The Real Thom Browne Effect
The real effect of Thom Browne's work is that when I see a guy like this on the street I don't really notice the length of his jacket. When I look at the photo for a minute I notice it but now a short jacket (even this short) looks kinda normal to me. I think it helps that all of his items are in black and blend into each other.
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The Sartorialist said ... (8:34 AM) :
post a commentI like Thom Browne's stuff -
I do, but methinks he's beginning to be a wee bit overexposed...
It's great that Browne is pushing this look in America but to credit him with it's popularity is inaccurate; the Europeans and Japanese have been showing shorter lengths for years.
I'm always interested in the way the eye adjusts to fashion change--which is to say, the way it sees differently.
Not sure this guy's jacket is intentionally
short(ish), but the effect is, as you say, a la mode.
I think people are very quick to criticize Thom Browne for some of the more funky things he designs. However I think he has done more for men's fashion than anyone since Tom Ford in the 90's(black on black). Everybody and I mean everybody is doing a short jacket now from Prada to Polo.
Keep up the great work Thom I swear by your stuff...
He looks good. really, but nothing out of the ordinary. Of course, that's not neccessarily a bad thing...
I notice the jacket length. I also notice that his shirt sleeves are too long...
I'm especially fond of the narrow scarf... lovely muted colours, as well.
I really like Browne's work, as well as Slimane's BUT I don't get what is so "revolutionary" about them.
Is this not a progression of the whole early 60's Mod/Rude Boy or 70's Two-Tone aesthetic?
Bum freezer jackets and trousers cut 3" above ankles.. just look at photos of The Jam or the Specials or to go further back, soulsters of Motown in the early 60s.
Japanese street brands have been doing this since the early 90s and Brits like Katherine Hammnet's 91-93 line.
Having said that, this bloke's look is more Paris/Japanese influenced than Yankee Thom's.
I'm not sure when the Thom Browne effect started, but short suit jackets have been popular here in LA for a few years now. Rose up from the indie hipsters guys re-appropriating/altering women's jackets. I guess buying women's jeans wasn't enough.
His jacket isn't short at all, its just that his sleeves are an inch and a half too long.
I like the scarf. To me it depends on the proportion between legs and the upper part of the body. Not everybody should wear cropped jackets.
On him the look would look good too, if the jacket would't be cropped. Guys, don't make a too much fuss of it.I t's not that important, it's more the overall look.
Mero
come on nyc-guys. Be a little more open minded: Sleeves too long, jacket length....
Break sometimes stubborn rules and then you will develop personal style.
Sure there have been a few designers who have flirted with short jackets and sure Jill Sander has done a few shorter cut pants but Thom Browne has put such an American twist to it. He has made it the focus of his whole look not just a few pieces. I was a scooter boy back in the day but I wore short pants to show off my shoes if for no other reason. Still have scooters and short pants come to think of it.. Once a mod always a mod. Take a look at Paul Weller when you have a chance he is the modfather and quite a Dandy.....
Isn't that what it should be about is personal style??? to me Thom is not evident in this gent's look at all. Yes it is a shorter jacket, but the monochromatic color selection emphazizes the layers rather thatn th e jacket. This site, and it's contributors are entirely too wrapped up in name dropping when speaking to peoples style. Perhaps it would be nice to hear from some of the subjects as to their inspiration when dressing in the morning. I think you will find that only a small percentage will ever name a designer, but most of them will speak to their identity and personality. As I am sure this dude would. Hello... if you went to Italy or Japan 2 or 3 years ago you all would have seen shorter more fitted jackets, and short pants hello the Italians are infamous for those! The reason Thom seemed so "New," is that Americans were so used to wearing suits and jackets that fit like potato sacks! Thom isn't a revolutionary? No one is these days. Visionaries yes but not revolutionary, designers put their twist on trends which were already in existence. That's why we love them, they don't alienate, they play off existing themes. Stylish folks, quit name dropping and relying on magazines and pictures to define your style and do it yourself, only then will you be stylish.
Shorter jacket:
1970s:
California leisure suit
The shorter overall length+ longish sleeve look of this jacket is the same style that Yoko Devereaux creates. He has a brooklyn store, could this jacket be one of his?
Doubt it's Yoko Devearaux - he's just following a trend, and he usually does his jackets in fleece. Besides, the Japanese have tons of brands that have the shorter length and longer sleeves - I myself have several from a couple of years back from a Japanese brand called Lad Musician, but also some from DSquared2 from as far back as 2003. Both Dior Homme & Neil Barrett championed this trend and I believe Comme des Garçons (or was it Junya?) did that Fall collection several years back with severely shrunken tweed blazers that I remember debating with a sales assoiciate whether or not he should buy at Jeffrey or just get vintage. Thom Browne, distinctive though his look is, is just the most visible American designer in this vein.
Wha - creditin this to Thome Browne..?
You're KIDDING me, right??
Come on, this is just a refined Camden Lock look.. any Londoner who's ever been to camden - and any bloody student for that matter - will be laughing at you for this.
cmon, its a look that reached the world stage fer chris's sake - recall the britpop look?
(even the most insular yank surely recalls jarvis cocker if only for mooning on stage with michael jackson??)
Hmm.. Sart, I think you should visit London more often. ;p
for Anon 7;44am
Sorry I don't live in Camden I live in New York so my point of reference is Thom Browne
I'm sure Camden hasit all over new York when it comes to style but I will just have to suffer.