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Do You Know How Much Collar You Can Handle?


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Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Do You Know How Much Collar You Can Handle?

I have written a lot about the "proper" amount of cuff to show with a suit.

If your neck and face can handle it, I also love a dramatic amount of collar over a jacket.

Again it is all in relation to your size but it does really finish off a look.

I wish I had a better shot of this but when i look at this image all I can see is that great collar.

Comments on "Do You Know How Much Collar You Can Handle?"


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (6:14 PM) : 

so much texture in this picture! from the wrinkles on his hands, to the stitching in his jacket and the design on his tie. phenomenal.


Blogger Asi Mod said ... (6:16 PM) : 

Gorgeously done! You are right about the collar. I love it.


Blogger Laguna Beach Fogey said ... (6:23 PM) : 

Absolutely beautiful photo, Sart. Well done! I'll raise my wine glass to you on this one. I love the spread collar, black knit tie, grey flannels. I don't mind the pairing of the dark blue & black here. A pocket square would have been a nice touch. Classic.

The spread collar here looks outstanding, though I understand many American men aren't familiar with the spread collar. I think spread collars look best on men with narrow head shapes. Guys with pumpkin heads should stick to forward point or button-down collars, IMO.

To top it off, this gentleman sports what I call a cavalry officer's haircut, or an aristocrat's haircut. Worn slightly longer, it is brushed back and has 'wings' at the side. Superb.


Blogger UESman said ... (6:54 PM) : 

I adore that type of collar. Some of my shirts (though I wish more) are like this. This high and wide collar is markedly an Italian phenomenon. However, I can honestly say that only a select few stores provide this exact kind of style. I often find that shirts marketed as Italian style, do not have a high enough collar stand (though the spread is certainly wide enough).


Blogger Pret a Porter P said ... (7:07 PM) : 

He looks so serene, as though he's very content that whatever is in his pocket is still there


Blogger Butch said ... (7:34 PM) : 

The collar, thorough large, isn't itself a problem; rather it's the collar plus ill-fitting jacket, which is, among other things, coming away from the back of his neck.

In any case, one want to avoid the Lagerfeld collar effect, in which the collar creeps up the neck.


Blogger CHARLie'S said ... (8:01 PM) : 

It's Edouard Vermeulen, a famous belgian fashion designer (for Natan). He has a great style, very stylish, very classic too. He dresses a lot of queens and princess in Europe.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:17 PM) : 

Is his jacket a three button without a top button? The lapel confuses me.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:18 PM) : 

great shot Sart

I have my collars lengthened by 2 times so as my 6'6" doesn't look too funny


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (11:37 PM) : 

I'm usually critical, but this look has won me over. The not-too-dark blue of the jacket, with pick-stitching and patch pockets, works well for him, and I mostly disagree with Butch about the fit -- probably the jacket collar has pulled away a bit from his neck because he's pulling his arm back (albeit it's not ideal). Personally I don't think the shirt collar should be the focus here; it's more the overall look. And I thought (or hoped) the silk knit tie was very dark green, which would be way more interesting and sophisticated than black -- Sart, which is it?


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (7:36 AM) : 

Are we looking at the same picture. That is hardly an ill fitting jacket. Sure we have some light cats whiskering at the button - maybe hes put a little (i emphasise a little) weight. But to say the jacket is standing away from his collar is nonsense. Do you clothes stick to you like glue when you move - if they do you should change your outfitter.
And Lagerfelds collars dont ride up his neck. They are designed to fill every inch of his neck (llike an 18th centruy toff) from collar bone to jaw. They have nowere to ride to.... Comparing this dapper gents perfectly normal (for italian businessmen)collar with lagerfeld's whimsies is like comparing a beautifully made pair of italian wingtips to platform boots.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:28 AM) : 

It's indeed Edouard Vermeulen of the Belgian house of Natan (!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (11:18 AM) : 

In my opinion, as someone other has said here,the picture focuses are the tie and the jacket. A great example of sober elegance in terms of fabrics,cutting style(the jacket has all the features of neapolitan cutting such as three buttons roll to two, high notch lapels,pacth pockets with a cut breast pocket) and colour matching (blue and navy).The innate natural elegance of the person adds the final touch for a superb result.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (12:09 PM) : 

Yeah, whatever. Collar, the length of sleeves under a jacket. Have you ever considered there are more important things in life to obsess over?


