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Sartorialist Super All-Star....Yukio Akamine


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Thursday, January 10, 2008

Sartorialist Super All-Star....Yukio Akamine

Comments on "Sartorialist Super All-Star....Yukio Akamine"


Anonymous suey said ... (7:31 PM) : 

he's great! he's really "the man". and that cigarette on the corner of his mouth...just great!


Anonymous valber said ... (8:12 PM) : 

the foggy effect just blew me away. great shot! poetry in its purest form.


Blogger Delilah Garside said ... (8:21 PM) : 

Nice colors.


Blogger Marge Bjork said ... (8:54 PM) : 

I can't get over how fascinating his face is.


Blogger Rebecca said ... (9:02 PM) : 

It is a lovely shot, but is his jacket arm length a bit short?


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:08 PM) : 

What I am struck by is how both the silver foxes of the last two posts hold themselves with such a quiet grace in the picture. You know they were once younger tigers and now they are stately lions.


Blogger Slimbolala said ... (9:17 PM) : 

And the brown pinstripe? (It is brown, isn't it?) Dang...


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:17 PM) : 

frickin' scary cool
yakuza chic.


Anonymous ArC said ... (9:18 PM) : 

I gotta ask, what's with the Gundam statues (giant Japanese robots) in the background?


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:46 PM) : 

What a face! You can't fake this kind of coolness. Bravo for capturing and sharing this amazing portrait.


Anonymous adil said ... (9:48 PM) : 

wow....luv the combination of the color..from top to bottom..




Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:59 PM) : 

In the first picture he looks like a Japanese Humphrey Bogart.


Anonymous Ruth said ... (10:06 PM) : 

Wow. Now this is the proper combination of chocolate brown with blue undertones (that the Silver Fox just mucked up) that is highlighted by the blue shirt and really contrasts nicely with the warm-toned tie, gloves and shoes. Plus, great proportions on somebody who doesn't look very tall; a slightly longer hem on his pants might have made his leg look longer. Slick haircut!


Anonymous rw aussie said ... (10:07 PM) : 

The scarf does it again.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:09 PM) : 

Why do you continually glamorise smoking?


Blogger Mr. Badami said ... (10:10 PM) : 

all these pics from Piti Uomo are amazing but it would be nice if you could post the ones you've done for the GQ site here as well......


Anonymous treschic said ... (10:14 PM) : 

smoking never looked so fantastic


Anonymous tomassocroccante said ... (10:22 PM) : 

Brown and blue again!

Reminds me of how a friend of mine (one great dresser, by the way) used to say "Never brown in town." An old school motto that says, of course, that you'll be wearing brown at your country estate. La di da.

When my friend said it - about 25 years ago - he referred to shoes. We've left that rule far behind. For me the deal breakers were brown suede, the fast way to take the funeral/wedding/bank out of grey flannels or a navy suit.

But I always like brown best with a little color. Or grey. Or black. But not brown with brown.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:24 PM) : 

The last three men you have pictured are all wearing brown. Is this a trend?


Blogger thwany said ... (10:30 PM) : 

i love his stoicism


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:33 PM) : 

totally, agree on the background. though it's driving me crazy because i can't figure out what it really is.


Anonymous emoticondon said ... (11:06 PM) : 

dude is a G, straight up.


Blogger stacy (la, ca) said ... (11:51 PM) : 

Totally put-together. The Japanese men's fashion legend is radiating a precise classic style. But the cig, while the rakish diagonal detail that "makes" his personal style statement, sets a poor example for healthy living, and illustrates the source of the leathery texture of his face.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (12:01 AM) : 

it is hard to hold a cigarette in your mouth like that. the smoke gets in your eyes and you get all squinty. plus, there's something on fire which is really close to your face, so that's a little scary. he pulls it off like he was born with it dangling there.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (12:11 AM) : 

Cool looking guy, but the cigarette... well the man has to have some vice if he is going to look so perfect!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (12:19 AM) : 

If there's any consolation for mortality, it's the prospect of becoming a dapper older man.


Blogger Jenna said ... (12:23 AM) : 

oh he's so impeccable.


Blogger ilovesecondhandsmoke said ... (1:03 AM) : 

It's funny how his name means "happy" and he looks the total opposite of that word.

He seems to like his outerwear double-breasted. I reaaally like the way he buttoned his coat and the jacket below. Very, very nice!


Blogger Liesel said ... (2:00 AM) : 

He is the bee's knees!
These shots are so wonderful; I am captivated by the first one especially.


