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How A Suit Should Look From The Back


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Wednesday, April 04, 2007

How A Suit Should Look From The Back

Comments on "How A Suit Should Look From The Back"


Blogger SUSHISTICK said ... (8:22 AM) : 

yea...this does look good. But then again...he´s kind of tall and has wide shoulders to help the overhall look.


Blogger Mike Paget said ... (8:34 AM) : 

It looks great, though I have to say it's possible he doesn't quite have those shoulders. An impressive fit through the waist. Here in Calgary it is much more typical to see blown out size 46 jackets that have been butchered to provide more room through the gut...


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (8:35 AM) : 

Dear Sartorialist,

I do not agree, as I think that the shoulders are to wide and clearly do not fit correct.

I love your photos, keep up the good work as I check your blog on a daily base.




Anonymous Anonymous said ... (8:49 AM) : 

Wow, this really is a perfect suit!!! Usually they look great just from the front, in stores I mean, and then you take a look from the back and all you can see is an army of safety pins and careful pleates, planted by studious shop personnel... Always such a deception when trying to find a perfect fit and being attracted a well-fitted model on a mannequin in the window....


Blogger Zach said ... (9:18 AM) : 

Pinstripes meet very nicely at the center seam there. Still, I can't help but feel a little bad for the fellow, as my hair does the exact same thing in the back...


Blogger will anderson said ... (9:23 AM) : 

really? i am fairly new to the sartorial world, but that tightly tailored jacket makes him look more like a woman from the shoulders...yes. the shoulder blades..yep. but that waist is a bit much. although in light of the glut of boxy suits available, i can see where you would point out a fella who went the other way. maybe some where in between? that's just my $.02.


Blogger Butch said ... (9:30 AM) : 



Blogger Alice Olive said ... (9:36 AM) : 

Man, there is just something about a pinstripe that drags me in!! Yes, very very nice.

PS: Like that he is 'flanked' by this season's so-hot yellow!


Blogger Jack Daniel said ... (9:45 AM) : 

ohhh yes, I am going to buy a suit like that, at the end of this month!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:05 AM) : 

Yes, indeed.


Blogger The Sartorialist said ... (10:09 AM) : 

I didn't say that it fit perfectly...yes, it may be a bit wide in the shoulders but he does have wide shoulders. Overall the shape looks great.

I would print a photo like this and take it with me when buying a suit as an example of the type of drop I would want on my suit jacket.

Again everything doesn't have to be perfect to use it to your advantage.


Blogger whyioughtta said ... (10:24 AM) : 

I think it fits the shoulders really nicely. What I'm not sure about is the flared-out almost pepulumish effect of the bottom part of the jacket. It's probably just the--whatchamacallems--venty things at the back catching wind.

Would be interesting to see a shot from the front to compare.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:45 AM) : 

It would be interesting to see the cuffs on his shirt since the collar shows quite a bit. I believe the usual rule is the amount of collar and amount of cuff shown should be about the same.

I do like the fit of the coat and wish I had that narrow a waist.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:50 AM) : 

I think that there is a lack of proportion with regard to the shape at the bottom of the jacket- it should flair out more. The pant fit also looks odd- but this may just be a result of shooting him mid-stride. The smooth line through his waist though is ideal, no belt line or love handles, etc breaking up the smooth tight drape of the jacket.


Blogger Butch said ... (11:22 AM) : 

OK, we're talking about FIT, not cut; you may disagree with the cut--perhaps you'd like the shoulders to be a bit narrower-- but, given it, the jacket fits the guy correctly, just as it should.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (11:25 AM) : 

Too much waist suppression in my eyes. It comes off as effeminate.


Blogger Unknown said ... (12:53 PM) : 

perfect fit!!!

if you do two things to a suit,
1. waist suppression
2. adjust the shoulders
*3. with a jacket tailored like the aforementioned, skinny pants are a perfect match!

very european.

i went to my boyfriend's office party (on wall street) in a suit like this. among all of the other boxy, cookie-cutter suits, mine really stood out. everyone liked it, but walking around down there, i looked like i was some way-out flouncy fashionista. odd how you can be in manhattan, yet feel like you're in the some backwater town.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (1:12 PM) : 

It seems a bit feminine for my taste. I don't think men should highlight an hourglass shape.


Blogger in defense of retail therapy said ... (1:38 PM) : 

the waist is very nice.


Blogger rnssnc said ... (2:09 PM) : 

i can see what he was trying to achieve, i personally think the shoulders are slightly off as well, which makes the amount of drop seem out of proportion or feminine.

visit and you should see a pic of the back of a model in a dark blue pinstripe suit, which i believe looks SUPERB and is how a suit should look from the back. i also think it's the sort of look that this man is trying to achieve.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (3:15 PM) : 

Perfect fit to me !
Love the narrow waist, very italian meets the new Savile Row.
Stripes meet indeed very nicely in the center.
I would definately go for such a suit ;-)


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (3:22 PM) : 

sart - i must ask where you shot this, i think this is my husband!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (3:47 PM) : 

Quite nice, but a little too nipped in at the waist. One more inch +/- of fabric would let the jacket fall perfectly.