Blogger The Sartorialist said ... (12:19 PM) : 

for peachpit

You're right....pants!!!!!!


cuff or no cuff

cord or denim

break or no break

thanks for your helpful insight and push into a new and even more complex and involved sartorial quest!!!!


Blogger Butch said ... (1:31 PM) : 

Peachpit, it's not either-or. You're concerned with world hunger (for example) OR you're involved with dress details: that's your option.

The world is a big, big place and encompasses--well, the world. There are many choices to make--making one over here doesn't mean you can make another (and another and another) over there AT THE SAME TIME.

OK--end of sermon.


Blogger Butch said ... (1:50 PM) : 

Anon 7:36, thanks for the detailed critique...and I think you're right about my standing-away collar comment; didn't quite take into account the position of his right arm. (Though the jacket top does seem to be fit low on the neck.)

As for the spanning at the button; well, call it the result of the wearer's avoirdupois--hard to make a definite decision about it if we don't know when the jacket was fitted.

By "collar creeping up" I was speaking figuratively; of course Lagerfeld's collars are DESIGNED to look the way they do. Unfortunately, in my opinion.


Blogger OBT said ... (2:10 PM) : 

I'm a big fan of the Spread collar and I can't stand the American forward collars.

But it looks like he's wearing a Black silk knit tie with a Navy jacket...isn't that a no-no?


Blogger SEVERINO said ... (2:57 PM) : 

Yeah!!! Edouard Vermeulen c'est bien de voir des Belges sur ce site!!!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:15 PM) : 

The haircut (and his posture!) is simply perfect


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (6:55 PM) : 

Interestingly, every time I go to Italy (at least four times per year for work), what strikes me is the lack of spread collars and the preference for a slightly narrower, soft yet high collar.

Granted, I spend most of my time in Rome and south, so I don't get to Milan much, but the Southern Italian men do not seem to have a preference for the wide spreads often shown here on your site and also pitched as the "Itlalian collar" in US retailers.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (11:10 PM) : 

i can only hope to be this cool when i'm his age! classic and modern, all at once. up to date without dressing to young for himself. some people really just "have it" i guess.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:26 AM) : 

Gentlemen, please. I would love to know what tailor you patronize that would allow a photo to be taken of you, spontaneously and from any angle, that would indicate that your jacket fit perfectly at every point. I rather think that this is the sartorial equivalent of Heisenberg's uncertainty principle--everything can't look perfect from all angles at all times. (If it did you would know that the photo does not, in fact, protray reality.)

Look at the many photos of Prince Charles, for example. Regardless of what you think of the man or his style, there can be little doubt that the best cutters in the world at A&S are fitting his suits. Yet, in many candid images, the pants can look a tad long, the jacket puckering a shade here and there. That's reality--a place the Sartorialist has clearly chosen to stake his artistic and stylistic ground. And for that, I'm glad.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:47 AM) : 

an englishwoman in new york says those high starched collars remind of my grandfather, nancy mitford and evelyn waugh stories, all men wore them between the wars, now they are the domain of the very properly dressed. i love his blazer. It looks as if it was made by a very good tailor about 35 years ago and he's worn it every summer since. style in depth. what a charming, evocative photograph.i


Blogger marie said ... (10:49 AM) : 

That is a huge collar! I wish I had a swan's neck so could wear turtlenecks and other high collared shirts! :(


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (11:06 AM) : 

This brings up an issue I deal with on a regular basis. Maybe someone here can help me. I'm tall (6'2") and skinny (15" neck). I usually wear ainsley-cut collars (somewhere between a forward point and spread). I simply can't kind sport coats that cover the ends of my collars (undoubtedly because my neck is so small). Even a 38" regular coat doesn't do it. Any advice?


Blogger NAPOLEÓN DE NOTTING HILL said ... (3:44 PM) : 

Perfect collar. He is really elegant.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (6:15 AM) : 

jacket is beautiful.
I think it's a Boglioli Coat.
handcrafted and specially washed in Naples.

they also make Suits. perfect.


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