At Pitti Uomo...The Right Amount of Cuff
This is easily a half inch cuff and it looks perfect....ok, so does everything else. |
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Friday, January 12, 2007
This is easily a half inch cuff and it looks perfect....ok, so does everything else.
Comments on "At Pitti Uomo...The Right Amount of Cuff"
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Michael Eyk said ... (4:31 AM) :
post a commenthe looks amazing.I love the slacks , shoes, jacket. shirt...
This is nice. Gives me thoughts of spring. It must have been a nice day.
I just noticed the guys in the background. Nice casual looks there as well.
Looks quite well-dressed and -fitted. He's really sexy -- who cares what he's wearing -- good eye you've got, Sartorialist!
You know, the shorter, cuffed look seems right when the the pant is tapered and norrow as you show here. But when I see a fuller pant, I don't like it. I think I finally figured that out!
hey sartorialist... good job with intersection (the video series on Style.com).
even though I have a healthy dose of anti-materialism running through my veins - I find the clip intriguing from a reality/sociology perspective.
don't know if you saw it but i gota "best of" clip up on AtomFilms.com
Gorgeous.
waowwww
there's that blue and gray again.
is that a BD collar on that italian? who does he think he is--john bolton?
Like the color harmony and general spiffiness.
But the jacket's a bit snug, I'd say.
And to touch on a pet peeve of mine, if God had wanted one's belt buckle to be visible when wearing a buttoned two-buttoned jacket, not to mention the waistline of one's rather low-rise trousers (in this case), she would have...would have...well, it just can't be part of Divine Intention!
What a nice tan, highlighted by the blue shirt, and the light gray. this man is just plain hot.
Wow, he is wearing some seriously cool shoes. I love that suede, double monk strap look with a narrow last. They are perfect with the narrow pant.
Very nice. Agree on the perfect sleeve length. One quibble: the jacket is pulling at the button so he either needs to lose a couple of pounds (scary I know!) or the side seams need to be let out a little.
I am going to pick a nit here. The pictures that you have from Pitti show so many well dressed guys, but there is a trend towards jackets that don't fit. This guy is a perfect example. I fitted jacket is very nice, but one that pulls open at the bottom is not fitted, but ill fitting. Even the picture of Fabio Borrelli, who wears a trim cut shows a fitting jacket. This looks very OTR and very poor. The combination, however, is terrific.
Molto, Molto Benne!!
perfect cut
and love grey w/ light blue
great pic Sart
Hehe, he`s the son of an owner of a nice store in Amsterdam (Netherlands) and also has his own line. (www.oger.nl)
i am really liking this blue and grey combination. i think i may have to adopt it.
on a side note, he is quite gorgeous.
Of all the beautiful things, I love the shoes the most. I wonder what they are.
Love the shoes.
I love that blue shirt. I am partial to blue shirts anyway, but that shade is great with his coat. I like the shoes, I'd like to see a more close up photo. Unfortunately, I can't get away with the skinny pants so they don't impress me.
Very nice fit all around, but should such tight trouers have cuffs?
Yeah, as close to perfection in fit and color as we've ever seen here. Everything works together; this look is of a piece.
The cuff really is perfect here. I imagine he is quite proud of his color matching the blue of his coat to that of his shirt and pocket square. The color really pops out. The shoes, though, are also quite enviable.
Martijn Lusink from Oger in The Netherlands. Check out www.oger.nl for more information!
Why does my husband not look like this?
Is it permissible to be hyper-critical, even though overall this guy looks super? Here goes: To my eye, both shirtsleeves and jacket sleeves are somewhat too short (by the same amount); he's showing the right amount of shirt cuff, but he's also showing wristbone and he shouldn't be. I'd say the same about his pants. (Maybe this is an American sensibility? but I still think he looks as though the extremities of his clothing got shrunk.) Finally, although shoulders and chest in the jacket look fine, I don't think a jacket should open below the front buttons enough to show any triangle of shirt or belt down there, when the jacket is buttoned.
I have just finished combing through the archives of this blog as well as the few that you have on men.style.com. i don't remember a time when i was this breath-taken. you are a fabulous photographer. cheers~
Because he is so lean and tall, I think a three-button jacket with the top two secured would have looked better on him. Although I love the cut, the jacket does make him look somewhat cartoonish.
I love this look, it looks casual, yet elegant.
I actually know who this is. His name is Martijn Lusink and he's the son of a premium menswear retailer in the Netherlands, Oger Lusink. Oger owns a handful of really well sorted menswear stores throughout the country (think Brioni, Attolini, Borrelli, Fay, Etro and the like) and Martijn models for his father's seasonal collection catalogues. He also has his own line of clothing for discerning young professionals called "Dressed for Success".
