The Armani Question
Two weeks ago Mr. Armani spoke for the first time about his recent serious illness.
I really thought Mr. Armani had made a deal with the devil, because it seemed he would never give up the reins of his company.
But now he has cut back his working hours and will soon have to seriously consider his design replacement.
So, this raises the question, who should replace Mr. Armani? Who could replace Mr. Armani?
Jil Sander seems almost too obvious.
Tomas Maier? That could be great.
Personally I would love to see Alber Elbaz move over from Lanvin. He does such a great job with that label - but just imagine what he could do with the money, retail network and infrastructure that Mr. Armani has so skillfully set up over the last few years.
So, who do you think should take over for Mr. Armani?
I really thought Mr. Armani had made a deal with the devil, because it seemed he would never give up the reins of his company.
But now he has cut back his working hours and will soon have to seriously consider his design replacement.
So, this raises the question, who should replace Mr. Armani? Who could replace Mr. Armani?
Jil Sander seems almost too obvious.
Tomas Maier? That could be great.
Personally I would love to see Alber Elbaz move over from Lanvin. He does such a great job with that label - but just imagine what he could do with the money, retail network and infrastructure that Mr. Armani has so skillfully set up over the last few years.
So, who do you think should take over for Mr. Armani?
Comments on "The Armani Question"
Tom Ford.
nobody
Tomas maier is doing great great job where he is!
Phoebe philo?
Jil Sander- no question about it.
I totally second Alber Elbaz.:-)
Elbaz should stay where his @ Lanvin, and remain untouchable... Like Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton and Gaultier for Hermes.
Thiomas Maier is perfect for Bottega, he hates branding and they hate branding (at least in the form of words of letters).
Jil Sander moved to the way of the future with her director appointment @ Uniqlo.
Tom ford would never do Armani. He's already got so much going on. They need some who can successfully revamp Armani like Itallo Zuccheli and Franco Costa revamped Calvin Klein Collection, and why go with someone famous, go with a new up-and-coming designer or scout for an unknown.
Tom Ford
none else. Giorgio e basta.
Alber Elbaz
I know nothing about fashion but I'll tell you this. Whoever it is better have comparable abs. Wow.
wow, he looks amazing. hottie!
www.FashionSnag.com
I hate to even think about it!
Just wanted to say I loved hearing you on CBC this morning Scott! You should definitely come to Canada at some point!
I'm not sure. How does anyone step into the shoes of a legend and icon.
Mmmm.... don't know... but that photo is phenomenal!!!
now that's a dilemma!
I would love to see Tom Ford as his design replacement.
http://sequinsandbangles.blogspot.com
Stefano Pilati...
I´m willing to do the job! :-) But this is actually quite sad. I love his design, where am I going to find my dresses and blazers now?
A complete unknown who has worked with Mr. Armani for many years.
Francisco Costa
I nominate Gary Graham.
Someone recently wrote that Gary designs clothings for "poets and time travelers" (which seems to me the perfect description) and I'd love to see what he'd do with the Armani esthetic.
A finalist for the 2009 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, Gary's been designing since 2000; his S/S 2010 collection is finally earning him much deserved attention from the mainstream fashion press. The man is brilliant; check him out: www.garygrahamnyc.com
I think Bruno Pieters would be a perfect fit at Armani.
Jil Sander - Good, but just signed a deal with Uniqlo and her designs are too stiff for the ease of Armani.
Tom Ford - love him, but absolutely NOT.
Alber is perfect at Lanvin.
Maier is perfect at BV.
Philo is not sophisticated enough for the elegance of Armani.
I vote for Lawrence Steele.
What's Alexandre Plokhov's relationship with Versace? He's been quiet lately.
I agree, it should be illegal to look this good at his age...45, right? smiles.
If it weren't for the money, I would retire the brand because, obviously, no one can replace Georgio.
Please don't suggest that Tomas Maier should leave BV. That would be a travesty.
I vote for Tom Ford, unlikely as it sounds, since Armani used to be associated with sexy, and I am not sure when I see Armani clothes today that I think sexy. Maybe sexy is overrated now, some will say, but surely there is some middle ground that could achieved between the explicit Ford charisma and the quiet Armani elegance.
Jil seems obvious??
