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The Italian Fit? Try A Back Dart


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Thursday, August 05, 2010

The Italian Fit? Try A Back Dart

What makes Italians looks so slim?

What helps them look so refined when casually dressed?

The back dart on their shirts is a big factor.

ps. also note how meticulously the sleeves are rolled-up in both examples

Comments on "The Italian Fit? Try A Back Dart"


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:37 PM) : 

don't really see how that slims them..but they look great anyways!


Blogger FASHION SNAG said ... (4:39 PM) : 

I love darts like that. They just look clean and the sleeves rolled up show off strong forearms.


Anonymous Gordon said ... (4:40 PM) : 

How do you roll up sleeves like that??


Anonymous fashionsdirtylaundry said ... (4:41 PM) : 

One cannot under estimate the presentation of a well tailored garment!


Blogger kramer said ... (4:42 PM) : 

That first fellow is wearing cargo shorts. No dart can save this man


Blogger Unknown said ... (4:43 PM) : 

Makes total sense and that guy is HOT


Blogger Valerie Friedrich said ... (4:43 PM) : 

Definitely going to have to share this post with my husband; you're going to be his new hero. He loves tips for dressing more like a "mad man." b

XO Valerie


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:44 PM) : 

You are totally right re: the darts on the back of the shirt. I can't stand how all my shirts have that ridiculous box pleat on the back that makes the shirt poof out so sloppily and makes the wearer look hunchbacked. So unflattering! Why can't all clothes be made like Italian clothes??


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:44 PM) : 

I guess it's best said that the "Italian fit" is for "fit Italians", no? Very nice.


Blogger beto said ... (4:47 PM) : 

How do they roll up their sleeves so nicely? I find it especially tougher to keep a clean look because my shirts are fitted.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:48 PM) : 

Is there a name for this kind of dart? I'd like to have my button downs tailored with this fit


Anonymous Sam Stephenson said ... (4:48 PM) : 

yo! where is this shirt from?!
Much love, Sammy


Blogger B. said ... (4:50 PM) : 

that's the reason why i have a big crush about italian guys :)

it seems they have a sense of style amyzing...always looking good.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:51 PM) : 

It's also the cut of the physique as much as the attention to detail...You can't beat the perfect cut on the perfect body.


Blogger CINCHED AT THE WAIST said ... (4:51 PM) : 

Sleeves are rolled to perfection. Of course, Italians. Meticulous way of capturing this, big fan.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:51 PM) : 

If only it were possible to easily find a shirt with that type of seaming in Canada. Around here, even if you can find a shirt with this fit, you're looking at a couple hundred bucks.


Blogger Unknown said ... (4:52 PM) : 

amazing fits, i (am in) love (with the man in) the first photo!!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:56 PM) : 

Ok, so excuse my ignorance but what the hell is a "dart" on a shirt? I stared at the photos for a bit but can't make it out.


Blogger Kathleen said ... (4:57 PM) : 

Yes, the Italians even in more casual mode of dress, are still "dressed up". Even the children. There is, as you say, a lot more attention to detail. And as always, I just love the mixed accessories. Expensive watches, belts, and messenger bag, with bead and leather bracelets? I like to see the extraordinary mixed in with just a kick of something you are not expecting. The men especially like to do this whether they are dressing casually or in a business suit. There is something extremely sexy about this mix. Love it!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:04 PM) : 

Wow. So nice to see the bodies of men. I've never understood the allure of over-sized everything in the US. If a shirt is well tailored you can still be comfortable. And exceedingly attractive!


Anonymous TMR said ... (5:05 PM) : 

It also helps that they are body conscious and not fat...


Anonymous Jennifer - Stylish Clin d'Oeil said ... (5:05 PM) : 

The detail i prefer is how they rolled-up their sleeves. It gives them a very smart look!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:10 PM) : 




Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:12 PM) : 

The back dart only works for those fortunate enough to be lean. And to get your sleeves rolled like that, you roll them before you put your shirt on.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:14 PM) : 

His outfit is so simple, yet the cut and fit makes it really stand out.


Blogger FindingFashionland said ... (5:14 PM) : 

Just look for a shirt with the right snit! its very Simple just dont buy it to big..



Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:15 PM) : 

Anonymous- See the two seams in the back of the shirt? Those are darts.


Anonymous dixage said ... (5:18 PM) : 

Nice pictures again! I really like the blue shirt, not so sure about the correct fit of the white one though.


Blogger Jessica Szeto said ... (5:19 PM) : 

very interesting!


Blogger Unknown said ... (5:21 PM) : 

the guy in the blue shirt looks great. the guy in the white is rocking some serious sartorial overstatement; that's about as close to "skin tight" as a shirt can get, and is simply too small at the top.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:30 PM) : 

Loved the first one. Very casual and ellegant!


