Cathy Horyn's NYT Milan Reviews - What?
Today in Cathy Horyn's reviews for NYT covering the women's collections from Milan, she hails Raf Simons work for Jil Sander as "A Man Who Gets Women".
She writes "he must have spent a lot of time contemplating women" - What?
To prove her point the Times runs the three pictures below from the Jil Sander show, What?
Sorry, but these looks do nothing to capture the diversity of sexiness, gentleness and strength of the modern women I know.
The collection looks just exactly like what it is - a very talented menswear designer trying to figure out how to translate his aesthetic to women's while still honoring the reputation of a major design house.
The real kicker , though, is that in the very next paragraph she condemns Consuelo Castiglioni work at Marni' (and "female designers" in general) by writing "Why can't female designers create fashion commensurate with the largeness and complexity of their lives?". What?
Raf is the star with that collection and Marni and Prada get thrown under the bus?
Cathy sums up Prada by saying "the murky layers, and the metropolis backdrop, came too close to Marc Jacob's recent show". What?
That is Miuccia's fault?
Did Cathy see these looks from the Marni show?
Not only is this a new more sophisticated, sober, less BoHo-ish look for Marni but it speaks much more to the masculine/ feminine, sweet/sinister. refined/raw lives of modern women.
She writes "he must have spent a lot of time contemplating women" - What?
To prove her point the Times runs the three pictures below from the Jil Sander show, What?
Sorry, but these looks do nothing to capture the diversity of sexiness, gentleness and strength of the modern women I know.
The collection looks just exactly like what it is - a very talented menswear designer trying to figure out how to translate his aesthetic to women's while still honoring the reputation of a major design house.
The real kicker , though, is that in the very next paragraph she condemns Consuelo Castiglioni work at Marni' (and "female designers" in general) by writing "Why can't female designers create fashion commensurate with the largeness and complexity of their lives?". What?
Raf is the star with that collection and Marni and Prada get thrown under the bus?
Cathy sums up Prada by saying "the murky layers, and the metropolis backdrop, came too close to Marc Jacob's recent show". What?
That is Miuccia's fault?
Did Cathy see these looks from the Marni show?
Not only is this a new more sophisticated, sober, less BoHo-ish look for Marni but it speaks much more to the masculine/ feminine, sweet/sinister. refined/raw lives of modern women.
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post a commentIn know, it's like trying to keep up with currents in contemporary art. An art critic is just an opinion, perhaps a tad more informed. Thank goodness for diversity. I have a love hate relationship with the apparel arts. No wonder Andrea Zittel styled herself a uniform and wore it every day for six months, the implications being much more interesting...
I find these reviews nuttier and nuttier...like the attack on Carolina Herrera for irrelevancy. But it's all worth it now that you can actually hear Cathy Horyn read her work. It's the next big thing in spoken word. Check her readings out on the Times website "...Karl Lagerfeld's library of 100,000 volumes..." What I wouldn't give to hear her read Naked Lunch.
THANK YOU. When I read that article, I thought the same thing about Raf Simons' new designs. What woman is Horyn talking about? Those outfits looked so boring!
leave it to cathy to pick out the dowdiest and the least daring of things... sadly, she dresses like a middle aged corporate secretary. but i love her super-pretentious voice on nytimes.com ... and she lost so much weight recently... i respect that.
I think this is why I like your blog. I get the distinct impression you like fashion more than you like being a "fashion journalist".
That woman is just plain odd - she liked the Narciso Rodriguez Fall 06 collection praising his use of subtlety but if your wardrobe was nothing but Narciso, people would think you only had 2 dresses and as for evoking primal human heat - maybe if you were a robot and then she says that Francisco Costa took Calvin Klein too far from its sportswear tradition - that is definitely for the better I say.
Yes glenn o. she should narrate Naked Lunch.
i think that obviously cathy is an older woman and looks at clothes differently becuase of that. she doesn't really see that younger women think that these clothes could never compare with those put on the catwalk by coutless other designers who do seem to understand that girls and girls.
i too was puzzled by what she said about marni and about calvin klien in new york but that doesn't stop me from reading and listening to her reviews religiously
I am sorry but I agree. I like them. Time to put away layers and clownlike fashion
And choosing between the two I choose Raf Because marni looks like been there done that for the last 4?? seasons
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Fascinating take from Suzy Menkes. She and Hornyn attended the same shows, but in parallel universes.
http://www.iht.com/articles/2006/02/21/opinion/rmilan22.php
I have to agree. Even though I think she overestimates the importance of clothes--they are but embellishment--Raf's debut envisions a stronger, independent woman. Have you ever seen Gemma Ward look more sophisticated, or beautiful?
Has Cathy Horyn ever gotten it? I don't understand why so many follow her column.
I guess the difference is: some people love styling, others design. And some designers are stylistes, and the very best are genuine designers. And Raf Simons defenitely is THE designer. His focus is the utter design, not nicely accessorized, overstyled catwalk silhouettes. Though I looove and understand both brands.