She's the essence of German asceticism. And Armani is Venitian luxury... Not sure I see the connection.
Godspeed, Signor Armani. Kick them all in the teeth. The moment someone replaces him, I will not look at an Armani suit in the same fashion.
O Armani o nessuno.
Pietro
It´s the same, Armani´s the new fashion designer will not can be alike
Nobody.
I would say an unknown first but I keep thinking of the wonder kid [the fierce kid what's his name?] from Project Runway for some reason. He has the eye for detail although he tends to be a little bit edgy for Armani. I think he would do a good job.
Wow, fascinating insight. How about that poor woman that got ousted from Valentino, Alessandra Fachinetti - she was very talented and had huge potential. I would like to see her given another chance.
Pilati...
Pilati
in house promotion maybe
Francisco Costa or Italo Zuchelli?
Definitely don't see Tom Ford at Armani.
Perhaps you should, Scott.
Jil Sander and Tomas Maier are definitely great. I'm not sure about Tom Ford, as some suggested. He's too much glamour and sex appeal. I feel Armani is more restrained, more simplistic and influenced by Eastern aesthetics. What about Albert Kriemler of Akris? He's good at structure but would step up on femininity if he designed for Armani.
Benjamin Button
Can't even think about anybody replacing Giorgio Armany. This thought hurts too much.
Anastasia Barbieri
I think ultimately whenever a brand has its figure head leave, the brand loses much of its character and spirit. Case in point Valentino when Alessandra Faccineti took over and in my opinion, disappointed the house of Valentino and his fans with her collections. An in house promotion would be ideal, someone who has worked with Armani and watched him closely for years on a personally emotional level, someone physically intimate with Armani the man and the designer. His nephew is perhaps the ideal candidate. But prepare Armani fans for the end of a golden era... it can never be quite the same again.
Tom ford can definitely give it a new course and maintain the signature look of Armani house!
Why go crazy innovative with someone like Christopher Kane or Giles Deacon!! Imagine the controversy!
Jil Sander is definitely the obvious choice, but i really don't want to think about the great man departing.
I'm not sure why I've never noticed this before, but Mr. Armani is a dead ringer for an older Clint Eastwood. Guess it's a little late for an on-screen collaboration, sadly ....
Tom Ford is having too much success with his own line to leave that for Armani
If Jill Sander is 'almost too obvious' then why not? I see no problem. Jill Sander is a great designer.
sorry folks, but ... has anyone actually ever touched an Armani suit and understood its construction? Still today it stands out as a revolution and hardly anyone has such an understanding for fabrics. Contrary to what may seem, Armani has a talent for understatement in his craft (!) that is at the opposite of a Jil Sander or Tom Ford, who are far more caught in looks than in craft-based design. Each have their value, but none can replace or follow-up on another, they are simply aiming for different things. So, the only alternative I see is .... hm ... yes, of course: io ! ;-)
Giles Deacon is the perfectl choice, he has worked for Bottega, understands the infrastructure of big corporations, worked alongside Tom Ford and Marc Jacobs and is developing menswear lines at the moment for his own label brand. He is different enough to be noticed but will keep the essence of the brand in itself - although I have to say Armani does not know how to cut a good man's suit - the trousers are so jolly baggy and the big shouldered jackets are unappealing. Armani menswear is not as good as womenswear, so Giles can only enhance the proposition.
Ernest
Armani is irreplaceable!
I would hate to see Mr. Elbaz leave Lanvin, I think he can and has done for that label what Lagerfeld did for Chanel.
I think Phillip Lim or the guys from Proenza Schouler could bring the label to the 21st Century.
Jeff
not alber ebaz! he does such amazing things whilst at Lanvin, he's my favourite designer, if he left it would be rather sad, however the potential of his work at armani is too good-jil saunder would be a great match too
Why would Tom Ford design for Armani when he has his own successful company now? I believe Hedi Slimane would do wonders for Armani, look what he did for Dior Homme until Kris Van Assche took over. Hedi Slimane for the win.
I would say Tomas Maier, but he is doing such an amazing job where he is. So I will have to go with Tom Ford. Absolutely brilliant!
Alber..Ahhh-lber should stay at Lanvin,where He has "awaked the Sleeping Beauty of French Fashion"and crated a super strong DNA for Lanvin.
