comments about the skinny models! very distracting and it takes away a lot from the otherwise absolutely beautiful clothes!
I adored this collection too! So sexy, daring and edgy. The leathers were to die for!
I strongly desagree with the commenters who said the models are too thin or unhealthy.
As a family doctor myself, and father of 2 skinny healthy girls I would like to remind them that skinny doesnt necessarily relates with unhealthy or eating disorders. Its a body complexion.
"The extreme ectomorph physique is a fragile and delicate one. The bones are light, joints are small and muscles are slight. The limbs are relatively long in proportion and the shoulders droop. The ectomorph is a linear physique."
That being said its disturbing to see how people can make conclusions about one model's healthy based only on ONE PICTURE!!!
Even more perplexing is the use of terms like "skelleton"/"emaciated"/"scaring skinny/etc,all of them imported from the mass media .Would those commenters really pay attention on the models' health if the media hadnt started this "elucidative campaign" on body shape?? let's not forget the real commercial intentions of the media, exagerating some issues that undoubtly exists (in a MINOR proportion), in order to sell their news.
I talked with several colleagues on this subject and we all agree that it is something taken out of proportion. How many real anorexic people we see throughout our lives??? Now compare with the number of overweight , obese and severely obese we see EVERYDAY!! Undoubtly the last ones suffer much more illness than the "skelletons" and costs much more for the taxi payers as well..
Ah the whole "skinny model" debate. What a coincidence, because I just wrote about this yesterday on my blog. But I will ignore such degrading comments so that I can focus on the collection.
I love the use of zippers and the kind of "pieced together" look. It takes skill to do it right. And the colour just tops it all off. Bravo!
http://red-soledfashionista.blogspot.com/
I think it's unfair to accuse Scott of censoring all negative comments regarding the models' excessive thinness. He obviously did not censor them (at least on this thread). And I agree with all of them, it just worries me that I haven't even noticed the thinness as I've apparently become used to seeing emaciated models on a runway.
you forgot to mention the rib bones being visible and sticking out. wow, that's just so sexy.
I can only take inspiration from the colours because the fit perhaps because the models are far too bony and skinny make what are probably wonderfully draped pieces look ill fitting. his previous collections have had more control and tailoring and this has some hits but the styling and choice of models is disturbing to say the least. It disturbs me too that you go about the focus on body parts without even noticing the unhealthy bodies of the models especially when you are far from thin yourself.
A great collection that launches us into the fashion of the.. second decade, for lack of a better word.
I have a stupid question.
You have the fashion of the 90's, the 80's, the 30's, the 20's.
But what do you call the fashion of the first and second decade?
Oh I am so glad there are so many comments regarding the emaciation of the models. I know the uber-fashionistas find nothing wrong with it, they probably look like thAt themselves. Ask most men, they find nothing sexy about hipbones, ribcages, no boobs and no curves. I truly find it disturbing that people find it "sexy" when women look like young boys.
Thanks for allowing a variety of comments to be posted Scott, we all appreciate that.
Your photos are, as always, fabulous.
lovin the yellow one!!!
i remember when penelope cruz wore a Haider Ackermann, and she was sooo beautiful!!!
I love the conrast between the leather jackets and the dresses. I'm a size 0, but I'm very healthy and I do agree that some of the models (not all) are too thin.
www.theafeminada.blogspot.com
'What do you call the fashion of the first and second decade?' - I think it's called 'turn-of-the-century'. But I'm not sure.
The shot of that girls back is exquisite, she has a very nice posture.
This shouldn't wind up into a debate about overweight versus underweight here--sorry Scott-- but I feel I must say something with hopefully some knowledge and experience.....
Ok, so I'm 1.5-2 stone overweight according to my BMI--and I also know I am-I can feel the fat deposits--I can see them. But my ribs and breastbone show through. So am I emaciated??? No I don't think so. It's the way my body is structured and where it deposits fat--this is a genetic issue. Some people deposit it more evenly than others. Some people are shorter than others.
I don't think these models are emaciated or unhealthy in look. I think it's often the loose clothing that reveals a little more of the body that almost creates this image. Like an illusion.
Have a look at most images of everyday people in the 50s/60s/70s and even the 80s.... and you won't see them as overweight as the general average is now. Would you have called them skinny, emaciated then? No. this is how the human body is meant to be--not carrying much fat. We have very little need for it.
I think we as a human race have gone so far beyond a connection with nature and lack general science knowledge, that we don't realise what is actually healthy anymore.
And as has been mentioned--how can anyone make judgement according to one photo--there is so much more to "unhealthy" than one angle shot of a body.
P.S.