And he does look good here, I must admit.
i love the tapered pants. i think that's on my list for spring.
The issue of question of cuffs is a tricky one. With each new suit I get, the jacket sleeves seem to ride ever-higher and sometimes I think with my latest one, they've almost reached "too short".
They look fine when your hands hang at the side but when you move and bend your arms, you often forget how much fabric bunches up at the elbow. Of course, all things are relative and since I tend to fasten my shirts quite tightly around the wrist, it means a huge amount of cuff will end up showing in certain positions.
That being said, the gentleman's jacket has a very nice jacket length to sleeve length proportion as well as being able to show quite a bit of cuff. Nice colour combination too. Only thing I'm not crazy about are those shoes.
What are you guys on??
the jacket is far too small for him!
i think he would benefit from a wider leg trouser.
What is it about guys wanting to wear jackets that are a couple sizes too small? Sorry, but if you're standing there with your jacket buttoned and you can see your shirt below the jacket button, it's too small. And looks quite ridiculous in my opinion.
This good looks definitely good, and maybe it is nice to notice that he and his famlily run their own suit company in the Netherlands, named Oger ( www.oger.nl). I think that's the reason why he is knowing the right cuff amount.
Love the monk straps. You don't see a lot of men wearing them these days. What do other people think of them?
do you also come to Milan during the fashion week?
He is the son of a well known Dutch store owner who specializes in Napolitan brands. He's is always impeccably dressed. www.oger.nl
what catches my eye is the hefty cuff he has on his pants ... I'm more used to seeing no cuffs on flat front pants, especially skinny pants, but this fellow (and some other europeans seen here previously) go for a really massive cuff. Very interesting.
My god what a looker! Nice hair. Got his number? :P
Wow, a gorgeous, sexy and impeccably dressed young man. He's divine!
Sigh!
Italian men are so beautiful! Oh, and his clothes are perfect too.
Isn't it amusing to review comments that say he looks super, great, etc. and at the same time saying it doesn't fit? If it looks great, who cares if it fits?
The only thing I don't like about it is the way the trousers don't drape, which I think could be improved by removing the cuffs and widening the legs, or perhaps, changing the fabric.
Hi martijn! How cool to see you here!looking sharp as ever! Can't wait for oger dressed for success to go international!! See you next week in milan! Ciao frank
Excuse me...he has the right amount of everything! Oh la la!
@RedBlues: he's not Italian, he's Dutch.
A few people asked which brand the shoes are from, the answer: Santoni.
I'm not sure why, but there is this current trend towards mens' jackets fitting "too small". Maybe it's the antidote to all those baggy hiphop styles? With years of experience, I know it will pass, like platform shoes, or the Nehru jacket.
I love the choices here: colors, shoes, etc, but I agree with other posters: (1) the jacket is too small - that's why the button is pulling and the fabric isn't draping properly but is bunching, (2) the jacket sleeves are therefore also a bit short - but yes, the shirt cuffs make up the difference, (3) the jacket is too small, and so that triangle of blue shirt and belt buckle show through in a not-so-elegant way.
Not sure there is much to do with some of these problems since this appears to be acceptable with the current trend.
Love the shoes...but I'm totally partial to suede. They must be Italian, even though the guy is from Amsterdam, right?
Nice matching pocket fold.
Handsome fellow. He wears the style well - many will overlook the jacket's fitting problems....just not me!
- JCH
This guy isn't Italian at all, just trying very hard. He's Dutch. His shoes are Italian though, for sale at Santoni at Madison ave.
This guy isn't Italian at all, just trying very hard. He's Dutch. His shoes are Italian though, for sale at Santoni at Madison ave.
I really disagree with people saying his jacket is too small. I think it looks great showing some cuff! I like to see the different layers on the wrist. I think the shoes are Santoni. People who think his clothes are too small should see Thom Browne ;) Funny to see all those Dutch reactions naming Oger(incl. me). :)
Maybe it is an age thing, it all looks too small to me, the jacket, the pants seem too short, oh well....this is a young person's site...time to crawl back into my cave.
Love the narrow leg trousers. They give the whole ensemble a distinct 60s' look. Think Michael Caine in Alfie - lovely!
MMMMM, italian in deed, why are some italian men so freaking HOT!?
I'm guessing the shoes are Santoni's, since his family is one of the largest Santoni distributors in Holland.
I love the combination, it would be a lot better though if the fit was correct.
He actually is a style icon in the Netherlands. I think he also was voted 'best dressed' or something quite recently.
great great great. absolutly fab!
