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Here Comes The Storm!!! Hello From Florence

 
 
 
 
 















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Tuesday, January 08, 2008

Here Comes The Storm!!! Hello From Florence


This is one of those simple but directional looks that can change the way you look at menswear.

Take careful notice of

- double pleated pants - when was the last time you saw pleats look so cool

-Printed tie - it has been ages since I have even considered a printed tie (only woven for me) but this "unconstructed, loosely folded tie looks incredible

-modified spread-collar shirt - again, ages since i liked a shirt that didn't have a more dramatic cut-away collar.


This is why designers and buyers travel the world to find inspiration that will shift the look of fashion

Comments on "Here Comes The Storm!!! Hello From Florence"

 

Anonymous Baz said ... (3:12 PM) : 

What a distinguished gentleman, so very nineteenth century. Everything is so super over the top uncool about him, that he really is the cool himself. Unfashionable fashionable, how do some men do these things? I'm afraid that when I try such clothes people will laugh at me. But nobody will laugh at this gent!

 

Anonymous vanwagoner said ... (3:17 PM) : 

Absolutely brilliant. The tie especially, and the way it looks so thin and loose, is just fantastic. I agree with baz, a large part of putting together an outfit like this is simply having the guts to do it and the confidence to carry it off.

 

Blogger James said ... (3:26 PM) : 

NIIICE. i like a lot. it's a simple, refined, elegant look that is entirely complementary.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (3:35 PM) : 

maybe he has been wearing this for years and was fashionable, not fashionable and then fashionable again!

 

Anonymous lis said ... (3:39 PM) : 

Oooo, this is lovely. Beautiful suit - cut, fit, fabric. I love the pleats - they look gorgeous emerging from the bottom of that vest. I'm showing this one to my hubby.

 

Blogger Jesse Thorn said ... (3:39 PM) : 

Norm Macdonald is looking a little older, but still fantastic!

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (3:42 PM) : 

Simone Righi, Director of Tie Your Tie. Always dashing in a waistcoat and with a cigar. The lighting is so dramatic, and the color of the backing wall and the suit are absolutely stunning. Excellent photo!

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (3:45 PM) : 

Classic, taken out of a history book.

 

Anonymous Poppet said ... (3:49 PM) : 

The printed tie adds such an effortlessly beautiful and elegant accent--love it!

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (3:57 PM) : 

He looks great. I love an expensive looking 3-pice suit. Looking to get one myself. Nice shirt too.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:02 PM) : 

the colors in this shot or spectacular--bravo

 

Anonymous MensFlair said ... (4:02 PM) : 

My opinion always was that anything can work if done a certain(right) way, on a certain person, at the certain time.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:03 PM) : 

Well, my, my; a grownup -- a rare sighting, and such a welcome one. Handsome, dignified, confident, interesting, comfortable, to say nothing of the sartorial perfection of it all.

Sart, one of the things I love about your work is that you are willing to be surprised and to recognize something as worthy of attention that is outside your own, stated, bless you, set of assumptions and sensibilities.

Bravo to him for his retro daring, and to you for giving us this picture and your comments.

 

Blogger fad tony said ... (4:03 PM) : 

you're right, the tie! the suit!
the whole shot!
incredibile!

 

Blogger Stephanie said ... (4:32 PM) : 

Please keep commenting in that kind of detail, Sart, sir! Please! So much of fashion comment is pure and unconsidered reaction - yours is artistic thought. Keep it coming.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:45 PM) : 

i've never been a fan of facial hair but maybe this is how you make it work: wear an ever so slightly, barely perceptibly unstructured formal suit (oh my god! even the cigar matches!) and go and live in Florence?

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:51 PM) : 

Indy! Throw me the idol and I'll throw you the whip!!!

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:54 PM) : 

This ensemble dangerously approaches perfection. If I had the money I would take his sense of style as a guide. Thank you, Sartorialist, another beautiful man posted for our edification.

 

Blogger jonnieboy said ... (4:55 PM) : 

i always learn something new from you sart. you're my hero.

 

Anonymous Quise said ... (4:56 PM) : 

Classic fit and look! No matter the look, nothing can beat great tailoring.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:05 PM) : 

beautiful

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:17 PM) : 

...That's all true Sart, AND what really makes it work is the proportions! the fit of that vest is perfect, and if that was not exactly as it is, the whole outfit would not work... in my humble opinion.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:29 PM) : 

Seems to me you have omitted the most important cues--a brown suit and a vest.

 

Blogger blogazar said ... (5:49 PM) : 

wow (currently rethinking pleats). smart, elegant and uber masculine.

 

Anonymous Verdiales said ... (6:01 PM) : 

An Italian Robert, er, Browning.

Superb.

Was the shirt white, Sart? It looks like there's some brown in it.

