Window Shopping.....Bergdorf Goodman Men

The Most Important Strategy of Tom Ford's New Men's Collection.

The most important element of Tom Ford's strategy for his new men's collection will be the introduction of the line through a group of Tom Ford wholely owned stores. Ford will be able to control the customers first impression of his collection; this is so important. How many times have I read about a "hot new designer" and then had to literally search racks, rails, 4-ways ,or worse, a soulless shop-in-shop just to find a safe and underwhelming presentation. Not only will Ford be able to control the size and depth of the buy, but through all the little details of his boutiques. he will be able to clearly differentiate the new Tom Ford man from the Gucci man.

Lichenstein & Co. Tailors' Trimmings

Lichensteins has been in the same spot on Delancey street since 1903. I'm amazed how much has changed outside that door since Lichensteins has opened and yet how little has changed inside that same door. The owner still works the front measuring hair canvas, counting out buttons and selling shoulder pads for local custom tailors while the wife works the books in the back.

L'Uomo Vogue 1974

Armani modeling his designs for Umberto Ginocchiette. This is from the last collection he created as a freelance designer.

Is It A Rule If No One Knows About It?

I've heard that it is a "rule" of menswear that a double-breasted jacket should ALWAYS remained buttoned. Unfortunately no one seems to have told some of New York's most stylish men. Personally I don't think it is a big deal but some guys get really worked up about it. Does wearing a vest make the rule null and void or is it a worse offense to wear a vest with a DB jacket?

The Pictures Armani Didn't Want You To See...Again

I'll come right out and say it. Giorgio Armani is the most important designer of the 20th century. Chanel and Dior were masters but had no menswear; YSL another master but a minimal effect on what was then an emgering "designer menswear" market. No one before or since has had as much impact on both mens and womens design at the same time as Armani did from 1982 to around 1995. Like Chanel, Dior,and YSL, Giorgio Armani truly created his own design vocabulary.

It is sometimes hard to remember that, at one point, Armani was just another young designer struggling to create a name for himself. To be honest though, Armani was never just a struggling unknown designer .

Below I have retyped (from the English translation in the back of the magazine) an article on Armani that was printed in L'Uomo Vogue in October 1974. Giorgio had just shown his first collection (Spring '75) under his own label but, as you will read, Giorgio was already a well known and highly regarded member of the Milan design community. In the coming weeks I will discuss some of the other very unique elements that helped make Giorgio Armani into GIORGIO ARMANI.

In the meantime please enjoy the photo of Armani modeling clothes (nice twinset) that he designed for Umberto Ginocchietti and Barba's in the final collection he designed as a freelance designer. I will be posting more from this editorial in the next few days.

L'Uome Vogue October/November 1974 "The New Man of Italian Fashion"

This year Giorgio Armani is the main topic of conversation even if, when a definition is required, no proper term is available; Stylist, designer, dressmaker? No, either too loose or too limiting definitions. Perhaps the best definition is: the new man of Italian fashion, The man representing a new international establishment for our ready-to-wear clothes. No doubt, this is the year of his debut, even if, strange as it may sound, when thinking of him that for years now is going full swing. Until yesterday, after all, he never showed his collection with his name. He kept away from the show-window. He allowed his collection to be shown with labels of the firms with which he collaborated. But he could not miss a date with Milan, the new center of men’s fashion. Finally he decided: he joined all his collections and introduced himself personally in the halls of the extremely old Carminati restaurant in the Piazza del Duomo for the spring dress rehearsal

Style Profile...Massimo Caronna

Massimo Caronna is the owner IMC Group, one of New York's leading distributors of Italian luxury brands. Massimo is one of "those" Italians, born with a natural panache for great style. He has already built a successful American business with top tier retailers for Brunello Cucinelli, and is currently working his magic on newer Italian brands like P Zero for Pirelli, Boglioli, Coat, and Roda. Trust me, you will be seeing more about these brands soon on The Sartorialist. Massimo will also be deeply involved with Michael Bastian's (former Fashion Director Bergdorf Men's) recently announced men's collection. The Sartorialist asked Massimo about his personal style.

Must have items for FW05?
Cashmere Garment-Washed Jacket

Favorite store?
Bergdorf Goodman

Style icon?
Giorgio Armani

Most cherished item?
Vintage watch

Favorite fashiony movie?
American Gigolo, The Aviator, Cotton Club

Describe your personal style?
Sporty chic

Most stylish city?
Milano

Favorite fashion magazine?
Mens Cargo, Harper's Bazaar

Cologne and skin care?
Comme de Garcon 2

Lismore Hosiery...Lower East Side, New York

This store is still open..occasionally.

Brunello Cucinelli Resort 2005/6 Preview

I stopped by the Cucinelli showroom the other day for a Resort '05/06 preview. I am a really big fan of Cucinelli's brand of casual elegence and this Resort collection just gives me more of the same. Cucinelli is focusing on the "little twists", I loved the linen sportcoat with all the great quality details and the completely quirky suede elbow patches. Another standout was the "soft" dress shirts with the "only I know" contrast binding at the neck.

The Orchestra Leader...West Village, New York

Michael is the leader of the Blue Orchid Dance Orchestra. I hardly ever stop someone on the street and ask to take their photo but how could I pass this up!