Blogger shehstar said ... (5:35 PM) : 

I love darted sleeves!

Does anyone know what bag the first guy is wearing? It's really nice.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:39 PM) : 

The darts are not uncommon in North America. I have tried it with many shirts, with an inch per side but the shirt felt weird; back seems to be tighter than the front.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:46 PM) : 

The clothes on the first gentleman are too tight... it's actually not flattering or chic. It's a common look throughout Europe, but it lacks the ease and self-assuredness of someone who has a true (and not forced) sense of style.

Furthermore, he looks thin because he's thin, not because of a dart in his shirt.


Blogger Amy Golden said ... (5:52 PM) : 

The first guy is too much, but the second looks so so sharp!


Anonymous Simon said ... (5:57 PM) : 

Forgive me if I have this completely wrong but aren't these "slim fit" shirts? I'm in the UK and this fit of shirt is quite common to find in both high street and designer stockists.

If you search the UK branch of a well known on-line auction site (you know the one), and search for slim fit shirts, you'd probably find a wide selection.

As I say, if I have this all wrong then ignore my previous comments and put it down to excessive alcohol and tea consumption.


Blogger balsamfir said ... (5:59 PM) : 

Of course they look slim because they are slim. Our western ideal of male beauty historically is Italian, eg David. But they are also not afraid to pay attention to their clothes.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (6:01 PM) : 

even here in the united kingdom this is a fairly standard cut for a mans shirt


Blogger Alexandra said ... (6:09 PM) : 

Aside from the fact that he is absolutely gorgeous, I love the way he is dressed. So stylish and yet so masculine.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (6:14 PM) : 

@anonymous 4:56PM A dart is that stitched down fold in a garment that takes it in (there are 2 on the backs of the shirts in the photos).

Scott's point is that it's not so much about how "fit" the person is, it's the FIT of the clothing on the person. Of course if one is packing a spare tire, no amount of darting will really slim down the wearer...but take the same person and put them in a well-tailored garment (suited to his/her body type), instead of gaining additional visual pounds one can ill-afford, one can actually look smartly dressed.


Blogger Ivy Lane said ... (6:16 PM) : 

mmm..the darts are good.. but I think it's the bods in the shirts that make the shirts look so good!!


Blogger Unknown said ... (6:24 PM) : 

Perfecto !
-diary of a fashion stylist-


Blogger flâneural said ... (6:25 PM) : 

Wait just a second... those shirts HAVE to be 3/4 sleeve lengths. I don't see a way for rolling normal long sleeves up to above the elbow and not end up with a thick bunch of fabric.

There's gotta be some trick these sneaky Italians are pulling... and I want to know it :D


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (6:27 PM) : 

Darts, what darts? hot guy...


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (6:35 PM) : 

also help they're actually fit to begin with!


Blogger Pergolina said ... (6:35 PM) : 



Blogger a blonde diary said ... (6:38 PM) : 

they look so nice! wonderful photos..
I admire you!


Blogger mara said ... (6:39 PM) : 

i think the cargoes work well with the dude in the first shot.

italy....what a gorgeous nation :)



Anonymous Jack said ... (6:47 PM) : 

love it! It is so hard to find shirts with back darts in the states unless you do custom or high end. As for people asking about the roll up sleeves those are easy. the fabric of these shirts is quite light weight and so there isn't a a lot of bulk also they probably do as I do and roll them up before putting them on. it's just three fold up to get the right length.


Blogger Gregory Kogan said ... (6:56 PM) : 

I bought myself two shirts with darts in Barcelona and really like the fit. I wish there were more such options here in the US.


Blogger elizabeth said ... (7:16 PM) : 

italian men = most stylish in the world, in my opinion.


Anonymous Anna said ... (7:29 PM) : 

Those rolled up sleeves look so nice because they're easily cut a good 2 inches narrower than an American man's shirt would be, as is the shirt body. Face it, even an expensive American shirt is baggy, baggy, baggy!

A well-heeled and fashionable American guy will spend his money on a European cut, which is fundamentally slimmer than an American cut.

(Of course, we see lots of "fitted" shirts on guys who are so fat the buttons are straining.)


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (7:46 PM) : 

The look works for HIM. It's amazing. I'd really like to know where the bag in the first pic can be found.


Anonymous Matthew said ... (7:55 PM) : 

Looking for affordable shirts with back darts (or back seaming, which is a close second)? H&M!


Blogger Jonathon Pedrozo said ... (7:56 PM) : 

I love italian men! (L)


Anonymous O'shané said ... (7:57 PM) : 

The first gentleman looks very, very sharp.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (8:03 PM) : 

Hey, btw what are the man's sunglasses on the first picture?