 

Anonymous Lara said ... (6:24 PM) : 

I wish I had your eye, you make his suit sound like a beautiful poem or something! All I can see is an awesome pic I would pay a lot of money to put on my wall :) Do you sell? (Well i get you don't sell the pictures of people, but you have great photography skills)

 

Anonymous Cathy said ... (7:13 PM) : 

This picture should be printed on a postcard & handed out to men on the street as an example of how to dress. Imagine if all men dressed like this, instead of cheap sportswear or scary shorts???

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (7:13 PM) : 

wow. gorgeous.


is it just me or do you imagine he must be very pithy?

amazing how the way someone looks can lead people to form opinions.

 

Blogger cautiondriverknitting said ... (7:42 PM) : 

Satisfies my Sherlock Holmes/ Watson aesthetic fascinations!

 

Anonymous Amelia said ... (7:48 PM) : 

He uses the avant garde/absurdist trick of mixing periods to make something timeless. The suit and shirt suggest something from the interwar period, but he's got a nineties goatee and a totally nondescript haircut. It creates a unique silhouette.

The subject's own color sense is flawless -- think how different this would look on your "typical" olive-skinned Italian with brown hair and eyes. But you've captured THE color of Florence in that ochre wall behind him.

 

Blogger Peter said ... (8:19 PM) : 

Why don't (or didn't) you like print ties, Scott?

 

Anonymous concupiscence said ... (8:29 PM) : 

every now and then, an image will hit a sweet spot with me, and this is it. as below with simba, gorgeous lighting. and even though in the back of my mind i can hear my father say 'hard light', i can't help but love it all. hard light, warm colours and gentle, gentle edges. a formidable bloke there.

 

Anonymous lintmag said ... (8:32 PM) : 

Very fab vintage-y! Love the golden light too. I was also impressed by the great clothing I just saw on Daniel Day-Lewis in There will be blood. The jodhpurs, high boots, jackets.... some things are always stylish.

 

Blogger Alice Olive said ... (8:34 PM) : 

Agreed, he is a distinguished gentleman who has attired himself meticulously.

More than that, this is also a wonderful photograph - look at that light!

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (8:46 PM) : 

That fantastic drape in the shoulders is a result of VERY light padding. For this to not look sloppy require tremendous skill in cutting and stitching a suit. This suit is a great example of excellent tailoring.

 

Blogger Butch said ... (8:53 PM) : 

Superb--a brown suit can be a toughie but he's done brilliantly by the color.

Especially like the way the collar bends a bit--it lives, unlike the usual over-stiffened examples.

Vest is just the right length, too.

Pleats never go out of style--and they're absolutely required here.

A billiant ensemble, both casual and dressy: just right for this gent!

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (8:56 PM) : 

Love the softness of his outfit despite the formality. And what a handsome face!

Also, beautiful sharp Baroque lighting. ;)

 

Blogger McTickle said ... (8:58 PM) : 

Thom Browne would hate this. Do it again!

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:13 PM) : 

I really enjoy your commentary on this image. Like so many others you have posted before, the points made are clear, poetic and human all at once. It is inspiring to see fashion through your eyes. Your vision and traveled perspective carry me to wonderfully freeing vantage points. Thank you!

 

Blogger Stacy said ... (9:31 PM) : 

Love it all.

I think my favourite part is the brown and white stripped shirt.

Nice shadows too.

 

Anonymous km said ... (10:37 PM) : 

Anonymous, I'm pretty sure that's the Canadian comedian Norm MacDonald.

 

Blogger Bricology said ... (10:50 PM) : 

The ensemble looks very good.

Now then, sir: please take your hand out of your pocket. If your hands are cold, wear gloves. There is no reason for a gentleman to ever stow his hands in his pants pockets. It ruins the lines of his pants, and it makes him look onanistic.

 

Blogger Candid Cool said ... (11:26 PM) : 

Magnificent! And distinguished indeed.

 

Anonymous morty said ... (11:37 PM) : 

The thing that bothers me is that the man has not paid attention to his facial hair.The beard looks quite awful and he could have his hair cut too.

 

Blogger The Pilgrim said ... (11:37 PM) : 

He looks so elegant!
I've been dying for pleated pants (double or single) since last year and can't find any that are not just the plain old kind, I guess I'll have to buy those and alter them to make them look fashionable!

 

Anonymous Ruth said ... (12:34 AM) : 

The pleats work because the pants sit high on the waist, they don't have an inseam that hangs halfway down to the knees, they have only ONE pleat that is prominently and very precisely creased and because they are tapered to the leg. Look--his hand is shoved in his pocket and the pant still doesn't bulk out. And the collar looks fantastic because its spread is echoed by the top of the lapel which is proportioned and sits high on the shoulder instead of widening in mid-chest. What gorgeous material-it looks like very high quality wool.