Love your site!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (3:50 PM) : 

You don't think that the fit makes his waist look, well, a little *feminine*?

The way he seams and pattern fit together is wonderful, it's just that the tight fit through the waist with the double vents gives him a bit of an hourglass from behind. A single vent might not have, perhaps?


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (3:52 PM) : 

Damn, you're right. Perfect.


Blogger ep said ... (5:45 PM) : 

I'm afraid some of the commenters who find this nipped waist on a man's jacket 'effeminate' or 'feminine' would be shocked to see how closely cut European and English men wear their suit jackets. The tight, hourglass jacket shape is considered very traditional and very masculine everywhere except America, where menswear has taken on the character of shapeless boxes for the body. I have found it nearly impossible to persuade American tailors to shape a jacket this close to the body. So bravo to this chap and his tailor, as clearly this is an altered off-the-peg suit and not tailor-made.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (7:10 PM) : 

wow now that's an hourglass shape


Blogger 'signorina' said ... (7:36 PM) : 

I think this is a great fit - and yes, it does give more shape (whether that's "womanly" or not is debatable) through the waist.

That's why I like it! Why should men be blocks? Quite a few of them have wider shoulders with nipped-in waists. It's a body type on a man that I am quite partial to. Give me that over the rectangular man any day. Love this fit.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (8:30 PM) : 

A narrow waist is feminine? Really? I didn't know - I just thought it was a nice 'V' shape, the kind we used to go for...


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (8:35 PM) : 

PS: and thanks for the rear view.


Blogger Butch said ... (9:05 PM) : 

Astounding to me that many posters feel that a closely nipped jacket waist is feminine. I once had a tailor who refused to nip a jacket to my liking for this very reason. Alas, I capitulated and never really enjoyed the jacket thereafter for that reason.

The question is not nipped closely versus not, but whether the wearer looks COMFORTABLE in his jacket, no matter the waist.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:56 PM) : 

i wanna see the front!! is he cute? haha!

that's what a good suit should do for a man...


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:57 PM) : 

This is a stunning suit.


Blogger Asi Mod said ... (12:06 AM) : 

Nice cut on the suit! Nice behind on the dude. :-)


Blogger Elizabeth said ... (7:25 AM) : 

Yes, no joke; too many suits have those little ripply wrinkles across the upper back, signifying an inferior tailoring job. This is perfect.


Blogger Stratos Bacalis said ... (8:21 AM) : 

I love this...the V shape works well for tall people but not for short ones though - except i they're slim. Pinstripes look great too!


Blogger Stratos Bacalis said ... (8:23 AM) : 

My Emporio Armani is nipped at the waist almost like this jacket - italians always know best!


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:23 AM) : 

The comment about the fit are interesting. This is obviously a young guy with big shoulders and a slim waist. The fit on the shoulders is fine, if the suit was too big the extremities of the shoulders would be slipping down his arms. They are not. The degree of waist nipping is a matter of personal taste, but surely we all want some shaping, why else do we fight the onset of the big gut. This doesn't seem particularly excessive, just a young fit guy revelling in his physique. A couple of posters have also commented on the smoothness of the back. This again is something of a matter of taste and comfort. Many people like a little bit of fullness in the back, not the Appalachians, so they can move their arms comfortably. There doesn't appear to much with this suit, but it's hard to tell. Overall a great looking back.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:26 AM) : 

one more vote for "too tight in the waist".


Blogger 57th & 2nd said ... (9:27 AM) : 

This is the way a suit should look. Very nice Silhouette. Though his shoulder area is a tad bit baggy, however men should not fear to take in their suits. One should always wear his suit, not let his suit wear him.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (7:25 AM) : 

I somewhat disagree - it's not a perfect fit.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (11:28 PM) : 

anyone else think the thighs/legs of the trousers are a bit flappy/baggy for such a closely tailored jacket?


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:26 PM) : 

This suit is no doubt a very expensive and well-made one (a la Paul Stuart). However, the fit of the back is a bit to suppressed for my tastes. The jacket should not hug the entire upper body and torso so much. It makes the wearer look like the jacket has a built-in corset.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:36 PM) : 

I thought you only saw such an exaggerated look in drawings. Yes, the suit fits the contours of the body. When a man has such prominent hips, however, he would do well to engage in a little sartorial trickery.


Anonymous Vic said ... (8:49 PM) : 

Have your finger touch the spot where the butt and thigh meet. Then add one or one half more inche(s) to make it look balanced. I have over 1500 suits and I have it done this way. I am 5'9" and 46R. 31.5 is the minimal and 32 is the max. Anything below or above that is not going to look balanced on me. It took me 5 years to do it right.


Anonymous Anonymous said ... (3:57 AM) : 

Who put together this sand bag ensemble. Do any of you see a European tailor once a month. This was probably bought at mens wearhouse. Seriously


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