RE: "People who think his clothes are too small should see Thom Browne"
No need for that, although I've seen it, thank you. With decades of observing fashion, and two generations in the NYC fashion industry, I wouldn't allow the current wave of a mere clothing designer to override my own sensibilities.
It's not that we "think" these ill-fitting clothes are too small, the fact is they "are" fitting too small. Well, the jacket, anyway, in this case. I "know" this because I've been alive long enough to pay attention and see several decades of trends come and go, where one becomes adept at recognizing the passing trends from the sustaining traditions of fit, drape, proportions.
As I said in my previous post: it's a trend towards the ill-fit. Like bell-bottom pants. Big hair. Men with ponytails. Platform shoes.
Here's my latest theories:
(1) The oversized hiphop fashion trend make men look "cute" by infantilizing the man's appearance. Check it out: the baseball caps, pants hanging down below the waist, xxx-sized sweatshirts, all contribute to a look like a cute, young boy, wearing clothes he's growing into.
(2) The alternative to the oversized look currently in mode is this shade of slightly too-tight, street-urchin, gamin, adolescent look. This look occured naturally when we men were growing too quickly out of our clothes as teenagers. So, reminiscent of that look, this trend is a slight adolescent-izing of the man.
Sart often posts photos with better fitting styles, tried-and-true looks, properly tailored, etc...and then I've been praising and appreciative. When I see the Emperor's New Clothes, I call it.
For what it's worth, that's what I think. But that's just me. Give it five years or so, and these jackets will be a thing of the past, the "turn-of-the-century look".
- JCH
@JCH:
I understand your thinking, but it´s not NYC, it´s Italian. Some may conclude that it´s too small, some like it this way. I do. As you say: "own sensibilities".
N.
JCH -- I enjoyed reading your theories. It's funny that American young men so often wear gigantic, oversized clothes that make them resemble toddlers or little kids in their older sibling's hand-me-downs, while European young men often wear shrunken little clothes and suits as if they are undergoing great and sudden growth spurts. I'll grant you that this man's jacket was too small by classic standards, but he's exercising some freedom of fashion expression, which I wish more men would do, and I'd rather see a man referencing adolescence than childhood, if that's the choice.
agreed, the jacket is too small and the shoes are too good!
Great look. I love the blue pocket square.
faultless!!!.....great example of how shoes accentuate an overall outfit!
Thank you, Nan. It's a pleasure to put some original thought on the line and find some support from a stranger.
Not that we have to agree on everything, but I do agree that men exercising greater fashion freedom can be a good thing.
Thinking about that, since we men don't usually wear skirts or dresses, we're already losing out on a bunch of options that women enjoy. Kidding. Men should be men and we'll leave the miniskirts to the fairer sex.
But then who knows what the future holds?
While we're on the subject, this fellow and others of a certain age can certainly push the apparent years back a notch, and wear the cute-by-leaning-towards-adolescent-look, but Sart's friend Beppe would look ridiculous, wouldn't he?
Peace to all, whatever your tastes and sensibilities,
- JCH
Wish I could see the shoes close up..but I love the look..that and that shade of blue is really nice...
I agree with the jacket too short/tight comments. But I must say he looks great. Perhaps the fashion forward yet tailored conservative combo didn't make it with the jacket, but I wish I looked that good!
qfusoszIt's working but I think there are a few fashion mis cues! The jacket is too tight, the pants are too tight and should have a higher rise. I for one favour the classic look and would include all of what's seen. Make sure you have a stiff spread collar with stays, higher rise pants with pleats (no belt showing pleasev - the perfect classic look that never goes out of fashion....
I love it...he looks super
Wow! Amazingly stulish man-and him looking handsome does not hurt either. More!
This fit is what would be called "Napolitean" in The Netherlands. Of course it has nothing do do with real Napolitean fit (being much more subtle and soft), but in Holland we like to think this is how the dress in Napoli...
In Holland this is also known as "Oger-style"
This fit is what would be called "Napolitean" in The Netherlands. Of course it has nothing do do with real Napolitean fit (being much more subtle and soft), but in Holland we like to think this is how the dress in Napoli...
In Holland this is also known as "Oger-style"
he looks like Oger.
great look!! amazing style....
Verry good. He's dutch by the way!!
Can anyone be too handsome? He oozes magnetism.
he shows perfectly how a jacket with slacks (well tailored slacks) can EASILY trump a suit in luxury.
In case someone is (still) wondering; Martijn Lusink of oger.nl is wearing Santoni shoes. Oger being the best shop in the Netherlands (arrogant pricks but nonetheless best stuff).