 

Blogger aLwAySz said ... (1:04 AM) : 

Today is the 1st time i checked out your blog and i think it's really good. The pictures are awesome and the topics you talk about are interesting. Keep up the good work.

 

OpenID gunsandsmoke said ... (1:58 AM) : 

and that beard! that is one badass beard. it commands respect.

facial hair = A GREAT ACCESSORY FOR ALL :>

 

Blogger lovely lady lessy. said ... (2:01 AM) : 

Mmm. FANTASTIC fabrics, only made better by the gorgeous tailoring.

You have found a winner.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:37 AM) : 

as a woman, i love the way you look at men's clothing and style....it gives me a completely new in depth perspective....i have recently just realised that the past year has seen me buy a number of ties, braces and pocket squares, have really started enjoying reading the GQ (which is really a great mag)....you really made a difference...i have to say....but i think looking into your archives, my favourite month has to be January 06 with interviews from Boyer and Derrik Miller...the quirky personal tales about your torn shirt and self made(and lost) jacket...i guess its not just your pictures and the people in them...its what you thought of them that counts....i feel like i need to hear more from you...and what YOU think...
love and luck!!!
K

 

Blogger Vistiendo a Candela said ... (5:03 AM) : 

You´re right

 

Blogger Doron said ... (5:50 AM) : 

Minus the vest, this is pretty much how men dress for work in Europe. Change the collar to something like, say, button down, and change the color and you've got the standard American work suit. Pleated trousers, sack jacket, print tie. There's no question that the material is luxurious and the fit perfect, there's no question this guy has a sharp eye for color and pattern, but this is pretty much what you wear when you've got a regular (though well paying) job.

 

Blogger Gabriela said ... (6:30 AM) : 

Wellcome to Europe Sart!

 

Blogger Diana said ... (7:00 AM) : 

What i would like to know, if you already saw this gent in front of this background, or at least nearby, or you saw him in the crowd, picked him out, run around to find a suitable background for him (+ light) and took this fantastic pic?

 

Blogger Carolina Lange said ... (7:15 AM) : 

Perfect!

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (7:17 AM) : 

Like Lappo Elkann he has the shirt collar starched and the rest not. Is the shirt silk or cotton?
I've always thought that starch was invented to disguise bad cheap fabric.

 

Blogger bro brummell said ... (7:36 AM) : 

The pleats look better than most, but nobody seems to be noticing that they're REVERSE. EW.

Otherwise, bravo. The cigarillo is a must-have accessory for that kind of suit, even if you don't smoke.

 

Blogger Raquel said ... (8:02 AM) : 

He looks like Captain Alatriste!!

 

Blogger perfect bound said ... (8:47 AM) : 

You also captured the light perfectly. I love the color of that building. I can close my eyes and almost guess where he is standing. Florence is like no other.

 

Blogger I. Filcovich said ... (9:57 AM) : 

So Henry James!! I love it. Wish all young men would wear these kind of clothes out on the streets.

 

Blogger S. said ... (10:01 AM) : 

So handsome, love him!

 

Blogger Mitchell said ... (10:46 AM) : 

The whole look is impeccable. I wish I were back in Firenze right now to see all the inspiration.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (11:50 AM) : 

Great suit and great picture.

Regarding the collar, I was speaking recently with a top Italian custom shirtmaker, and he mentioned that well dressed Italians absolutely avoid the overly spread collars. He questioned why Americans liked them so much and referred to them as the French rather than Italian style. His preference, and that of his clientèle is very much like the one that the fellow in your picture here is wearing.

 

Blogger Thomas said ... (11:54 AM) : 

If I tried to wear this I would look like a rumpled sack, but he looks fantastic. Must make more money to hire a tailor.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (12:12 PM) : 

I agree with BAZ SAID....I love when men pull off these PERIOD looks ...I would like to say that for me it is a never ending pursuit of findng the perfect balance between a PERIOD look and making it work TODAY!

Italian men especially do this very well.... i'm sure it has sooo much to do with a certain mindset and mentality ....and therefore it looks so EFFORTLESS!!

THX SAR!
from DALLAS

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (12:15 PM) : 

P.S.

I am on big kick this year to start wearing alot of CLUB collars with suits and MANDARIN/BAND collars for casual wear...in an effort to add that OLD WORLD charm!

THX SAR!

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (12:32 PM) : 

I have always believed that "style" is not necessarily based only on the clothes u wear but unltimately its the right attitude, the confidence, the personal flair and of course the way u look( thats what separates the good from the amazing ).

 

Anonymous Patri said ... (2:43 PM) : 

I am a young woman and I've just fallen in love with him! I wish I knew men of my age with his elegance ;)

 

Blogger Démonée said ... (3:06 PM) : 

I love it!!!
Is he taken?