Would also like to add that I quite liked Wilson's comment on the issues of weight disorder.
The show is amazing!!! And a great collection! But these are beyond skinny, way too thin and it isn't nice :(
Itana
woa..so what do we have here??
"she is not like me, then she is sick"...
"she is not curvy like me, so she is not sexy"...
that sounds as a patent discrimination, to say the least.
Since when is sexyness exclusivity of the curvaceous?
"most of men don't find them sexy"..Really?? how curious that all those skelletons finish their lives well married with a prolific offspring...
Though Betty Ditto and Pam Anderson can look funny/cartoonish for some catwalks , the work of this immensely talented designer demanded skinny girls.
nicely done :) like you said the details, the sexiness and the mix of materials. wow :)
Beautiful shots. Great work here, Scott.
Amazing design with fabulous combination of colors. The exposure of a part of body is taking my breath away!
http://remedyrouge.blogspot.com
(Streetstyle from Hong Kong)
Sadly, great design such as this is so priced out of reach that the people who would and could wear it best, are the very people that can't afford it.
Some aspects of this collection could be salvaged, and worked into interesting, wearable, even beautiful, clothes (jewel tones, mixing silks with leather, long flowing skirts, etc.), but, as is, I personally found the collection too "strappy," too fussily complex just for the sake of being "new," and in some cases--my other personal bugaboo--too revealing, though where the clothes would be worn (dinner party? street? work? etc.) would make the difference, as they weren't obscene, even by my rather prudish standards. How could the designer remedy these (in my eyes) problems without banalizing the collection? Is the shock value one of its principal attractions?
^"the work of this immensely talented designer demanded skinny girls."
right. just what the world needs. more clothes that can only look good on a runway or a stage and a figure of skin and bones.
anyone else heard of the "emperor's new clothes"?
Beautiful, although how wearable?
i'm surprised this is your favourite. don't you normally go for more flattering, wearable collections ?
just beautiful!
THE OPEN SKIN IS AMAZING.
http://dstrapped.blogspot.com/
http://dstrapped.blogspot.com/
http://dstrapped.blogspot.com/
+
colors, yes, however I do not appreciate the fact that this highly form - architecture alike and haute couture stuff is not at all to wear in any other ways like "strike a pose" on red carpet :(
I really like the flowing dresses and the colors.
However, I think that the second model is way too thin. Maybe she is healthy and all, still, I think the shoulders shouldn't look this way. I really like the third model.
you make me laugh
THE PICTURE OF THE B/W BACK IS BEAUTIFUL!! xx
The mix of texture and colour; the unusual cut and drape effect of the various pieces are amazing. And I agree that focusing on the errogenous zones is, in this instance, done very tastefully but would be far more sexily executed on an athletic figure of realistic weight.
I follow Haider Akermann's work for years and this use of the colors is so beautiful and intense as the spanish painture of the XVII century.Bravo!
this is all pretty fabulous, but mostly impractical. and there's the rub.
Indeed everything is gorgeous... Especially the colors, they're great. It feels like this spring is really going to be about color blocking. And the back picture...exquisite!
fashion-rules-dont-exist.blogspot.com
Yes, I'm a low on the fashion food chain, but this commoner doesn't get it. It's a mess, kind of vulgar and reminds me of an androgynous version of the Charlie's Angels inspired fad of the 70's that involved braless women in silk shirts unbuttoned to the belly--it was all just TMI. To my eye this is too much fabric, thrown together with not enough intention. I can't imagine what a mess these look like on the hanger--you'd need a numbered diagram and a trained expert to figure out how to wear them, though they probably look dazzling in motion. How do these translate into ready-to-wear, I wonder? Meh, I'm crawling back into my hole now.
These pieces remind me a amazing paintings...the flowing lines and brush stroke-like details are amazing. <3
Great. Inspiration for me to get back on my diet of air. Thanks!
absolutely decadent textures
and stunning silhouettes
The Covetist
Love the clothes and colours but I would have used more curvy sexy models ...
This is some pretty inspirational stuff. Maybe as 82brute says it is not translatable to readywear, but is it supposed to be??
While the collection is most certainly striking and note-worthy, I believe these styles would only flatter the typical model figure. Myself in particular would like rather vulgar trying to squeeze my curves into such styles! A lovely collection, nonetheless...
Sarz
at 82 Brut:well, a fashion show is to set tendencies.
only a fool would expect to wear the garments straight from the runaway (though some women does...). in the designer's showroom you will find the same tendencies diluted in more wearable options..
and later you will find the same tendencies in Zara and HM...
