Lodovico Barbera in Milan
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Comments on "Lodovico Barbera in Milan"
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Alice Olive said ... (9:59 AM) :
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Elizabeth said ... (3:30 PM) :
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Alice Olive said ... (3:48 PM) :
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The Sartorialist said ... (7:39 AM) :
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Alice Olive said ... (9:26 AM) :
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The Sartorialist said ... (6:10 PM) :
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Victor said ... (6:25 PM) :
post a commentHe looks great.... until you see his ankles poking out from his trousers. If he sat down and crossed his leg, I'd be checking out his knee!
I hereby decree that Italian men should lengthen their trousers. (Are they trying to invoke Miami Vice?)
He looks fantastic. I don't understand why Americans think that the Italian length is "too short." Who set the standard? We look to Milan for style, and then say that they don't do it right? Please. . .
Going sockless with a suit and tie is very dashing and elegant. He's probably wearing "no show" socks. They give you the look, without the wear and tear on your shoes. Though, perhaps it would be better to follow the new American custom and just wear flip-flops with everything.
He looks very well put together. There is a definitely a sense of confidence to his look.
That said, I'm not a fan of going sockless with a suit and tie. The extreme between dressed up and casual is too significant. Lose the tie, and socks become more acceptable.
I think his pants are a bit high on his waist, but I leave that to individual taste.
Lastly, I just don't get the smaller end of the tie hanging lower than the bigger end. Does anyone know the reason for this.
Paucity of socks should be manditory in summer. Gee whiz, how cool!
Anonymous @ 12:17
I agree with you about the flip-flops.... funny thing , I'm seeing them in Paris now .... tres sombre et tres tragique
It's because most of us have a visual expectation of neatness. We think that the longer piece should be infront, covering the shorter piece.
We've been 'conditioned'!
What with the several comments on Mr. Barbera’s trousers, I feel the urge to join in. He is wearing his trousers at his natural waist, which is never wrong and which I think is the appropriate choice for dress pants most of the time. Full cut, pleated trousers, especially those intended to be worn with suspenders, look best, in my opinion, worn even higher than the natural waist. And jeans and other slim cut casual pants can look good worn just below the waist, say on or just above the upper point of the hip bones. Lower than that not only makes the wearer look ill-proportioned but also leaves no room for carrying packages and so is uncomfortable. As to length, Mr. Barbera has it just right for the trousers he is wearing and the sockless look he is after. His trousers are not too full above the knee, taper so that they are close to the ankle at the bottom, and end at or just above his shoe tops with no break. A fine summertime look with sleek dress slip ons such as he is sporting.
12:17 anonymous-- pants look better longer because they make your legs, and your whole body, look longer. Short pants cut off the nice line of a nice suit. That's why a pant length down to just the right point on your shoe is the standard. Shorter lengths are just style statements. Unless of course you're going to go digging for clams.
Lastly, I just don't get the smaller end of the tie hanging lower than the bigger end. Does anyone know the reason for this?
I think it is to tuck into the waitband of the pant to ensure a tighter space between the tie and shirt and to prevent the tie from going cockeyed.
PS- Sartorialist, loved your one pager in Esquire
He most certainly needs socks, it is just silly to go sockless with a suit.
oh i was dying to see some nyc heatwavestreet shots today...!
here's a direct quote from luciano barbera as far as trousers.
There are many schools on trouser length. In America they are often worn so that the pant leg tumbles over the shoes. Many Europeans now wear them quite short. You even show a little sock. What can I say? Perhaps we Europeans are secretly afraid of flash floods. The picture at right shows, quite literally, where I stand. I call this the Mid-Atlantic Solution since it is halfway between Europe and America. The pants just breaking lightly on the shoe. I do not want to see your socks, but I do want to see your shoes.
lodovico is actually wearing ankle socks. if you look closely you can see the outline. they sell men's ankle socks in italy which are not available in the states because they would not sell.
by the way here's the link http://www.lucianobarbera.it/EN/stile_pantalone.asp to luciano barbera's site where he talks about men's style. the picture is worth a thousand words.
as far as style luciano is still better than his sons and even his brothers. i don't think he would approve of lodovico wearing ankle socks.
Anon 12:16
Lodovico is not wearing ankle socks - I enlarged the photo just to make sure - it is a tan line on his foot
I love all the comments here!
I love the little quirks the Italian guys do - the tie thing or not buttoning the collars on a shirt
Question - What are our American quirks?
I mean the good ones
No socks with leather shoes means sweaty feet. If not wearing socks with a suit is desirable, perhaps another kind of shoe is in order.
Good American quirks?
Can I mention a a bad one? What's with the 'gauchos' (think that's the correct term) that every woman of every age and figure type is wearing these days?
They really don't flatter ANYONE. The jersey material clings to the derriere most unattractively! Do these women not own mirrors?