 

Blogger The Urban Naturalist said ... (3:17 PM) : 

Well done, sir. The short but messy hair. The clean cut cheeks and out out-of-control chin. The slightly out of kilter tie. This is the look of a gentleman that is thoughtfully unique.

 

Blogger Lynne Rutter said ... (4:11 PM) : 

the man is wearing the suit, not the other way around.

gorgeous study in color- i love the brown with the ochre wall, strong shadow... very nice photo.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:24 PM) : 

Wonderful photo, great light!!
What' s wrong with printed ties, Sart?

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:25 PM) : 

Not trying to be mean but I feel like the look is "self important" and that makes me dislike it.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:56 PM) : 

This guy IS the suit. You cant buy that.

 

Anonymous John Van Rijn said ... (5:37 PM) : 

The point Ruth makes is important. The pleats work because the trousers sit high on the waist and are tailored to the wearer, tapered to the leg. You cannot do this with a ready-to-wear suit because the trousers blouse out making even a well-proportioned man look fat and stumpy. However the overall look is very individual and very manly. Great beard.

 

Blogger miss cavendish said ... (6:27 PM) : 

Definitely not Norm MacDonald! As a fellow Canadian, I appreciate Norm, but he's not one I'd look to for fashion inspiration--while in Florence. If I were looking for something to wear on the town with Bob and Doug MacKenzie, perhaps!

 

Blogger squajo said ... (6:52 PM) : 

I love the texture of the shirt. I often take the backing out of my neckties but this one looks great!

 

Blogger Kelly said ... (7:44 PM) : 

Wow, such an AMAZING picture. The lighting and setting are simply beautiful and perfectly set off his look.

 

Blogger Easy and Elegant Life said ... (8:03 PM) : 

Anon(s) 4:03 and 8:46, well said.

For me, this is a classic example of sprezzatura. It takes a man comfortable in his own skin. Nicely done.

 

Anonymous Phyllis said ... (9:27 PM) : 

How did you get this exposure???Sunset is such tough light to shoot in!

Wonderful.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (11:15 PM) : 

Before i enlarged the picture I thought it was Pierce Brosnan! This man has the same suave quality.

 

Blogger tintin said ... (11:40 AM) : 

Damn those Europeans. That is beautiful. The browns and the mustard wall and the dark wrapper of the cigar all come together for a remarkable portrait. One of your best.

 

Blogger pearlescent said ... (12:04 PM) : 

This photo deserves an award: the lighting, shadows, colors, and the content himself! He looks unreal. Love how the fitted waistcoat's cut at the bottom highlights the pleats, and most of all, I love that the jacket doesn't have a wide flat collar. This collar is much more elegant, I like how it curves..

 

Anonymous fawn said ... (1:02 PM) : 

the beard! lovely.

 

Blogger Paul Pincus said ... (4:24 PM) : 

He looks incredible.

This is a really terrific portrait...that face!

Cheers!

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (11:26 PM) : 

Amen Anonymous 12:32! When one possesses Style, one not need pay attention to "fashion".

 

Anonymous amelie said ... (12:44 PM) : 

my boyfriend has been informed that this is how he is to dress in the not so distant future. xx

 

Anonymous Catherine said ... (2:52 PM) : 

Fabulous photo - both the subject, his style and the image itself! Beautiful! I'd forgotten just how much I love your visits to Florence... all these divinely dressed men to fall in love with!

 

Anonymous Catherine said ... (2:56 PM) : 

"...it makes him look onanistic". Hilarious! And possibly the best line on this blog...

 

Blogger Jenava said ... (8:05 PM) : 

Normally I detest pleats, but these work. My theory is the vest, which has long points, helps smooth the line between the shirt and waist, making the pleats less blouse-y. Plus, his pants fit properly and HE is fit, which makes it easier to pull off the pleats.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:42 AM) : 

The chic informality of the tie is due to the four-in-hand knot, which is more slender and asymmetric than the Windsor. Too bad this guy forgot to put some silk in his breast pocket.

 

Blogger Lee said ... (11:19 PM) : 

first of all
this is an amazing photograph:
the tones of the background, the shadows, the angle of the light.. just perfect!
second, this man just looks amazing, though i almost wish wish he was holding a cig or pipe in his right hand. His face and beard, his hairstyle and demeanor all work together with his outfit to just emanate masculine elegance.

 

Anonymous starsying said ... (6:01 AM) : 

he looks straight out of the 19th century. very refined and classy

 

Blogger Oscar said ... (3:55 PM) : 

This is why men should grow beards. It makes your suits look like you're wearing them instead of the opposite.
That is why Norm McDonald here, looks better than ever ;)

 

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