On the Street.....I Feel Like I'm at Pitti Already, Manhattan
The unmistakable proportions of an Italian Sartorialist
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Wednesday, December 19, 2007
The unmistakable proportions of an Italian Sartorialist
Comments on "On the Street.....I Feel Like I'm at Pitti Already, Manhattan"
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Anonymous said ... (9:42 AM) :
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The Sartorialist said ... (4:11 PM) :
post a commentThis is quite ugly. That coat is no different than the hundreds other boxy dark coats one sees on the streets of New York everyday. Can't wait for all the raving about how great he looks, how confident he looks, blah blah blah blah to start now...
wicked shoes. roberto is giving his brother enrico a run for his money. now we need to see giacomo from ellegi. who also is a fine dresser and a true gentleman. better still line them up and do a group shot. cheers
for 9:42am
wow it is good you stayed anonymous b/c you don't seem to have very good attention to detail
you didn't notice the wide cuff on the pant?
You didn't notice the pant length (love it or hate it)?
You didn't notice the color palette?
You didn't notice the kick-ass shoes?
You didn't notice the perfect length of the coat?
hmmmm...maybe you need to take a closer look before you begin typing such negative attacks
Sartorialist:
I agree the shoes are nice and the pant length is noteworthy. The coat is blah and the color palette is fine but one you see hundreds of people donning in New York these days. Don't you agree?
Poor fits, IMO. The jacket is two sizes too large (look at the shoulders!), and the pants are too wide to be rolled that short. The shoes and scarf are wonderful in combination with the jacket and pant colors.
Yeah great shoes and cuffs. Nice. Do we know who makes the shoes? I want them.
the shoes are Churchs
Those shoes are very nice!
I love the photo!
Sart, you are like a painter with your use of composition and color and a great model here. The lights behind him are a gorgeous glowing dot-fest and he looks perfect in his combination of texture in the clothing and his stance in the snow.
If you look hard enough, you can find something really nice in anything that somebody wears. But I agree with the first comment - this looks really boringand really unnattractive. The shoes are nice, but the color pallette is grey and black and brown, which is never particularly original. The pants are too short (again, not too original) and the jacket's length is fine, but it looks to blocky.
hmmm...maybe Sart should look closer before he starts typiing such negative attacks on his readers.
Sart, great photo! But, I am not excessively fond of the overcoat. As other commentators have pointed it, the shoulders look far too big. They appear to contain too much padding. I prefer the soft, natural shoulders of classic American and British tailoring, and I certainly can appreciate Italian styles, but this coat simply does not work, IMVHO. Furthermore, though I am pleased to see fat cuffs on this gentleman's trousers, I am afraid this is another case of a 'negative break'! Why are the trousers so short? WTF?! Lovely scarf and Church's, though.
The hair reminds me a little of oft-phographed testaurateur Charlie Schumann from Schumann's Bar in Munich.
A relative? Scott?
The wingtips are incredible...love the scarf...it's perfect. I disagree with some of the comments about his coat...the gentleman's look is perfectly balanced, harmonious!
Cheers.
This is a magical photograph! Makes me feel so Christmassy!
Lovely trousers, too.
Merry Christmas!
It's great to hear some real debate on here. This gentleman's outfit is well-turned out and quite well fitted, but not that remarkable. Though I personally don't like pants that short, I do find it interesting how different people wear them. I often think it works better with thicker pants, like jeans or cords.
Another interesting question - many overcoats tend to look this big and boxy because they are always worn over the naturally padded shoulders of a suit. Do you tend to have coats in two different sizes, for a suit and without a suit? I'd appreciate your opinions, Sart.
I'm sorry, but those short trousers just made me laugh. Is he seriously walking around dressed like that? Lol. :D
To Laguna Beach Trad: Please stop being so weird!
You are giving this blog a weird patina and it's not right.
I like a wide legged trouser and wide cuffs, but that short pants look... I can only imagine it's to show off the shoes. Which are worthy of closer inspection!
I also like the length of the coat, but the shoulders do look a bit off on him. Still, he's dressing better than 95% of the people I run into at the mall...
Could you pleace tell me why there are snow in Manhattan but here in Finland (home of Santa!) is only rain? This is so frustrating...!
I love this men's shoes.