It's like some designer in the basement of Best & Less (an Australian discount department store) had leftover tracksuit material, made a million of these disgusting skirt/pants 'gauchos' and then published a photo of old Ashlee Simpson (insert any other similar starlet-wannabe) so other women would buy them.
Sometimes it's okay to cast something away - like disgusting unflattering fabrics.
Okay, off the soapbox now....
very smooth
american quirks:
*sloppy
*wearing trousers below butt cheeks
*displaying underwear outside the trousers
*no clue of his waist line
Americans have a obsession with comfort which borders on mania. This means we have to look at men on planes, in restaurants, and the theatre, in t-shirts and running shorts, their unkempt,ham-like feet shoved into flip-flops. Not that women are any better.
I don't understand the strange fascination so many Americans have with men not wearing socks, describing it as dirty, gross, etc,. especially women who think nothing of putting their own good shoes on their bare feet rather than deal with pantyhose.
For the uninitiated, you can buy socks that don't show at all (even in a blown up picture Sarto). That is what men that want to keep their shoes in good condition, but want the bare ankle look, wear.
Style is personal. There are rules, but the most stylish people often break those rules. Perhaps those in the mid-west should consider trying to learn something and expand their horizons, rather than stating that the scion of one of the most important fashion houses in Europe doesn't know what he's doing because no one in Iowa dresses that way.
Anon 1:02
Agreed , especially in the lower classes where fashion changes every day ...... In fact , most of the "on the edge , retro , street " stuff doesn't come from the stuffy ateliers but from the "hood"
just shows you what a bunch of bores , snobs and windbags we are !!!
He looks very dashing and can teach us all a lesson on classy , stylish dressing .... nice to see the differences between Milan , Paris , New York on these pages ...
Vive la difference !!!
Why would anyone want "the bare ankle look"? A guy's hairy ankles poking out from a really nice suit don't look any better than they do with the flipflops/cargoshorts combo.
And then when he's seated with his legs crossed - a long stretch of spindly shins exposed for passers-by to enjoy.
Oh yeah, that's a great look.
to: Sarto
from: anon 12:16 and 6:00
my apologies it looks like ankle socks from my view but since you have the original that you can enlarge i admit i am wrong. anyway i own several pairs of ankle socks i purchased last year in florence at la Rinascente.
no socks means stinky feet. always. it's gross.
i agree with ec10009. if you wear real leather shoes your feet will not stink but if you wear those shoes made of synthetic materials then your feet will definitely stink. these non-leather do not breathe and even if you wear socks with them your feet will stink. wearing leather shoes you still need to scrub your feet and between toes every day.
EMNH
Your right!
when I met Luciano Barbera (Lodovico father?) I think I scored big points for knowing the difference between rosemary, basil, sage etc.
Luciano talked a lot about gardening and golf
I wish they did a better job delivering the beauty of their lives to the stores that sell their products
Barbera should be one of the top names in the business and have a much bigger profile in the US
I'm usually a lurker. But I could'nt resist commenting on what Alice Olive mention regarding the Gaucho's. I had said the same thing to my wife last month. I thought Gaucho's were the ugliest thing I've ever seen, and I also thought the were unflattering to almost any body type. However, she wore a pair of Goucho's a couple of weeks ago that sort of hugged her figure up top and became baggy at the bottom. She's worn these Gaucho's before, I dont know if they shrunk or she gained weight, either way they looked great on her. I thought it was the sexiest thing she had worn in a while.
I have a Barbera shirt that I adore, and was in Naples last week looking to pick up more, but stores were closed in the afternoon when I was free...of course.
I like the suite with no/short socks look well enough if the suit/shirt is summery or sporty enough. I can't find short-enough socks here in the States at all it seems, especially is non-white colors...
Socks or no socks - he's perfect - the man of my dreams!
I think the no socks look looks great with a suit and I sport it all the time. Men can now by no show socks for dress shoes at many stores. Nordstrom, Macys, Johnston and Murphy Shoe Stores, to name a few all now carry no show socks made mens for dress shoes. There is nothing wrong with men not wearing socks especially since women seem to feel there is no need to wear nylons anymore. Be sockless guys!
I often go sockless with dress shoes spring through early fall. As with the current trend of women forgoing panty hose with heels, it works best if your legs and feet are tanned. The key to doing this with comfort is to sprinkle and distribute just the smallest amount of baby powder into your shoes. Great style, no sweat.
Un italiano vero!
But is it a style for everyone?
There is no such thing as "style for everyone". Everyone should have their own style - of course, there are guidelines that may (and, in many cases, should) be followed, but personal touches make the style look...well, like a style, instead of fashion.
That man, also, wears a very well cut suit. Usually, especially here in Finland (and, as I've seen, same epidemic is present in USA as well), men tend to wear too big suits with too long trousers and sleeves.
Thank you. A great blog.
- J
perfetto.
Great!
Very mediterranean. You can find lots like this in Italy or Spain.