Anonymous Richard said ... (8:05 PM) : 

I have shirts by Theory, John Varvatos, Paul Smith and Neiman Marcus with “darts”.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (8:17 PM) : 

Wow...darts. I bought an inexpensive fitted shirt without trying it on and was disappointed to find that it had darts in the back. I like the fit in the front, but am self-conscious about the back because you generally those darts on a woman's shirt.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (8:22 PM) : 

Darts are triangular lengths removed from the pattern - a little shy of the princess seaming you see in some womens clothing. To have them front and back is excellent. Almost everyone is narrower at the waist than under their arms or across their shoulders. Darts remove that extra fabric from around the waist and keep it from overflowing. I won't buy shirts that don't at least have front darts. With an hourglass figure, darts make 15 pounds of visual difference.


Anonymous El Wonger said ... (8:28 PM) : 

You want darts and a slimmer fitting shirt?
Buy a decent-fitting, plain backed shirt, then go to a seamstress and for about $15 or so, you can make a $75 (or less) shirt look like a $200 shirt.

You also have to be in shape to begin with, but the idea of just going out and buying it says volumes about what constitutes real personal style. It's all in the little details and putting thought into it.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (8:32 PM) : 

I would guess that losing some weight also helps to look slim... and not buying stuff three sizes bigger than you, and all that. The first guy is really thin, I'm a lot thicker and I think that would look great on me while standing up and then I'd look like a fool sitting down.


Anonymous William said ... (8:39 PM) : 

For everyone wondering how to roll your sleeves up like that, simply use the cuff as your guide. Roll the cuff back at the seam,then roll it up again, pulling it back to the end of the cuff, then repeat until your desired height.


Blogger SallyO said ... (8:45 PM) : 

The guy in the white shirt has a great physique, but that shirt is way too small! Look where the shoulder seams sit, and the pulling of the fabric all over his perfect muscles. And don't get me started on his nipples...


Blogger Lisa Petrarca said ... (8:56 PM) : 

Interesting! We usually only see the darts on womens blouses here in the US.

Thanks for the post...LOVE Italians, go figure, I'm married to one!

My blog was featured on a travel website-Check it out!


Blogger Cath @ chunkychooky said ... (8:59 PM) : 

Love the darts, love the bag, love that they had to of rolled up those sleeves BEFORE they put the shirt on right?


Anonymous Anamaria said ... (9:03 PM) : 

Most of the Italians I've known dress badly and the ones who try, they're stuck in the '90s in a bad way...Sart get over it, don't praise them!


Blogger Margo said ... (9:24 PM) : 

I must show this to my husband - he will love it. And I will feel clever because I'm going to do some of his shirts on my sewing machine. I'll blog about it then.

Thanks for the excellent inspiration!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:32 PM) : 

Thanks for pointing out the darts.

I just checked my shirts. The ones from Europe have them. The ones from the U.S., the majority, do not.

Now to find a good tailor who can add them. Should be easy enough ...


Blogger Meghan McNally said ... (9:41 PM) : 

Super sexy! Clothes are meant to be fitted.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:44 PM) : 

That first man is so gorgeous. Yum yum... I just can't stop looking *blushes*


Anonymous Sophie said ... (9:50 PM) : 

They're also very skinny to begin with!


Blogger KC said ... (10:27 PM) : 

the effect of the darts is more visible on the first example. the clothes should fit well too. too small shirts or tight ones might look like women's shirts.


Anonymous Well Done said ... (10:54 PM) : 

quite beautiful.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:59 PM) : 

I'm loving all the shots of the Italians - They all manage to look so stylish and do so with apparent ease. Swoon swoon.
Back seams in shirts improve the appearance of anyone's figure - even guys with 'tummies' can wear this if the fabric isn't pulled tight across their fronts. The trick with the sleeve-roll is to roll it up carefully using the width of the cuff as your guide, and doing the entire fold BEFORE it's worn. Allora.
Ciao, LB


Blogger Caitlin said ... (11:08 PM) : 

Agreed, but the first guy could pretty much wear a trashbag and my head would still turn:)


Anonymous J L Edward said ... (11:15 PM) : 

The back darts help to create a more defined "v-shape" in the male silhouette. Takes out the extra fabric that can be really unflattering. And ill fitting shirt can make you seem like you have love handles if you have none or make yours more pronounced.


Blogger BB said ... (11:53 PM) : 

Hello, Mister Man in the first photos. Nice to meet you. My name is Bex.


Anonymous Scoob said ... (1:02 AM) : 

Italians look slim becvvause of the cut - bottom line.


Blogger Miguel Ignacio said ... (1:18 AM) : 

Simplemente ESTUPENDO! Its amazing how you can creat a very fresh and causal look with a nice and fit white shirt and cargo pants. Course you have to add some nice accesories as that man did, like the belt and messenger bag.

take a look!


Anonymous Marlo said ... (1:21 AM) : 

i agree 100%...

american brands do a really bad job of not utilizing this... for that reason, i have to go a size down when buying american brands, just so that i can get that fitted look....

i wish american utilized the back dart more... i hate when there is extra fabric just hanging behind on the back of me...