Great:
the shoes
the socks to the coat
the attitude
your sharp eyes
your enthusiasm
that somebody puts the finger on the
blablas
i dont like:
the shoulders
and the way to wear the trousers short,
although you like it.
strange that boy girl details in the fashion right now.i notice that with mixded emotions.
wow this is quite sloppy. those shoulders on that coat are enormous. it just throws the whole look off with the tapered leg of his trousers.
Re: anonymous said...@ 12:54 PM
To Laguna Beach Trad: Please stop being so weird!
You are giving this blog a weird patina and it's not right.
Have some respect! We have amongst us a rare bird in LBT...I take comfort in knowing that Sebastian Flyte is alive and well.
Beautiful shoes, classic outerwear, interesting pant proportions.
The man owns his look!
i am surprised there are not more mentions of the scarf. I know a lot of Italians who collect scarfs, especially cashmere scarfs, and have a color for every possible bit of clothing.
and Italians always look so beautiful in their scarfs, I can never get that look. At the scala last year, the conductor of Aida, Richard Chially, went on stage and made such a beautiful show of removing his scarf......
I know some Italian men who even keep the scarf on during the day at work on days when it's really cold and they look great doing it....
Anon: 12:54
Why is Laguna Beach Trad being weird? I thought and think his comments are perfectly sensible and he adds value to the blog.
What is weird anyway?
This gentleman's hair is fabulous.
I like most of the photos even whne I can't tell the sex of the person but this guy's outfit does nothing for me.
Sart,I think he just folded up his trousers because of the snow,this length of trouser looks great with an ankle boot but,with this colour of shoe it looks a wee bit lit BoBo the clown and he is standing,he would be showing too much leg when seated.He must be wearing a suit under his wide top coat as a narrow top coat would feel very uncomfortable with a suit!
Anyway he looks very comfortable with himself and his look,which is the way it should be,right?We should first dress for ourselves and then for others!
Happy Holidays to all!
ladies and gentelmen,
you can like things or don't like them but please stay within certain margins explaining your point of view.
it's not your blog after all. nobody pushes you to look at it.
and: don't get rid of your negetive emotions here if the major problem is somewhere else.
PS daring outfit
I think the coat is not right. The length is about 5cm too short for this man (I'm obsessed with having coats brush the top of the knee). The buttons are too far apart. The width of the coat at the shoulders is too wide for this man. There is also just a bit too much bulk across the chest area in the coat....all in all, up top, it's just a bit too big for him. The scarf is fabulous and the collar up on the coat looks great.
I'm not fond of the pants either. I think this coat doesn't make the look of the pants and shoes. I think if the pants are worn this short they should be more of a slim fit.
The shoes are lovely. Are they well worn and loved? Or new and made to look this way?
Lights in the back of the photo are gorgeous - very different weather to us here in Australia.
Merry Christmas all xo
I'm in agreeance with those who are not enamoured with the length of the trousers. They look a bit like women's capri pants. The proportions may be daring, but in truth, this looks accidental.
This is a beautifully composed photo. It would be perfect as a notecard that is blank inside - I'd use it to pen a holiday greeting to a friend. I love everything about this look except the, in my opinion, too short pants. I am just not feeling the short and shrunken fits that are so popular now. The shoes are especially noteworthy. I also love this gentleman's wistful expression.
First post on this outfit, I cannot get past the length off the pants, the river must be really at high tide, awful.
On first glance, I totally thought this was Anthony Bourdain.
I think the "unmistakable proportions of an Italian Sartorialist" refers to the wedge shape in the silhouette with no fear of wide shoulders. The short pants and exaggerated shoulders work for me because they both emphasize the wedge, in addition to conveniently showing off the shoe. & the loose jacket keeps the whole from being too fussy, yes, to the uninitiated he is just another guy in a big coat and he's probably enjoying that. Bravo (sotto voce).
lgt just takes it all a little too seriously.
It's great to have negative comments. It is the style of those people that make the well dressed people look even better.
You may not like the look, but you have to admire the quality. Cheap doesn't look this good.
There are many things to comment here.
Snow and Christmas lights in New York, oh! Great winter shot.
As I often see, every single piece of this outfit is great, but all together is just too much... The oposite of what you'd call effortless.