Blogger Andrea said ... (2:00 AM) : 

The foggy shot is cool, but I disagree with the cig. looking cool. blech.


Blogger Hundrednorth said ... (2:07 AM) : 

Browns to turn your frowns upside down.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (2:13 AM) : 

Talk about Japanese mob boss. All I want is to grow up with such dignified poise and panache.



Anonymous Anonymous said ... (2:34 AM) : 

Too cool for school--That cigarrette must be glued to his mouth.


Blogger Jocke said ... (2:40 AM) : 

Looks like the same suit in both pictures, right?


Blogger Doctorwild said ... (3:09 AM) : 

Not a picture, but a portrait. Bravo.


Blogger Shanghai Baby said ... (3:10 AM) : 

who is this guy?


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (3:18 AM) : 

DB is there , as you had foreseen it a jear ago!!!


Anonymous adda said ... (4:46 AM) : 

thats not fog! this bloke smokes like chimney.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:06 AM) : 

a special request to all of my co-posters: please (please!) refrain from the anti-cig comments. we all know already, as does the gentleman in this picture. thank you. I had to get that off my chest...


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:17 AM) : 

smoking without hands...since i saw him sitting on the wall with converse trainers and an ascot, i'm in love.


Blogger Cristina said ... (7:19 AM) : 

Foggy days in this period in Florence. I love it.



Anonymous Anonymous said ... (7:28 AM) : 

Yukio Akamine is a true sartorialist. Enjoy yourself at Pitti; it looks to be fun. Keywords: Azzurro e Marrone! Cheers, T.


Blogger Alice Olive said ... (8:26 AM) : 

My goodness, the mix of chocolate pinstripes, blue and the tan of his tie is fabulous!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (8:47 AM) : 

echoes of both humphrey bogart and dirk bogarde. Excellent


Blogger Pakithor said ... (9:12 AM) : 

Dandism come back!

If you know the rules, you can break it!




Blogger McTickle said ... (9:39 AM) : 

The half smoked cigarettes certainly adds a touch lung?


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:40 AM) : 

i love that he has a bit of a cigarette dangling out of his mouth in each shot


Blogger Stacy said ... (10:15 AM) : 

He ooozes confidence.

Both are great shots.

For some reason I love when people hold their gloves in one


Anonymous Joanne said ... (10:30 AM) : 

The fog in the background of the first photo is sublime. The wall texture is amazing, too.

The tighter second shot, revealing the background visuals and outfit details, complements the first shot, putting together the details of the mystery (man and environment).

What a great pair of photos. Nicely shown.

I love his colour palette too. Refreshing tones. That light blue is soft and brightens the outfit in a cheery yet classic and subtle way that is delightful to see on a grey day.


Blogger Suzanna Mars said ... (10:36 AM) : 

Wonderful Casablanca-ish foggy photo, fantastic model. He's got a great deal of artistic sensitivity (note elegance of hand)to go with that unflinching face.

Oh, was he wearing something? One hardly notices, so direct is his gaze and the pugnaciousness of his cig.


Blogger Paul Pincus said ... (10:49 AM) : 

So much of style has to do with gesture. I like the way he is holding his gloves in the first image. Suey is so right..."that cigarette on the corner of his mouth" is almost defiant! He epitomizes self-possession.



Blogger Karina said ... (11:06 AM) : 

Well, minus the ciagrette, he looks fantastic. Great shot, as well.


Anonymous mr. schemmer said ... (11:19 AM) : 

beautiful scarf! is it me or do DB suits make a guy look fat?


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (11:31 AM) : 

wow ... great!!


Blogger Jingoist said ... (11:32 AM) : 

Are these shots at different times on the same day? It looks like he has the same suit on (looking at his pants in shot 1 versus the suit in shot 2). What I really like about it is that the overcoat still silhouettes him so nicely even though he has a suit jacket on underneath- a sign of good fit in both the suit and the overcoat. (Though I think the coat is too long.)


Anonymous habanaco said ... (11:34 AM) : 



Anonymous Icee said ... (11:43 AM) : 

I miss your female protagonists within your blog. The men are of course, fantastic but honestly, there is only so much of expensive suits and neck tie's that I can take. :/


Blogger Son of a Seamstress said ... (12:04 PM) : 

He exudes style, elegance, and class. Pure gentleman.

Great photography as well!