Anonymous Red Red Rose said ... (1:30 AM) : 

They definitely look great!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (1:50 AM) : 

Also the armholes on these shirts are high compared to American shirts so there's not an excess of fabric under the arm - it makes the shirt less bulky and has a better silhouette. Well fitted shirts with high armholes are comfortable when properly tailored.



Anonymous EVA said ... (2:40 AM) : 

Italian are born elegant!!
But I think that the first shirt would fit better If it was one size more.

Shirts and t-shirts too much tigh don´t look good in my opinion, although you have a great body-type


Blogger green lantern said ... (2:43 AM) : 

Another thing that sets them apart from us "Americans" is that we like big biceps and triceps...this is in direct opposition to high arm holes and trim fit shirts. We tend to be beefy athletic, they tend to be lean athletic. As I get older, I tend to favor the leaner look.


Blogger Alex said ... (2:57 AM) : 

i really like that leather bag. where can you buy something similar?


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (3:28 AM) : 

Just say yes to darts! My husband has a few old back-darted shirts from Benetton... they're the best-fitting things he owns.

As for the first guy's look--there are cargo shorts, and then there are _those_ cargo shorts. Dio mio. Sometimes shameless peacockery is a very good thing indeed. :)


Blogger Liz S said ... (3:31 AM) : 

This shirt is how I remember 70s style was. There was the "body shirt"--mostly this was of a very fine knitted material but could also include those shirts of other material that hugged closely to show off the shape of the man's body. Back then most men were a lot slimmer so they could comfortably wear those shirts.

They are not such an unusual thing though these days--and certainly not as Italian as being suggested. I know they are easily available if you shop in the right places here and look for young guys fashion rather than traditionalist more mature fashions. Many young men work out and so look great in them. Probably are a bit more buff than in the 70s so even more appealing.


Blogger Diana said ... (3:32 AM) : 

ooooh, first guy hot. beautiful body.
The only "problem" with the darts (I love that i always learn new words through this blog), that they show every detail of your body, so if you have even a tiny little "swimbelt" around your belly, forget them very quickly.
Aaaah can´t stand starring at this hottie, Mr Shumann, you made my day! thanks


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (3:38 AM) : 

T.M. Lewin, the British shirtmaker, has some slim fit shirts with various types of collars on offer. Quality is ok -- of course nothing "Italian" in terms of fabrics.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (3:56 AM) : 

Anamaria said...

Most of the Italians I've known dress badly and the ones who try, they're stuck in the '90s in a bad way...Sart get over it, don't praise them!


Is that why Americans end up copying European styles 5 years after it was fashionable in Europe? Maybe the Italian-Americans you know dress badly but if you think these guys on the blog dress badly, I'm guessing your friends actually are quite stylish people :)


Blogger Nolita said ... (4:29 AM) : 

I really like how italian men dress!


Blogger Couture Coco said ... (4:32 AM) : 

WONDERFUL! The first man looks SO GOOD, he redeems even the *ugh* *yuk* cargo shorts.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:36 AM) : 

I'm staggered by some of these responses. It may be just a US thing but "italian cut" shirts aren't a new phenom and they are very easy to pick up from the UK high street in most stores.

To the poster who said "i don't know why it works but it does" - use you imagination!


To the poster who wanted his button downs like this, ask a tailor to do it for you, its an easy alteration, because traditionally a button down won't have this type of cut off the peg.


Anonymous An Ounce of Style said ... (4:43 AM) : 

Personally,This is how I always treat sleeves. If you're going to roll up, do it properly. Plus it looks so much nicer than a short sleeve shirt.


Anonymous F. said ... (4:44 AM) : 

The only way to seem slim is no food, gym and no food at all. However, I think is the way we grow up: attention to small thing is all.


Blogger Melissa Z. said ... (4:49 AM) : 

Love the look of the first guy! Cooooool! <3


Blogger Unknown said ... (5:13 AM) : 

Couldn't agree with Kramer more...cargo shorts are never OK. His shades though...perfect fit.


Blogger TheStreetFashion5xpro said ... (5:31 AM) : 

very very nice


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (6:09 AM) : 

Both men looking very round at the shoulders... Italian posture might need some work?


Blogger Unknown said ... (6:30 AM) : 

This is what I usually wear! (i'm italian too!!...sono italiano!!!)


Anonymous KJ said ... (7:22 AM) : 

How unfair!

Now the Italians get all the credit for, in my opinion, a shirt that acutally fits. Nothing special about darts/fits like these in Europe. (I'm from Holland myself.)

How to roll up a sleeve like that? Lol. Unbutton the sleeve buttons, especially the one at wrist height and start rolling...easy as...