Tom Ford...I don't think he can be bothered...
Thomas M.from Bottega is not the right choice.
No one has been yet able to replace Yves Saint Laurent...unfortunately...
I think Jill Sander or Hedi Slimane for Armani...
But...forget Armani...
How about Chanel???That is the question...
J.Naseiro
Oh yes.....Tom Ford! His injection of sexiness to Armani's time honored classic style would be a beautiful recipe.
If you really have to pick a successor, why not an Italian name? It would only seem natural to think of an Italian designer to replace one of the last great Italian creators. But maybe that's the problem: not sure if anyone at all could wear the shoes of the last great Italian creator.
This timesonline interview was posted to me at work
http://women.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/women/fashion/article6873270.ece
This is totally going to date me ... I've always liked Jhane Barnes' menswear.
Beyond that, the photograph is beautiful. I think change is good for growth. Certainly Mr Armani can see the wisdom of that, or he wouldn't consider changing anything. You get older and figure that when everything is over, it's not how many days you spent at the office that make a life.
Mr Armani is irreplaceable. It will be hard for replacement as Mr Armani will always be the reference.
Tom Ford was exactly who I was going to say as well. He was thinking about coming back to womens wear, I wonder if he got an offer?
Ralph Rucci is the only one that can touch Armani in workmanship and quality! Tom Ford is far to unimaginative and common for so rare a label. He is not a true designer, but a 'promoter'. That is my opinion, however. Elber at Lanvin is a perfect little fit.
Definitely in house promotion! Alber Elbaz is perfect where he is in my beloved Lanvin!
Wow, he is a goodie-dresser!
Romeo Gigli?
for guys at least?
zac posen for women
thom browne for men department
and check a designer friend of mine:
http://www.hhharryhalim.com/
Martin Margiela :-D
I would hate to see anyone instead of Mr. Armani!
Scott, you definetly have to come to Merida, Mexico.. near to Chichen Itzá. Yucatecans are quite a thing. You should come visit at some point!
He should bow gracefully and close the studio. The name and the legacy should end with the man, not with any imitations, variations or outright destruction of what makes/made it great.
Leave the master where he is, until he decides to leave.
And judging from that interview link, it doesnt sound as if he is going anyhwere anytime soon.
RJT
I also think Alber Elbaz could do great things for the label. His style is so artistic!
Johnny Drama would be perfect
ah, alber.. he's done lovely things for lanvin, but i don't quite see the crossover to armani?
La Fachinetti!
To be honest, I want Mr. Armani to remain. But If we have to choose someone else, how about Narciso Rodriguez?
Romeo Gigli.
Tim Hamilton's years of expertise in tailoring would do further justify the name of this fashion house. Both men and women's.
I'll do it. I'm aaaalmost finished with school
I feel like I need to go invest in an Armani suit now while he is designing!
In 2004, there were some rumors buzzing that Narciso Rodriguez would be tapped to replace Giorgio. I think he's a terrific designer, but I think the brand would best be suited by someone already working for Armani - someone who will stay true to the brand's image.
My tribute to Armani below:
http://fashionforwardthinking.blogspot.com/2009/06/suits-t-shirts-underwear-even-furniture.html
Jean-Paul Gautier. I even read an article by Ingrid Sischy I think in the Guggenheim retrospective catolgue where Mr. Armani himself mentions his name as a possible replacement.
Cloak! Cloak! Who's the Russian guy for CLOAK?
Alber Elbaz
Armani is a luxury lifestyle powerhouse with the ability to wardrobe you everyday of your life and for any event. None of the designers mentioned have the sensabilities or the business acumen to build an empire like Armani has. Armani defies trend. T Ford...too progressive and does not have the chic quota yet although the closest of the ones mentioned here above. Good luck with the talent search.
I don't think Alber would suit the
Armani aesthetic, don't get me wrong I think Alber is genius and i love love what he's doing at Lanvin....but maybe the head designer at Burberry, Christopher Bailey would be a good choice or some unknown new designer perhaps......make way for fresh faces and creative types!!
Sander..Albaz is awesome, but I can't see him on Armani
I love him! He's a beautiful man always has been and still is! It will be hard to find some one to fill his shoes.