Very sharp colors, indeed But the zippers....I'd liek to see someone step put like that into the street. Stop the traffic now! Please cHeck out photos from Paris Fashion Week's homage to the Burka, plus sized women and linegerie-esque pieces or something like it http://bit.ly/cAKiY9
love the lines and colors...the chola eyebrows not so much
i can't imagine an actual woman wearing any of these. almost any movement could result in unwanted exposure, and without movement i bet these all look like half open nightgowns with some sheets tied around the waist.
Oh my god this is amazing, I don't think Ackermann is just Rick Owens' little brother anymore.
Clothes are marvelous.. but models are too much thin... this is horrible and really sad to look at them.
This is just academic talent, though I admit the adventurous cut and the richness of the fabric plus the beautiful colours really stand out. Other than that, the shapes are unflattering and unwearable, unless they are used as dressing gowns women wear in their boudoir. I suppose the designer can do more and these are just showing off pieces. However just compare the prevoius images from Celine's collection where design, fabric, colour all together work for style and wearability without losing taste for innovation and femininity.
Feed the models! Please!
The open line of the chest on a small breasted woman is so special. It is vulnerable in a unique delicate way. The flow of rich colored soft fabric is a perfect complement. My disappointment in the collection is the fuss with the straps and knots. I love the plan. I agree they would be great but it fails in scale and becomes distracting.
I have mixed feelings about skinny models. I like them but I see why they upset people. I don't see them as role models. I see them as possibilities ideas.
I am a straight man and i love skinny girls. so what??
I suspect that fuss about the skinny models would be ameliorated if the clothes were less voluminous. As it is they overpower the slender frame and seem to be meant for larger women. If the clothes were scaled down, the models wouldn't appear so underfed.
Some of the models aren't too skinny, some are borderline too thin, but can someone really claim the model in the second shot doesn't look like a famine victim? Look how her shoulder bones stick out.
very powerful collection, encapsulates all the seasons trends - love this collection's elegance with a sexual subtext
http://gramercyboutique.blogspot.com/
who'd have thought he can do satin just as well as leather? then again, when he can make leather look as lustrous as satin, it's hardly a surprise.
Thank you Haider Ackermann for these badass set of bold and colourful ensembles
x♥
http://justcrue.blogspot.com/
I love to see that I am not the only one who thinks the show was definitely worth a post:
the haider ackermann thing!
claude montana meets ysl meets versace.
I love your photos and the way they glorify bodies of different shapes and forms. So I am a bit surprised there is no comment about how thin the models are, they almost look thick! There is nothing sexy about all those bones.
If people like you would emphasize this aspect, and not just applaud the beauty of the collection, the being stick-thin obsession would maybe stop someday.
What cleavage or erogenous zones? All I see is bones. It's rare that the models are so obscenely skinny that I can't even focus on the clothes. That one in blue looks like she has a terminal disease.
Gorgeous dresses, but golly - the women are soo skinny! It's painful to look at - almost takes away from the stunning colours.
love the show, not sure about not healthy looking models
to each their own, I did not like any of it.....
Skin and bones...
But the drapings are beatiful.
AAh! All that bare flesh!!
beautyful dresses, wonderful way of playing with materials - but still i get sick when i see this anorexic bodies!
I like the clothes (but I find the models very ugly, I have to admit).
Anyway: LOVE YOUR BLOG!!!
It was a great show, All the girls will beautiful ans attractive clothes are looking gorgeous and sexy.
This looks ok on super thin catwalk models, but its definitely not a wearable look for real life...not my favourite!
I must agree. I especially like the hipbone part. Genius.
oooooh yes, totally agree, it's an absolute stunner. Makes me want to wear everything!
I was gonna say on the later posts that models are looking healthier, then i saw these images and nope, still keeping the anorexic ones. Disappointing.
Im so loving the colors. and i agree the brights with the leather really look good.
They are too skinny its scary. As a follower of fashion, am not really against the model figure but the models in this show look distastefully thin. Great collection though.
I couldn't pay attention to the clothes. I don't understand how you can all be there discussing the style of these garments, and claim them to be sexy and beautiful. Maybe on other women. All I see is bones and insanity.
interesting... What is that silky, silky stuff? It's so nice.
Non merci.
Love the the colours and the mixture of "harsh" leather and silky smooth silk(?). Though I can agree with the comments about the model's being too skinny. Nothing but skin and bones. But I think the clothes look more beautiful on that kind of bodyshape, instead of on a more "real" woman.
The clothes are OK, but the models - I was speechless, how can it be seen as sexy? These girls seriously need help. Although... I don't think the clothes with these cuts would be wearable for anyone with even minimal curves. Altogether - a big NO.