Anyway, it's nice to see that many Americans via this site get to see the other way of dressing: buying clothes that fit. Perhaps The Sartorialist can visit some other Euro-countries for a change. Because nowhere in Europe are XXXXL shirts considered cool haha.



Anonymous Anonymous said ... (7:36 AM) : 

Beautiful bodies will always look good in this sort of shirt. Not such a good look with a paunch! The shorts are amazing, what a perfect length for these amazing legs! What lovely pictures to look at first thing in the morning. The sleeves must be rolled before putting on the shirts, surely? Julia


Blogger spore said ... (7:36 AM) : 

Darts are half of the story, but the look also needs higher armholes and narrower cut sleeves. Won't look natural any other way.


Anonymous Archibald said ... (7:44 AM) : 

Once again, it makes it all so obvious:

The fact that a well cut fit is alot more flattering than backpleats and vast amounts of unnecessary extra fabric.

The same goes for trousers, or as another strong style influence once stated: "The devil wears pleated pants".


Anonymous enrique said ... (7:46 AM) : 

Aha!! The secret's out! Thank you for sharing.


Blogger Mary Beth said ... (8:18 AM) : 

I'll have to try putting in back darts next time I sew a blouse but I also think the print on the fabric makes a difference too. Both of these mens' shirts have thin stripes, which is visually slimming.

I app-solutely ♥
my ✄ Fabric U ✄
iPhone app!


Anonymous Lee Oliveira said ... (8:34 AM) : 

I love the first photo.. he is very handsome.
Love the darts. i have in all my shirt.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:13 AM) : 

I think the metal watch stands out too much in the first photo...I think if you are looking for that safari look with the brown leather bag and the khaki shorts, a subtler, more military inspired watch would do better. The white shirt should bling the loudest. I can't even look at my metal watches in the summer, I favor my ribbon band OD green Timex (you know--licking, ticking, but not sticking!)

I thought about getting a sewing machine and a ruler to start darting a few of my balloonly favorite shirts myself. We Americans favor those annoying balloony shirts. Everything does not have to be supersized, people!


Anonymous Laurent said ... (9:21 AM) : 

Yes, standard and available all over Europe and the world, USA as well, you have to look in stores other than Brooks, J.Press,R. Lauren etc, Try Department stores that have European shirtmakers or look for "slim cut" that have narrow profile and fitted waist, sometimes darts. The lack of extra fabric causes suit jacket to be more comfortable, but if this tight, or with a few extra pounds they are very uncomfortable to sit at a desk for hours. The shirt in first photo is just too small, he's trying too hard and believes the photos in L'Uomo Vogue. In my opinion, the sleeves are rolled too high, two turns, that's it, and burn your short-sleeve shirts, throw all cargoes there as well,oh, ok donate them.


Blogger Unknown said ... (9:58 AM) : 



Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:59 AM) : 

If they would pull their sholders back, they would look even slimmer/taller.

Try slim-fit shirts, H&M actually have great ones for only 20-something bucks - not sure about the quality though.

Frost also have some good ones...


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:09 AM) : 

A good tailor can put darts in any shirt. The important thing is not to over-slim a standard shirt so that the shoulders and arms are too generous compared to the back and waist. Many shirtmakers especially in the UK make slim-fit shirts with no darting, which can be more flattering if you have a fuller frame.


Anonymous Laurent said ... (10:12 AM) : 

In addition... As to the bag in first picture: All over Florence and Milano little side-street shops custom -make bags like these and suprisingly (relatively)affordable, and last forever.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:18 AM) : 

I was in Italy in 2008 and to me they keep their body in shape because they don't eat big portions as we do. And they are not scared of calories whatsoever. I had a breakfast with a Italian couple on my first day in Brescia (city one hour from Milan) and they took us to their favorite place. We stood to eat at the bar and we di not spend nearly 20 minutes. The place served pastries and coffee and that is it! They both ate a single pastry and I wanted to try one of course I didn't...that helps a lot to be in shape, and on top of that all over the places I visited (Padova, Florence, Venice, Pisa and a big portion of the country in Tuscany) I saw people with a very sharp sense of fashion, and like somebody said here, they love acessories - gorgeous sunglasses, braceletes(guys in Italy love them), bags and shoes. No other society will ever match the Italians when it comes to style. Men can be hot and handsome and delicious anywhere in the world but Italians do have style and that is innate to their soul.
I am going back in November and I am rushing on a diet because I don't want to look chubby on the streets of Florence everrrrrrrr.
As far as the pics and both men...they are gorgeous and inshape so the clothes look stunning. Top notch!
I love both outfits and would wear both if I had the body for.


Anonymous kar said ... (10:58 AM) : 

Uh huh. Yeah, we're looking at the shirt darts. Every now and then you have a picture that stretches my belief that these are candid street shots.

