Is It A Rule If No One Knows About It?
I've heard that it is a "rule" of menswear that a double-breasted jacket should ALWAYS remained buttoned. Unfortunately no one seems to have told some of New York's most stylish men. Personally I don't think it is a big deal but some guys get really worked up about it. Does wearing a vest make the rule null and void or is it a worse offense to wear a vest with a DB jacket?
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Easy and Elegant Life said ... (9:36 AM) :
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Anonymous said ... (7:18 PM) :
post a commentThe DB jacket must remain buttoned because unfastening the buttons completely destroys the line. (Well-fitted single breasted jackets, when unbuttoned, remain pretty much where they were while fastened.)
Is that Hamish? And if so, shouldn't he know better?
In the 1940s this was completly acceptable as the suits were tailored to remain in line and in fact they were called "drape" suits.
His jacket sleeves are an inch too long so other errors are to be expected.
Would you ever leave your laces untied?.......A DB jacket should always be buttoned!
Not only should a DB jacket always be buttoned, but he shouldn't be wearing a vest with it. The whole point of a DB is that it acts as both vest and jacket.
No vest with a db jacket. And they look sloppy unbuttoned.
I love this look unbuttoned or buttoned. It reminds me of old-world Italian style.
I think it's saucy.
Rules only exist so people who are not fashionably oriented have an easier time fumbling in the dark. Do you think Hamish Bowles worries about mixing black and brown? Stop nitpicking.
Rules aside, his sleeve length is perfect. As a fledgling sartorialist and student tailor, I always aim for my sleeves to hit halfway between the "start" of my hand and the base of my thumb, an inch shorter and he would be exposing a gnarley wrist bone and would be mistaken for one of those Thom Browne fools.
The three piece DB was once a staple before central heating. And, it will allow Mr. Bowles to remove his jacket in the office and still be somewhat dressed.
Me? I can always use more pockets. Would I wear it unbuttoned? Probably not. I look slimmer buttoned up and that is a big point of my tailored clothing.
Vests are absolutely appropriate with a DB. There is no rule against them and the effect can be quite striking. Take Karl Matthews at A&S: he is almost always in a vested DB and is one of the best dressed men on the Row. One might take issue with the lapels on the vest, but not the vest itself.
It should be worn buttoned, though, but if you look at pictures of Luca de Montezemolo, you'll see him in unbuttoned DBs. He looks incredible.