But, since he is so elegant and wears great globes and a very nice scarf, it would have been nice to go all the way and add a touch of humor to the outfit with, perhaps, some sort of hat.
About Laguna Beach Trad, I have to disagree with 12:54 and agree with those who defended him. I think his comments are perfectly OK and his picture in BnW is very cool I wonder who that young man is...
PS. Nobody can make work that pant lenght as wonderfully as Jaques Tati.
Coat length is pefect for this gentleman, but I don't think it goes with the shorter-than-usual trousers. The gloves also clash horribly with the shoes. I'd like to see him walking-it's often difficult to get the overall impact of an outfit in a still photo. He looks fit, wiry, and very active, so he may well be able to carry off that look!
Nothing to add.
How's that for an existential comment?
sorry. Pants are too short. Coat's shoulders are too big. Everything is out of range. In Italy this look is considerer "non elegante".
The problem of the trouser length: he probably just stood up from having been seated before the photo was taken.
Truth is, his over-the-calf socks are actually preventing his trousers from falling to their natural length. Italians are wearing their trouser-WIDTH on the narrow side lately (about 18cm-19.5cm, a common early sixties british look) While this trouser width is a bit trendy at the moment (especially in Milan and Rome) it has the most irritating defect of "catching on your socks" as you stand up and keeps them around your knees.
I know because I go crazy trying to stomp my feet as I get up from a sitting position so that my trousers fall to their normal length. We forget sometimes and can walk around for a few minutes looking ridiculous.
That being said, Italians do tend to a shorter length of trousers - you have to notice the shoes or what fun is it?
Just for the record, 21 cm width is best and his cuffs could smaller because they make him appear shorter, as in this gentleman's case.
All fine, but the pants at this length and in this photo tend to make the shoes look too big, nice though they may be. Also, in this pic he seems to be knock kneed. Not something I would want to highlight.
But these are likely the result of the angle of the photo. I like his sense of style.
why is it that if you dont like a look you get villified on this blog by the Sartorialist and by people like rwaussie. it is perfectly fine to dislike a look, or to say its unoriginal or doesnt work. the worst part of this blog is that only people who say cleched boring positive things write on it (they will say anyting is fantastic as long as Sart does).
so negative = good too.
much as i like the outfit, more so, i enjoy the composition of the picture. the lights on the dark green plants and white snow around. very comforting
agree with Anon 4:48
Churchs tend to be big and clunky so you do not want to attract a lot of attention to them by wearing short pants as nice as the shoes may be.
I like Churchs but have given them up for Crockett and Jones.
To be perfectly honest (so far as the deal with Laguna Beach Trad goes) His are the only real comments I actually look for. I kinda browse around a bit, but always read his. Cudos to LBT. I personally think he really adds something.
Italian indeed! Groomed so well, yet despite the gorgeous shoes, I ight have been more subtle in my attempt to show them off; the pants not only draw attention to the shoes but to his feminine side--I wonder if that was intentional?
beautiful scarf... i personally adore the bit of blue peeking above his scarf.
love the shoes,
and like many, i question the sagged shoulders, and also the short hem.
otherwise i love the palette, especially combined with the picturesque background!
Oh I just love a good fashion controversy....I think he looks great. This definitely challenges me, and I love that.
this man is of the amazing! the length of his trousers are just right... not too long and not too short which give his shoes a more important role in the outfit, which they should! and the somewhat oversized coat. this is me in 30 years! all thats missing is a perfect fitting hat.
I think I love the pants. Shoes are wonderful. Coat shoulders are too much. This whole look would be that much better with a better coat, although the length is good.
can someone please explain to me the fascination with what I would call "extreme high water" pants?
I just dont get it. Perhaps it was how I was raised, but I would never wear my pants that way
I think this gentleman looks great, i really love the scarf and the shoes are truly fabulous. However, I have a very big problem with the pant length, i think it makes him look somewhat short and stumpy. I think an extra inch or so and this would look very fluid.
er...i'm sorry but i can't see any italian feature in his look..
and i'm italian..
i don't like him at all: his pants length is riddiculous, the coat is too big..
the proportions are wrong, italian ones are more classical balanced!
for anon 8:54am
if you don't see the Italian in his look then you have not been watching this site for long because I have hundreds of images like this from Milan and Florence