The lighting, composition & posturing are typical of professional fashion shots. Combined with the subjects' long legs and startling features, who seem to instinctly know how to pose. Add to that the apparent individual tailoring for the majority of outfits that you don't typically find off the rack.

You seem to be in a land populated by professional models.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (11:06 AM) : 

I'm not sure if anyone wrote this in already, but they roll the sleeves up before they put the shirt on. meticulously! so elegant.


Blogger SartoriallyAddicted said ... (11:20 AM) : 

...the shoulder seams are also cut very high so the armpit has little material, creating a contour along the body.


Blogger Bell said ... (11:25 AM) : 

Why is it that your photos men are better than you do to women?


Blogger JV said ... (11:26 AM) : 

Also note the fortunate genetics of the two men pictured here.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (11:44 AM) : 

Yes, Sart - without the darts in his shirt, the guy in white would look totally flabby.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (11:48 AM) : 

in love with the first man


Anonymous Tom Henson said ... (12:01 PM) : 

you have never seen cristian cappozzos way rolling up his shirt sleeves
that is what you should call


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (12:02 PM) : 

Actually I still wonder how you guys in US can still wear standard cuts for shirts (for those of you who are slim ;)).

Slim Fit cut is everywhere, but actually you can fin from the better to the worse. Italian brands are above all, indeed. Have some great slim shirts from Valentino, Balenciaga or Romeo Gigli. You can find some online.


Anonymous marc said ... (12:14 PM) : 

also the fact that, unlike yourself, the men in these pictures are rather slim


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (12:16 PM) : 

The first example is a terrible fit, looks like he's about to burst out of a corset. Darts aren't necessarily needed to achieve a trim fitting shirt, much can be done through skillful pattern manipulation.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (12:19 PM) : 

rotfl, nipple


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (12:20 PM) : 

As a pattern maker and garment fit nerd this post makes me very excited! I love your blog because of the tech details you photograph so beautifully, that is why I love browsing it, I love and appreciate what designers do and I love the fact I can support them with my obsession with patternmaking and fits!

Thank you!


Blogger Unknown said ... (12:46 PM) : 

can they please make them here like that...I'm talking about the man..ohh and the shirt is nice too!! Phew Lordy!!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (12:52 PM) : 

I like slim fitting shirts, even on women, so that they do look slimmer.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (1:38 PM) : 

curious about the shoes they were wearing.


Blogger Ninjagaiden78 said ... (1:49 PM) : 

I have always felt that it is all in the fit. They probably try their shirts on.


Anonymous IS THIS IT? models review said ... (2:08 PM) : 

haha I'm a "meticulous sleeves roller" too! :)
and yes, these shirts are pure delight - perfect.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (2:08 PM) : 

The scar on the second man is extraordinary! wish we could see his face.


Anonymous honeybeeandme said ... (2:17 PM) : 




Anonymous Anonymous said ... (2:21 PM) : 

yeah great fit but totally unpractical for anything approaching everyday wear even for slim guys like myself.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (2:34 PM) : 

'Rolled to perfection' is a bit too anal for me...


Anonymous jimjims said ... (3:38 PM) : 

love the sleeves.




Blogger Maya said ... (5:05 PM) : 

yes! if only we paid so much attention to detail on this side of the pond...


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:42 PM) : 

Having recently returned from a trip to Italy, I totally agree about the "Italian fit" - the men there are impeccably dressed and their look is always well tailored. Unfortunately, the women are very much overshadowed, style-wise, by the men too!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (6:36 PM) : 

Anyone know where these sunglasses are from? Would love to know!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:36 PM) : 

Great tip! But to wear shirts with back darts you must be in good shape otherwise it does not work.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (11:19 PM) : 

yes, I noticed this the entire time that I was in Italy. My only question is does American brands such as Ralph Lauren make camices like this-with the darts, I have yet to see it.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (1:07 AM) : 

I love your attention on details


Anonymous ciaociao said ... (3:17 AM) : 

(on this pic ! the american version... well, that one i dont like.)


Blogger Jakarech said ... (4:00 AM) : 



Anonymous Anonymous said ... (6:45 AM) : 

Think the sunglasses are Persol - maybe 2944s?


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (6:46 AM) : 

Think the sunglasses are Persols - maybe 2944s?


Blogger Zaydoun said ... (6:51 AM) : 

I have that belt and I've worn similar combinations of this look over time... Compliments every time :-)


Anonymous Marco A. Calamassi said ... (8:03 AM) : 

x shehstar: the bag is ORCIANI. The best for "no-logo" leather stuffs in Italy and worldwide.

They also make stunning belts, also for women.

Well, the first guy looks great but it's a very very casual look.


Anonymous Duke said ... (9:00 AM) : 

Of course if you look like him you would look good in anything!!!
OR nothing...!!!


