Seize sur Vingt Shoulder
click on image to enlarge
Menswear is all about the little details
I was at Seize sur Vingt the other day and could not stop admiring the great soft shoulder jackets that they do.
As you see in the photo - the two jackets on the right are the typical American shoulder jackets but the two on the left are the soft shoulder jackets, they almost look like the shoulder of a shirt and can be as comfortable.
This type of shoulder is not exclusive to Seize sur Vingt but they they certainly offer one of the best versions of it in New York.
Notice the little puckering at the sleeve cap - the actual sleeve piece is bigger than the opening of the armhole so the extra fabric has to be eased into the space. The tailor tries to easy most of the extra fabric into the top of the sleeve cap so as to give your shoulder a little extra room.
that is the kind of jacket that was made to travel in.
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post a commentGreat colors, too...
An interesting attempt at the Neapolitan shoulder. I'm not sure I would recommend abusing those jackets through travel; the fabrics don't look particularly resilient or crease resistant.
Such a beautiful photo! And beautiful jackets, too, of course.
The orange is great.
Your description of the sleeve reminds me of my Junior High days when girls took sewing. The set-in sleeve was a major hurtle. Getting that gathered sleeve into the bodice without leaving little puckers was a major accomplishment.
It's a good thing that these days I leave that chore to someone else. Maybe sewing class wasn't such a waste of time after all.
Borrelli and Caruso also make this soft shoulder with the small pleads. Its origan doesn't come from comfort but comes from a misstake by a tailor in napoli... By exident some tailor made the arms to wide for the jacket and thought he could mask it by pushing it back in too the shoulder, and thats how it became a stylish thing in Napoli and surroundings. The pleads don’t give any more comfort to the jacket. You also see this a lot on high-end handmade shirts! It’s a really nice mark of high end italian fashion…
I do so love your eye for detail - a true sartorialist.
There are also different ways of joining the front and back panels of a men's jacket that can soften a shoulder line. Instead of the seam going straight along the top of the shoulder from the neck to the top of the arm, it curves down and back slightly as it reaches the arm. There's a name for this that I can't remember, but it does give jackets a softer look without them going saggy.
I'm going to Seize Sur Vingt to look at these jackets. It's been a while since I checked out menswear. I guess I've been too focused on finding a dark brown leather handbag that isn't covered in grommets, dangling things and buckles and is smaller than a weekender.
Thanks, Scott!
I wish all your pictures were posted with this resolution and size!
to roseag--
home economics! i am convinced that to this day i suffer from PTSISD -- post traumatic set-in sleeve disorder. and there are no drugs for it either.
to jkrnyc--
have you looked at henry beguelin bags? stylistically they are a little bit more rustic than i usually like, but they are beautifully made by hand and the bag i have is very simple with clean lines and little ornamentation. but don't judge them by their looks alone -- the most amazing thing about them is how ultra light and soft they are, astonishingly so. i own more bags than any responsible human being should ever admit to, including a couple of seriously iconic ones by a certain famous french saddle maker, but the beguelin is the one i reach for day after day because it is such a joy to carry.
First thing I noted was the puckered stuff on the leftmost jackets. I thought it was bad tailoring until I saw your note.
Thanks for the explanation, although it would be nice to hear that the puckered effect goes away when the thing is worn.
mltt
The Seize sur Vingt shoulders also look like they don't have sleeve headers, which would contribute to the soft collapsed look.
This pic reminded me of menswear in France. A wall full of men's shirts perfectly folded with a rainbow of color! I would stand there and just stare a all the shirts, it was unbelievable the amount of colors, and so beautiful to look at! Simply amazing, wish men were as thoughtful of style here as they are in Europe.
mmmm handcraft..... it also looks like there's a "fish" in top of the sleeve... small piece of filling cotton placed in top of the sleeve...
lovely! love it !
Of the two soft shoulder jackets, the orange one has the ease worked in better than the olive one. Sorry, but it's the truth. The aim is always to work in as much fullness without creating the "pleats". The photo shows the jackets on the hanger... when on the body that fullness disappears. To roseag and positivelythesamedame...the tailors working on these jackets have come a long way from "home economics"...don't worry! :}:}:}
Sart, love your blog! Keep up the good work!...L
Ahh High end Italian Neapolitan shoulders- you see them discussed at the London Lounge quite a bit.
What is the price range on that brand?
the detail is beautiful
seize sur vignt. heaven in nolita.
Those soft shouldered jackets look very comfortable....like you(Sar) said for traveling and even for someone in NYC....lots of walkingg annd in and out of cabs, buses andd cars etc.
Comfort means a lot when the wearer is in motion alot.
I wonder how much these are ....considerinng Kiton's run $4-5k.
Thanks
Seize Sur Vingt runs between $1000 and $2000 depending on whether it is a jacket or suit, off-the-rack or made-to-measure. Some of the suits are likely around $2500, but I haven't checked in a while.
I believe Seize Sur Vingt uses an Italian company called Boglioli for their off-the-rack and for the stock in the made-to-measure program (they say "custom" although the use of that term is debatable). You can sometimes also find Boglioli at Bergdorf Goodman.
Their shirts also have the inset shoulder seam and are, I believe, now made in Portugal. Fun store, and one of the pioneers of Nolita.
That's beautiful - love this photo. The colours, composition, texture.
Looked into Seize Sur Vingt for bespoke - prices START at 2500 for a suit. There is a minimum 5 shirts at minimum 250 per shirt if you are ordering shirt. I did however learn that if you are spending at Seizur they will cut you some discounts at the second store further north on the street (the one that always has some gorgeous 1980s sports car on the floor)
Beautiful photo, and of course they have a great line. But does it bother anyone that the salespeople are collosal jerks? They barely say hello, and won't even look for a size for you, they just say "over there on the shelf you can find what you're looking for" sheesh!
prices begin at just over $2k for their "custom" suits. Most of their stock is one off and ordered for you, so you have a decent amount of input into the OTR version as well as the custom, i.e. there's no standard six inch drop, etc.
i'm very happy with ssv. contrary to bill's experience, i find the salespeople to be friendly and knowledgeable. have only had shirts made, so can't speak to the suit experience.
with the puckering over the sleeve head....surely if the sleeve head was cut in pressed open for a distance of about 5cm either side of the crown notch, this would be eliminated....just a thought