Blogger Matty said ... (12:05 PM) : 

the he allowed to do that? (I'm sort of kidding, but seriously asking...and I'm not looking for any "fashion is about taking risks" even though I realize that it sometimes is) There are certain "rules" of menswear one is the "sometimes, sometimes, never" rule of buttons from top to bottom. I have a couple of pieces that I actually think look best with just the bottom button done. but I thought it was "wrong"...


Blogger Jack Daniel said ... (12:13 PM) : 

I like his style.


Blogger reverend dick said ... (12:25 PM) : 

Hooray for the brown suit! This gentleman has taste. And he wears the cigarette very well.


Anonymous Clee said ... (1:00 PM) : 

Looks like a legend. But excuse someone who knows nothing of the right fit of costumes; doesn't the fit on the brown costume look a bit narrow? I presume there is only one button on the front that is more than decoration.


Blogger Erik said ... (1:26 PM) : 

love the suit and the colour combination. but what happened to the cuffs?


Blogger James said ... (1:43 PM) : 

wow! I'm absolutely stunned, that's a great look on him.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (1:56 PM) : 



Anonymous Anonymous said ... (2:33 PM) : 

Bah! What is it with men storing their hands in their pants pockets? You might as well keep a football in your coat pocket; it equally ruins the silhouette. All the more shame, since he's otherwise beyond reproach (well, the cigarette would look more rakish off to the side, and his shirt sleeves are too short, but I'm quibbling). Excellent color and pattern sense, and it's a relief to see double-breasted suits that don't hearken back to the "power suits" of the '80s.


Blogger Kanani said ... (3:59 PM) : 

I look at this and I think of Fred Astaire crossing the Atlantic on the Queen Mary.

He has a natural and believable look. Like Astaire, the styling looks effortless, and you can tell he's most comfortable. Bravo!


Blogger Kanani said ... (3:59 PM) : 

I look at this and I think of Fred Astaire crossing the Atlantic on the Queen Mary.

He has a natural and believable look. Like Astaire, the styling looks effortless, and you can tell he's most comfortable. Bravo!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:38 PM) : 

I'm not an anti-smoking kinda guy, but just one question, does he always have a fag in his mouth or does he just put it in just before the shots? Never seen him without it.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:07 PM) : 

This is a dangerous look. The cigarette gives the whole ensemble a certain je ne sais duh. ... Savoir cançaire, if you will.


Blogger Pomegranate and Patchouli said ... (5:44 PM) : 

Well-dressed man..


Anonymous cacey said ... (5:53 PM) : 

My favorite thing in the bottom picture is the length of his sleeve. It's PERFECT.


Blogger lynn said ... (5:58 PM) : 

I bet his shoes are brown and cream with little holes in the toes. What are those called?


Blogger vl said ... (6:08 PM) : 

He makes that white pocket square look good with a blue shirt and a rust-brownish tie, love the combination


Anonymous tomassocroccante said ... (6:50 PM) : 

mr. schemmer said...
"is it me or do DB suits make a guy look fat?"

DB will help a skinny guy look a little more solid, and can make a portly man look more tailored. I tend to think they are unflattering on a) short or delicate men and b) guys with an extremely athletic build. Just not successful.

Matty, re: the buttons used here - he's inconsistent: the overcoat has the middle button done, and the top is likely non-functional, as it's offset. On the suit, it almost looks like the drape of that lapel is made to skip the middle button. But it's probably otherwise. So this choice is either a)a studied iconoclastic touch or b)just something that happened. Such as, unbuttoned that middle closure to get at the cigarettes or lighter, and didn't do it up again after.

A DB generally is cut to be worn with that middle button closed, so will look a bit sloppy in any other mode. (Think of Dave Letterman, of the hundreds of DB suits. I've read that his are all tailor-made [Canali?] - yet even doing his stand-up monologue he generally buttons only the inside, letting the jacket front flop around like an open book. Which only makes one wonder, "Why double-breasted?"


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (6:54 PM) : 

in the first image..well hes spot on.
as for the second..
the sleeve is to short for how loose the mid section fits. the upper arm of the jacket looks similar to walrus skin! and please, gentlemen three button..button the center. that poor fabric is screaming to be released! im sure its a nice jacket, just not with this fit. the shoulder is the only thing in this shot that works. the "silver fox" does it how it should be done.

as for the sure this nice man is a quarter the age he looks! to me he looks 80.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (7:35 PM) : 

Regarding his sleeves: I think an argument could be made that his (visible) jacket sleeve is just bunched up a little, rather than being cut too short. However, his shirt sleeve is definitely too short. Barrel cuffs like this should reach the base of the thumb (where the thumb bone diverges from the wrist). It should also extend 1/2" from the jacket sleeve (French cuffs and more daring wearers can go to 3/4"). He's a good 1/2" inch away from the thumb base, and only about 1/4" out of his jacket.