Blogger Pam said ... (10:37 AM) : 

Scott, I love how your experience in pattern drafting, sewing and fitting informs your observations. The blue shirt also has a nice yoke on the back which makes it fit very nicely across the back of his shoulders. Well fitting clothes on fit people - perfection!


Blogger Sarah said ... (11:42 AM) : 

It seems so odd to me in the USA to see darts like this in men's shirts. I instantly think, "princess seams! Women's shirts!" In fact, some stylists who suggest classic white men's shirts as a sexy look for women instruct them to avoid the darts of tailored women's shirts, which will spoil the effect.

I wonder if the shirts come off the rack like that in Italy, or if they all have tailors to fit the darting to the body.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (11:44 AM) : 

that white shirt is TOO TIGHT


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (1:49 PM) : 

Haha, I always buy men's shirts and sew these darts on the back so they fit more like a women's shirt. Men's shirts are just so much more comfortable and don't look as fussy.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (7:13 PM) : 

Hi there, I am a young lawyer living in London who is sick of the rather sloppy fitting shirts that are found almost everywhere I go shopping. Is there anywhere in London anyone would suggest for a excellent tailored shirt selection, where you arent restricted to the only variable being french cuffs. Thanks


Blogger ashley said ... (12:58 AM) : 

Ugh I've had such a problem with button down shirts that hit the point of my shoulder blades and then seem to "tent" out from that point onward. I never knew what the problem was until now.

Back darts it is!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (2:14 AM) : 

i'm really astounded by all the comments, not just for this post but for many other posts here on this site, where people would say "NEVER" to certain items of clothing like cargo shorts, flip flops, etc.

really? NEVER? it's so closeminded for people i imagine to be mostly openminded about clothing. here at the sartorialist, we tend to praise bright green suit pants and loud plaid coats, etc. so i would think they appreciate all sorts of clothing.

or am i wrong? do you guys only like things that aren't "mainstream" just for the sake of "being different?" do you like arcade fire because you actually like their music or because you just want to be seen as the type of person who would like indie rock?

let's not be fashion snobs. as long as the clothes are not obnoxious (ie. ed hardy, affliction), i don't see anything wrong with items like cargo shorts and flip flops as long as the overall look is not compromised, as long as it's done tastefully, and with fit/colours/patterns/proportions, etc. in mind.

my two cents.


Blogger Eilish said ... (3:17 AM) : 

haha , oh how i love the way those back darts make the men look. beautiful.


Anonymous mridula said ... (4:15 AM) : 

The guy in the white shirt look sleazy. There is such a thing as too fitted. The blue shirt is perfection.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:05 AM) : 

In Italy we use to say that this kind of sleeve "fa sesso" ! Anything is accidental



Anonymous CourdreMode said ... (11:47 AM) : 

Women's shirt have this type of vertical dart pretty commonly. However, the blue shirt is not custom made because it does not quite fit him properly. The upward curve of the yoke means he needs more length in the back. The fix is to horizontally slash the yoke pattern piece to add more length. It looks like he needs at least 1/2 inch in the middle tapering to nothing at the armsyce. He probably has a deep chest front to back and this why there is the distortion on the yoke.


Blogger Linn said ... (12:39 PM) : 

Were do all the hot men come from?????

I can`t seem to find them:)

Lovely blog you have ...


Anonymous Christin said ... (3:00 PM) : 

A question I turn in my mind for years!
I think that Italians look just seems to be easy, but is very elaborated (as seen on the sleeves). They always take care to wear perfect cutted items close to their body so the shape of it comes out. And they don´t fear colours. White is absolutely usual, which is unthinkable f.i. for german men. More like this! Its very inspiring, even for women :)


Blogger Aasia said ... (3:10 PM) : 

This reminds how I'm always after my boyfriend's life on how to fold his shirt sleeves. Well, I'v already mailed him this post link. :)
Great post.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:26 PM) : 

Let me see his face!!!!


Blogger Tristan said ... (4:30 PM) : 

KJ is right, most shirts in Europe are cut like so.

When I was living in America I could only find three places to buy shirts that fit.

1) Ralph Lauren (try the custom fit cuts, avoid the classic cuts)

2) Gant

3) H&M

Okay, not quite the fancy fashion houses that are mentioned here, but those were the ones I found that worked.



Blogger Bigio said ... (5:20 PM) : 

Amazing outfits! They look perfect!


Blogger L'Amour et la Paix said ... (7:37 PM) : 

Men in the U.S. need to take style tips from European men!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (11:04 PM) : 

sprezz'ed nipples


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (3:11 AM) : 

Totally with you on this one. In the case of the first picture, I think it helps that the guy is totally hot!! I think his hotness is 90% making the look work! :)



Anonymous Becca said ... (9:28 AM) : 

I think the fit of these shirts is sheer perfection. Also, the sleeves are crisp yet completely relaxed.