Absolutely NOT Tom Ford. I and God say so.
ugh i just hate it when it's necessary to replace the original designer of a label.that's just sad.
ALL DESIGNERS ARE IRREPLACABLE.
What about Dries, definitely sophisticated enough.
Francisco Costa has the chops and the aesthetic, but Italy will revolt if the designer is not Italian. Marco Zannini?
As for Ralph Rucci, I am just waiting for next visionary Domenico De Sole type to snap him up (Wintour be damned).
The russian guy from Cloak is Alexandre Plokhov, and it's working on Versace's man collection...and I really do not see him for Armani...by the true I really do not see nobody else taking Armani's place...it's an hard choise.
no, not alber elbaz!!!! he has done such genius work for lanvin and i personally think it's too early for him to move somewhere else.
this is a tough one, needs a lot of thinking!! for me there is no "obvious choice" ...
Signor Armani proved his outerworldish vision all his way here... he surely has his brilliant business mind already set on someone this time too!
Yet, we can humbly try to 'suggest'. My picks are:
1. Luca Orlandi / Luca Luca - Milan native, established clientele, celebrity oriented... could be
2. Antonio Berardi - so Italian... he would bring great enthusiasm into the job!
3. Stefano Pilati - as YSL was not so groundbreaking this season
4. Armani scholarships talents - Armani scholarships are well acknowledged on the Milan fashion educational scene. I assume it would be the ultimate satisfaction for Signor Armani to hand over to a young talent supported by himself!
And Riccardo Tisci would definetely love to be back 'home'! Or not?! :))
I truly hope Tomas Maier will be left aside! Rarely have one seen someone doing such a great work as he does for Bottega... why ruin something perfect? Even if he would be perfect for Armani also, truth be said. Do we have another Karl in Tomas Maier?...
It's Adrian Grenier!
Riccardo Tisci!
Armani won't be replaced by a new stylist... He has already confirmed that after him there will be a team of collaborators that already works with hi
Olivier!!
My imagination is running wild with the thought of Alber Elbaz for Armani!
Very well said, Ramon. The ship goes down with the captain.
Pietro
duh, thats easy, lindsay lohan. i mean who else can take a designer brand to the next level?
Walter van Bereindonck.
it's like organizing your own funeral... high-end, luxury funerals, but still!
What about Lars Nilsson?
I think nobody can become "next Armai". However, I like your idea as I like Mr. Elbaz. It is very inspiring. :)
(but who will take care of lanvin then?)
Ron Shamask. He was AMAZING with menswear.
Narcisco Rodriguez would be my only choice.
maybe helmut lang? (i love his minimalism)
Alber is, to my mind, the best designer currently. He is an original and his shapes, while completely modern, still manage to make women look feminine and charming.
I have so completely associated him with Lanvin that it would be dificult to think of him in terms of Armani…until his first show!
I Love Alber Elbaz...He'll do wonders wherever he goes... and I agree that It might be a bit difficult to see him outside of Lanvin. Jil Sander and Maier,as much as I admire them, I am not so sure of for Armani. Great question though!
Alber Elbaz is the perfect call, Scott. Like Mr. Armani, the man can do no wrong. His clothing speaks to the perfect balance of feminine/masculine, sexy/sophisticated, fresh/classic.
I was thinking about Chrsitophe Lemaire personally...
Brunello Cucinelli
STEFANO PILATI, easy, done, hire him right away. Perfect for men's, women's, the whole shebang.
Pilati is already doing Armani By Stefano Pilato Sold by YSL. Give him Armani's team and his archives and we'll see something really special.
Nobody. Armani is Armani. I don´t like too much his work but I think that nobody could replace him.
I really believe it should be an Italian...it's true "Giorgio e basta". While all those other designers could do great things and surely design beautiful clothing- what I love about Armani is his ability to bring something of Italy into every piece, remeber when he referenced Sicily in one of spring collections, using black lace head scarves and styling the girls with wet hair? It was raw italian beauty.
who else can do that? any suggestions for Italian designers?
Narciso Rodriguez or Thakoon
What about someone unexpected like Martin Grant?