It's quibbling, of course, but I think it's important for people to know what is correct and what isn't.


Blogger Ridonkulus said ... (7:59 PM) : 

i disagree with 6:54, he probably is really mid-60s to early 70s (colored hair). people have mentioned yakuza/mafia-ish look. i think he looks like somebody's grandpa. a lot of older asian men look intimidating, because their generation don't smile in photos. the dangling cigarette is badass though...

nothing, too daring here in terms of fashion. although i think most men would have gone with black gloves with the black coat instead of brown to match shoes and scarf. i think what is striking is the excellent posture.


Blogger Ridonkulus said ... (8:09 PM) :

he designs suits inspired by old european films? hard to tell, everything is in japanese.


Anonymous tomassocroccante said ... (12:04 PM) : 

ridonkulus, that site is pretty interesting! Mr. Y. Akamine (?) definitely has a "classic menswear" approach - and his atelier walls decorated with photos of the likes of Bogart, Montand, etc underlines that 20th century apex. (And the glamourization of fashion to the masses.)
Now, will one of our Japanese-reading friends visit and fill in the blanks?!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:55 PM) : 

What's with all the "he looks like yakuza" comments? That's kinda racist people.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:05 PM) : 

these shots remind me of humphrey bogart!


Anonymous Lina said ... (9:41 PM) : 

Is his place in Shirokanedai? Are you in Tokyo mr Sartorialist?


Anonymous concupiscence said ... (6:55 AM) : 

variation is the mother of evolution but i still somehow miss his chucks.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:17 PM) : 

id like to chime in on the "sleeve length debate"...

regarding "bricology's" post, GREAT info on sleeve length and the length relationship between the jacket and shirt! i personally believe style and dressing yourself is an art, allowing those who see it this way to use their artistic license, but that artistic license only comes through schooling/understanding, respect of the history there of and grasp of what could be!

id say Mr. Y. Akamine is early 60's at the oldest! i think 6:54 was make a point. if you do the math 1/4 of 80 is 20yrs old. and we all know hes not that! the point, i think, is that smoking isnt cool period, thats an ancient view point! let it go.. an apple in hand is wwway cooler!

first time for me,
love the blog!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:32 PM) : 

i know he's absolutely not a superstar.he's fake.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:53 AM) : 

How and why do so many people make such sweeping, definative statements in here? "That is horrible because this is the way you're supposed to do things and that is that. Period." Ugh.

"The best lack all conviction, while the worst are full of passionate intensity."
-William Butler Yeats


Anonymous mina said ... (2:24 PM) : 

he has his own menswear collection, importing luxury fabric (i imagine loro piana wool and harris tweed?), and sewing it all in japan. it looks like he draws inspiration from cinema, but also gives his clothes a bit of a modern twist.

i read his website. some of it's quite serious, with him explaining tailoring and complaining that luxury fashion's become too much about profit rather than expert skillsmanship. but there's also a part where readers write in with questions --seeking career advice for example-- and he just rips into them. the badass observation is spot-on.

he's in his early 60's, by the way.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (1:37 PM) : 

I have mixed feelings about this one. The colors work well together but I don’t like it when people mix prints (here: stripes and dots) and I also think that the jacket is a bit too tight for him.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:49 PM) : 

For goodness sake people, could we please stop talking about what we think of smoking? Yes, it is bad for your health no one needs to be reminded of it every seven posts though. Please just focus on the clothes and how the subject wears them.

I am not a smoker and I do not condone it, but you don't hear the smokers on this blog complaining about all of the pictures that do not have ciggarettes in them.


Anonymous Sakura Ryogoku said ... (10:38 AM) : 

Very nice!

He is a famous Japanese Men's fashion director. I respect Mr. Akamine.


Anonymous Chuck said ... (3:39 PM) : 

Seems typically Otaku-style to even copy the Bogart way of smoking. Individualism still has a bit of a way to go in Japan. Not impressed..


Anonymous QC said ... (2:12 PM) : 

This is what every man his age should look like in a suite. He's so got that Cary Grant thing going. Love it!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (3:58 PM) : 

That is one sharp-dressed man. With that face, he's got to be a gangster.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:51 AM) : 

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