Anonymous Louis Vuitton handbags said ... (2:25 PM) : 

his bag is LOVE!
very manly and it finishes the outfit, what more can you ask?


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:56 PM) : 

these guys also look slim because they are not fat. i don't know that the darted shirt would help any of my softer, fuller coworkers look slimmer... but maybe... i love the look.


Anonymous Corve DaCosta said ... (7:22 PM) : 

love this


Anonymous shapman said ... (8:58 PM) : 

An Italian menswear salesman showed me how to roll up your sleaves like this. Pay attention:

1. The shirt has to be OFF your body (it is impossible to achieve this while wearing it)
2. Roll each sleave 4 times neatly using the cuff as a guide.
3. Put the shirt on and slide your palm down inside each roll to flatten it out.



Anonymous Ed Kavishe said ... (9:56 PM) : 

Great bag, absolutely agree with you on the darts, but i also think the shirts are also very well tailored, and another thing that most guys forget is to just wear the right size shirt, makes a huge difference.


Anonymous darlene said ... (10:18 PM) : 

I didn't know anyone made men's shirts with back darts--they're a pretty standard feature on women's.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:51 PM) : 

I wish I could look like that!


Anonymous Shawn said ... (2:32 AM) : 

I like his bag! Where does it come from?


Blogger waisted blazer said ... (12:09 PM) : 

Back darts - love them. They make the garment closer fitting and look particulalry good on slim men. Great tip shapman on on getting the sleeves like that. Long sleeves rolled up nearly always look better than short sleaves.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (7:41 PM) : 

Today while i was in Starbucks there was an Italian guy dressed like the 1 in the 1st photo, i remembered this post and i thought, wow, they really do know how to dress!
Love from Dubai (which u MUST visit sometime),


Anonymous Christian said ... (4:49 AM) : 

Italians like wearing slim fit you can see.
So many shirtmakers make slim fit shirts adding back darts (the easiest way) but only good shirts fit slim without back darts.


Anonymous SP said ... (6:14 PM) : 

Slim shirts. Not everyone fit so well. Great style ! And body ...


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (1:51 AM) : 

Of course clothes looks slim/tight if your body is not skinny and you pick too small size.


Blogger Yoli said ... (3:06 AM) : 

That first picture has me thinking of many a thing besides fashion.


Blogger PersonalShopper said ... (11:07 AM) : 



Anonymous Anonymous said ... (11:51 AM) : 

I think that the shirt in the first two photos is a bit slim for my taste but especially love the nail head fabric and apparent fit of the fourth photo


Blogger Unknown said ... (2:27 PM) : 

MEOW! hot, hot, hot!
Those Italian Boys of Summer are Sizzlin'!


Blogger Bojan said ... (6:57 PM) : 

This is a great tip with the rolled-up sleeves. Since I saw this few days ago, I’ve rolled up my sleeves like this and I felt very chic! I like to wear my shirts again. Thank you!


Blogger Nick Jenkin said ... (9:31 PM) : 

i love italian style, i just wish i could carry it off. being british/polish doesnt give me a great start in dressing like i'm an italian stallion.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:01 PM) : 

calisthenics can help your shirts fit better especially a wide grip pullup excerise for the V shape look.


Blogger Julia said ... (8:12 AM) : 

How cool is that!:-) Nice pics, great style! :-)


Blogger impression_soleil_levant said ... (10:17 AM) : 

the guy on top is the incorporation of pure sexiness. and so classy.


Blogger derek said ... (3:56 PM) : 

so much sleeker! I This would be such a benefit for skinnier people!


Blogger stephanie roberts said ... (9:30 AM) : 

my Huz is Canadian so he likes his shirts BIG and loose, but when we were in Italy i insisted he get a deep plum Italian cut shirt, he looks like a Roman god in it. It is a very flattering look.


Blogger ikanbilis said ... (3:58 AM) : 

i get my shares of Back Dart from


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (6:08 PM) : 

Mr. White Shirt is somewhat sausaged into that shirt - the shoulders do not fit him well. Mr. Blue Shirt definitely understands that good fit implies a good body - nothing smushed in and squashed with pulls and wrinkles under the arms. Yes, darts are wonderful things, but cheap garment construction tries to replace them with lycra - which just causes more of those pulls and wrinkles across the chest and under the arms. A true undersanding of draping, bias cut and pattern engineering is in order and has been missing for years. So sez the grumpy old lady who loves fine fit and finishing.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (6:11 PM) : 

Very slim look, though it would be even better if the first guy would mind to iron the back of his shirt as well. The wrinkles seem to be -in- his shirt.


Anonymous Rob said ... (7:48 PM) : 

For the guy in London looking for slim fit shirts:

Try Jermyn Street - I know both Charles Tyrwhitt & TM Lewin have more tailored styles, and they both have excellent on-line shops with multiple variations in neck-size, sleeve length and style.


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