When I was sixteen years old, American Gigolo came out and I fell in love with Giorgio Armani and fashion. That love affair has last until today. Sadly, over the last 5 years I have not been as entranced with the Armani label as I was in its heyday. It used to be when Mr. Armani designed, everyone followed. Today that is not the case. Fashion is still a business. Draw is important. The only person mentioned that would truly draw my attention back to the Armani label is Tom Ford. Just because his past design work doesn't invoke the Armani spirit does not mean he is not capable of taking the reigns. His early designs for Gucci clearly harkened back to its pinnacle. I could easily see Tom Ford reincarnating the Richard Gere images from American Gigolo which originally enraptured the world with Armani. I know it would make me come back to this lost love.
bring on tom ford x
Lele Del Fabbro
When ever an italian designer , bring back Romea Gigli from the past, he invented the new woman silhouette in the end of the eighties beginning nineties.. soft shoulder like armani and great fabric research .. a true " alchemist" like is mr Armani..
if not ..
What about Martin Margiela himself, since he is not at his own Maison anymore thanks to mr Rosso/Diesel..
Martin does wonders with construction,and do not forget what he did with Hermes..
Armani and Martin are not about fashion but about culture.. though Martin is definitly way more modern and artistic.. I would wear Armani when knowing martin margiela would do it. it would take away the "dulness" of Armani.. this label need a constructive Boost..
Suddenly feeling like a very well thinking well informed "headhunter" : )
Amazing picture!
my vote to Stefano Pilati as he has already worked for Armani once, and he works the fabric like nobody else
I'd don't know jack about fashion administration, but my old friend Bradley thought Hedi Slimane was the bee's knees. I had so much fun calling him Heidi. I wonder if Bradley has forgiven me yet.
KL
Absolutely amazing photograph......he looks just great!
The only replacement for Mr. Armani, is a designer who has the vision of craftmanship,understands fluidity of line, sophistication.
Someone who has an understanding of what his label should represent for the customer of,today.
Thanks.....
Please, leave Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, its a perfect fit and he has already suffered enough at the hands of egomaniacs.
Here's another question: Why just one designer? I think Mr. Armani's global vision is unique and feel that those who have worked shoulder to shoulder with him for years could continue his work... after all its a well oiled machine.
But maybe some fresh air would rejuvenate the megabrand. How about having: Hedi Slimane for the men's lines (we miss you Hedi!), Fachinetti for the women's (I enjoyed her irreverence and personality at Valentino - though obviously not everyone did) and Jaime Hayon for Casa?
Whatever happens, Mr. Armani is irreplaceable, but I can't see him doing a Balenciaga and just shutting the doors.
maurizio pecoraro?
Olivier Theyskens !
Robert Chavez of Hermes to bring back focus.
Gary Graham is who it should be look at his latest range he could bring a fresh perspective to the Armani collective.
Oh No.....Armani is Armani...lui par lui meme!!!
Without a doubt, Tom Ford... He's the ideal man who could bring the glamour and sex appeal back in Armani.
incarnation of style !!!
ravishing oldie :)
Armani is a real Milanese fashion designer. In Milan fashion is a family job (think about Prada and the Castiglioni clan). So his niece, the beautiful Roberta Armani, will replace him. It will be like Gianni Versace and Donatella.
Lele Del Fabbro
Absolutely NOBODY
Ward Kelvin
Brian Reyes.
Either no one or an up and coming/unheard of designer. Man, he still looks damn good for his age!
In my opinion Giorgio Armani could be replaced from another Giorgio Armani in the sense that's impossible. Ir's like to say to replace Raffaello or Van Gogh. He created an inimitable style. Probably a "garçon" of his staff was instructed to or has the talent to succeed, but he/she will never be like the Master (see the Versace's case). I believe that after Giorgio -as it happens in such situations- all that remains will be the Brand.
I said this before but I think Alber wouldn't even consider leaving Lanvin for another company.
Jessi Gregg
ANYBODY BUT tom ford! puhleaseeeee!
Helmut Lang. Not that he ever would want to. Armani as a label should die, it belongs to the XX century.
Tomas Maier. He HAS got this natural elegance in his designs, Armani has build his company on.
Alessandra Facchinetti
didnt work out with gucci and valentino, maybe she will for armani
Giorgio,Giorgio,Giorgio.
Giorgio,Giorgio,Giorgio.
We need new blood in the industry it would be amazing to put a stranger in his post,appointed by Armani himself.